[Regia-NA] Silk

[list-regia-na@lig.net]

And thanks for writing this too, Carolyn/Þóra!

And speaking of silk, do you have any specific information on the silk
reliquary pouch found in Jorvik?  I'm hoping to make one as a small
spinning/weaving project.  The only source I've got is Richard Hall's The
Viking Dig, which is limited.  (Time to buy the Coppergate Textiles book!)

Thanks,
charlotte mayhew



----- Original Message -----
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To: <list-regia-na@lig.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2003 11:24 AM
Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Silk


> Just a few tweaks to what Joy wrote:
>
> >Silk, I think, was very rare in Anglo-Saxon England
>
> Quite true, but more common in some locations and periods than in
> others.  For example, in "my" period, 4B at Jorvik (i.e., the one I've
> researched the most), silk is a surprisingly frequent find.  Most silk
> textiles in the period were elaborate and reserved to ecclesiastical use,
> whereas at Jorvik and some of the other urban sites (e.g., Lincoln and
> Winchester) can be found tabby silk textiles, silk ribbons and/or silk
> tablet weaving in addition to the more elaborate textiles.
>
> >More likely, you would have seen silk threads for embroidery or tablet
> >weaving. Silk referenced in Crowfoot or Bender-Jorgensen indicate an "I"
> >twist to the threads.
>
> A variety of twist directions are used on the Jorvik silks, of which by
far
> the most common in sheer weight of cloth is the Z/I variant.  That is, the
> warp is Z-twisted reeled silk while the weft is untwisted reeled silk
(also
> called "tram," and a lot of other names).  Other variants found in lesser
> numbers at Jorvik are Z/Z, S/S (on the ribbons), and S/I (the reliquary
> lining).
>
> Generally speaking, the silks used for medieval tablet weaving are
> typically 2-ply reeled silk, i.e., organzine or something like it.
>
> >Real raw silk is silk that still has the sericin (gum) in it.
>
> There's a contemporary silk I/I tabby from Birka of this variety.
>
> >What is sometimes called raw silk is really silk noil which, as I said
> >above, is waste silk. Silk noil fabrics are rough and textured looking
> >with a tendency to pill. An unlikely product in Anglo-Saxon England.
>
> This type of silk, to my knowledge, does not appear in the west as a
> commercial product until somewhat later than the Anglo-Saxon period.  If
> it's slubby, matte, and has that characteristic smell we associate with
> silk, it's not right.
>
> >Thora - please add your comments!!!!
>
> If you're talking about the kind of silk textile to which a layperson
might
> have access, then you'd be looking for a glossy plain tabby weave
> textile.  So, absent any other concerns, the shiny textile Leif has is
> definitely better than the matte one.  However, in addition to the usual
> considerations of surface appearance and colour, you also want to make
sure
> the thread count isn't too fine.  Anna Muthesius talks about the wefts of
> these and related silk tabbies all running about 0.5mm in diameter, which
> is somewhat thicker than the threads used on modern "China" or "habotai"
> silks.  You're better off with a taffeta or broadcloth type silk than one
> of those lovely floaty fine ones.
>
> The next important consideration is how to use the silk properly.  If
> you're making a woman's cap, or a reliquary pouch, or narrow trimmings for
> clothing, then you're all right.  Anything beyond that and you begin to
> slide down the slippery slope. ;>
>
>
> Carolyn Priest-Dorman              Þóra Sharptooth
>   http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/thora.html
>
>
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