[Regia-NA] Making Fire
Yolli
list-regia-na@lig.net
Thu, 13 Mar 2003 11:00:31 -0000
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Dear Lori,
As my name has cropped up a number of times regarding tents - yes tents, =
the beastly subject, I'll try and fill in a blank regarding the red tent =
bit. I recall it as having been included as an item in Wynflaed's will =
- I hope that's correct. All that is said is that she was bequeathing =
her red tent. That's all.
My personal Vike tent is red ochre now when it had been previously =
battered white cotton canvas. Jeanie Johnson has seen it in action at =
Gloucester. The reason for the choice of red is the will account and =
that the red ochre is a very cheap colour and paint to produce in =
volume. There are other good earth colours, and we are blessed by the =
fact that they can be still be found just north west of Bristol waiting =
to be dug from the earth.
We do suffer from a 'sea' of white canvas tents - but it will get better =
with time.
Anyway, onto starting fires.
This comes from a previous posting of mine.
What is needed is a method to trap and propagate the weak and =
'vulnerable
spark - and from there go to tinder to actually combust into a small =
fire.
The slice of Tinder Fungus just does the first bit - otherwise the =
valuable
and 'difficult to get' fungus it will be used up carelessly. As the =
fungus
is dense, it burns fairly slowly but incessantly. The actual tinder such =
as
Reed Mace head is less dense and has a good source of air to get it =
going
and fed well with new gas as the heat increases. And with a little =
coaxing,
bingo, burnt hands. Hence I am very parsimonious with the fungus and
extinguish any spark on the fungus ASAP, as soon as the tinder proper is
going.
Punk I put into the latter department - charred linen, the former.
I'm quite handy even if I say so myself with a bow powered fire drill. =
Now
that one can be a real sod even in ideal conditions.
The real trick is to have a fairly new piece of flint - that is freshly =
broken from the core. Flint is hydroscopic and like the word says, sucks =
up water from the environment. However, I have flints that are 10 years =
old and they seem to behave even though they are stored outside in a =
shed. I would go for a flattish slice rather than a struck core section =
- as the abrupt edge is what you will need to strike sparks from.
The strike-a-light as has been mentioned needs to be made from old tool =
steel for its carbon content. Once forged, ( and not too large as you =
can't generate a spark from the steel otherwise ), it will need to be =
tempered etc. I get the whole thing bright orange and quench the =
striking edge momentarily, pause, then quench the rest as it begins to =
go dull red.
Then set about a piece of flint and see how well it creates sparks - =
hopefully alls well.
The fungus needs to be sliced thinly to around 1/4 and 1/8 thick - or =
4mm if you can. Then I beat it gently on the central area of the fungus =
with a hammer to soften it. It should now look like suede a bit.
Pull off a small piece and place it near the striking edge on the flint =
and start creating sparks with the strike-a-light. Once you get sparks ( =
hopefully you are sweeping the strike-a-light down across the edge of =
the flint ), they should be scattering both up and down from the strike =
point. Luck has a certain amount to do with this - but with a little =
skill a spark will hop up from the flint an nestle onto the fungus. The =
furry 'suede' effect will coax it instantly to singe and start a little =
fire. A little huff may be necessary to get it hot.
Now's the time to offer it up to your general tinder. Reed mace head is =
great ( sometimes incorrectly called bull rush ). When that is going =
i.e.; plenty of smoke then add something like dry grass of shavings from =
a plane or spoke shave. Real Bull Rush heads or tops from Norfolk Reed =
are very good too.
All this can be done in the palm of your hands, but if you feel a little =
uncomfortable, you can make a bone hearth from a halved cow femur as a =
tray for all the combustible stuff otherwise in your hands. You can use =
this to somewhat direct a lungfull of air to get it really going before =
emptying it into the rest of your fire. As the other contributors have =
already said, do get the rest of your sticks sorted beforehand - fuzzier =
the better.
I hope this lights your fire!=20
It had to be said. ;-)
Roll.
----- Original Message -----=20
From: "Lori Rael Northon" <lesseley@attbi.com>
To: <list-regia-na@lig.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2003 12:01 AM
Subject: [Regia-NA] Making Fire
> Can anyone tell me if there is some special trick to striking a spark =
with
> flint? I need a spark to light the petrol I've poured all over =
everything
> on this list! 8^)
>=20
> No! NO! NO! Seriously now, I would like to know about flint and =
striking a
> spark. I attended a Black Powder Fair with a girlfriend (yes, I do =
actually
> have a couple of friends - I haven't driven them all away!) this past
> Saturday afternoon. Both of us purchased smallish chunks of what were
> labeled as flint for about $.75. My chunk is a dark blackish gray, =
and hers
> is a sandy brown color. We tried scraping and striking these chunks =
against
> metal files, rusty steel, other rocks, each chunk, and anything else =
we
> could get our hands on except the "strikers" that were being sold for =
way
> too much money at the fair. And, of course, neither of us thought to =
ask
> for a demonstration of our flints while we were still at the fair =
grounds.
> If anyone has any suggestions or information they would care to pass =
on
> regarding sparking techniques and required materials to create sparks =
that
> does not include smashing the chunks to fine powder with a 5# sledge =
hammer
> or skipping the chunks out across the water or hucking the chunks at =
passing
> police cars, both my friend Maerhild and I would be grateful.
>=20
> No flames, please. 8^)
> Lori
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Dear Lori,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>As my name has cropped up a number of =
times=20
regarding tents - yes tents, the beastly subject, I'll try and fill in a =
blank=20
regarding the red tent bit. I recall it as having been included as an =
item in=20
Wynflaed's will - I hope that's correct. All that is said is that =
she was=20
bequeathing her red tent. That's all.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>My personal Vike tent is red ochre now =
when it had=20
been previously battered white cotton canvas. Jeanie Johnson has seen it =
in=20
action at Gloucester. The reason for the choice of red is the will =
account and=20
that the red ochre is a very cheap colour and paint to produce in =
volume. There=20
are other good earth colours, and we are blessed by the fact that they =
can be=20
still be found just north west of Bristol waiting to be dug from the=20
earth.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>We do suffer from a 'sea' of white =
canvas tents -=20
but it will get better with time.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Anyway, onto starting =
fires.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>This comes from a previous posting of=20
mine.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman" =
color=3D#0000ff=20
size=3D4>What is needed is a method to trap and propagate the weak and=20
'vulnerable<BR>spark - and from there go to tinder to actually combust =
into a=20
small fire.<BR><BR>The slice of Tinder Fungus just does the first bit -=20
otherwise the valuable<BR>and 'difficult to get' fungus it will be used =
up=20
carelessly. As the fungus<BR>is dense, it burns fairly slowly but =
incessantly.=20
The actual tinder such as<BR>Reed Mace head is less dense and has =
a good=20
source of air to get it going<BR>and fed well with new gas as the heat=20
increases. And with a little coaxing,<BR>bingo, burnt hands. Hence I am =
very=20
parsimonious with the fungus and<BR>extinguish any spark on the fungus =
ASAP, as=20
soon as the tinder proper is<BR>going.<BR><BR>Punk I put into the latter =
department - charred linen, the former.<BR><BR>I'm quite handy even if I =
say so=20
myself with a bow powered fire drill. Now<BR>that one can be a real sod =
even in=20
ideal conditions.</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman" =
color=3D#0000ff=20
size=3D4></FONT></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT><FONT color=3D#0000ff><FONT face=3DArial><FONT size=3D2><FONT =
color=3D#000000>The real</FONT> <FONT color=3D#000000>trick is to have a =
fairly new=20
piece of flint - that is freshly broken from the core. Flint is =
hydroscopic and=20
like the word says, sucks up water from the environment. However, I have =
flints=20
that are 10 years old and they seem to behave even though they are =
stored=20
outside in a shed. I would go for a flattish slice rather than a struck =
core=20
section - as the abrupt edge is what you will need to strike sparks=20
from.</FONT></FONT></FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The strike-a-light as has been =
mentioned needs to=20
be made from old tool steel for its carbon content. Once forged, ( and =
not too=20
large as you can't generate a spark from the steel otherwise ), it will =
need to=20
be tempered etc. I get the whole thing bright orange and quench the =
striking=20
edge momentarily, pause, then quench the rest as it begins to go dull=20
red.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Then set about a piece of flint and see =
how well it=20
creates sparks - hopefully alls well.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The fungus needs to be sliced thinly to =
around 1/4=20
and 1/8 thick - or 4mm if you can. Then I beat it gently on the central =
area of=20
the fungus with a hammer to soften it. It should now look like suede a=20
bit.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Pull off a small piece and place it =
near the=20
striking edge on the flint and start creating sparks with the =
strike-a-light.=20
Once you get sparks ( hopefully you are sweeping the strike-a-light down =
across=20
the edge of the flint ), they should be scattering both up and down from =
the=20
strike point. Luck has a certain amount to do with this - but with a =
little=20
skill a spark will hop up from the flint an nestle onto the fungus. The =
furry=20
'suede' effect will coax it instantly to singe and start a little fire. =
A little=20
huff may be necessary to get it hot.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Now's the time to offer it up to =
your general=20
tinder. Reed mace head is great ( sometimes incorrectly called bull =
rush ).=20
When that is going i.e.; plenty of smoke then add something like dry =
grass of=20
shavings from a plane or spoke shave. Real Bull Rush heads or tops from =
Norfolk=20
Reed are very good too.</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>All this can be done in the palm =
of your=20
hands, but if you feel a little uncomfortable, you can make a bone =
hearth from a=20
halved cow femur as a tray for all the combustible stuff otherwise in =
your=20
hands. You can use this to somewhat direct a lungfull of air to get it =
really=20
going before emptying it into the rest of your fire. As the other =
contributors=20
have already said, do get the rest of your sticks sorted beforehand - =
fuzzier=20
the better.</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I hope this lights your fire!=20
</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>It had to be said. =
;-)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial><BR><FONT size=3D2></FONT></FONT></DIV></FONT>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Roll.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>----- Original Message ----- </FONT>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>From: "Lori Rael Northon" <</FONT><A =
href=3D"mailto:lesseley@attbi.com"><FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D2>lesseley@attbi.com</FONT></A><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2>></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>To: <</FONT><A=20
href=3D"mailto:list-regia-na@lig.net"><FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D2>list-regia-na@lig.net</FONT></A><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2>></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2003 12:01 =
AM</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Subject: [Regia-NA] Making =
Fire</FONT></DIV></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial><BR><FONT size=3D2></FONT></FONT></DIV><FONT =
face=3DArial=20
size=3D2>> Can anyone tell me if there is some special trick to =
striking a=20
spark with<BR>> flint? I need a spark to light the petrol I've =
poured=20
all over everything<BR>> on this list! 8^)<BR>> <BR>> No! =
NO! NO!=20
Seriously now, I would like to know about flint and striking a<BR>>=20
spark. I attended a Black Powder Fair with a girlfriend (yes, I do =
actually<BR>> have a couple of friends - I haven't driven them all =
away!)=20
this past<BR>> Saturday afternoon. Both of us purchased =
smallish chunks=20
of what were<BR>> labeled as flint for about $.75. My chunk is =
a dark=20
blackish gray, and hers<BR>> is a sandy brown color. We tried =
scraping=20
and striking these chunks against<BR>> metal files, rusty steel, =
other rocks,=20
each chunk, and anything else we<BR>> could get our hands on except =
the=20
"strikers" that were being sold for way<BR>> too much money at the=20
fair. And, of course, neither of us thought to ask<BR>> for a=20
demonstration of our flints while we were still at the fair =
grounds.<BR>> If=20
anyone has any suggestions or information they would care to pass =
on<BR>>=20
regarding sparking techniques and required materials to create sparks=20
that<BR>> does not include smashing the chunks to fine powder with a =
5#=20
sledge hammer<BR>> or skipping the chunks out across the water or =
hucking the=20
chunks at passing<BR>> police cars, both my friend Maerhild and I =
would be=20
grateful.<BR>> <BR>> No flames, please. 8^)<BR>>=20
Lori<BR></FONT></BODY></HTML>
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