[Regia-NA] Re: Making Fire
mik lawson
list-regia-na@lig.net
Tue, 11 Mar 2003 22:00:28 +0000 (GMT)
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As a precurser to Pimm hill,my suggestions to those of you going down the charred linen road {this is the one i know best having more access to linen} what i do is have a small piece of charred linen which i hold on top of my small piece of flint;the flint has a sharp edge on the side you wish to strike {mind fingers} & i strike the flint in a sweeping motion downwards causing many sparks & manical looks.IF,everything was held in place correctly you are now at risk of burning your fingers.The next step it to introduce a bigger piece of charred linen to give you a bit of time to get your fire started.
The wood,your fuel.
I can often be found at shows lurking around the wood turners feet gathering up shavings {hardwood is best} or you can use a sharp knife as a draw knife to shave some wood?
Next,cut some matchstick sized bits of wood & feather them or cut into them part way so the flame has something to catch on.
After those first 2 stages the wood needs to get progressivly larger.Preperation is the catch word when it comes to starting a fire,it saves on all the messing about if your fire goes out.Hardwood is best for fire & of course the wood has to be as dry as possible,not easy in the UK.
I once spent over 2 hours,a gallon of petrol & a lot of time trying to get several improbably large logs to burn at a show we did at Longlete safari park,i eventually gave up & went to bed after stacking the wood in a triangular stack.Just as i was drifting of to sleep there was a bright flare of light & all the logs finally burst into flame,aah well!
Regards,
Mik
Mark Patchett <patchett@sybase.com> wrote:I would agree with the "practice lots" suggestion.
Having got interested in flint and steel fire lighting, Magnus and I ( from
Wynmerestow - Ontario, Canada ) sat down to try our hand at it on Sunday night.
I have a flint and steel kit that I bought a couple years ago at Pennsic, which
contained a small firesteel, chunk of flint, tin with charred linen or cotton,
and a bunch of "tow fibre" to use as tinder.
After a great deal of work (just getting a good spark to land where we wanted it
) we managed to catch a spark on the chared linen, so that it just glowed a
little, then wrapped the tow around it, and with some blowing got the tow to
begin smoldering, smoking a lot, and I would say, just about on fire.
We didn't really have things set up to fully start a fire ( since we were in my
kitchen, and it was about 10 degrees below freezing outside )
We did manage to char some birch bark, and paper, but didn't really get it to
flame up.
( does birch bark get used as fire starting material in the UK -- North american
birch has bark that can be separated into paper thin layers, and which burn
remarkably well. )
Looking forward to more practice, and discussing things more at Shrewsbury.
-Edward
PS: the kit I have originally came with "directions" which I have since
misplaced, but the part that surprised me most about the directions was the
explanation that what you're really trying to do is hold the steel, and use a
sharp corner of the flint to strike the steel, and thus chip off a piece of the
steel, thus causing the spark. Also, the steel I have is shaped into an oval
shape, with one side open, almost like a "C". Having tried it a few times now,
I would recommend not sticking your fingers into the inside of such a device,
since it brings your knuckles rather close to the edge you are striking, thus
making them too easy to hit with the flint and slice them up ;)
Hrolf Douglasson wrote:
> I also suggest you practise lots. I have actually started one fire this way
> , the fire had to be properly laid ..with sufficient air flow to allow it to
> get going and people to prevent the helpful addition of damp tinder when it
> was too small to deal with such stuff.
> Ensuring ALL the tinder is dry is as important as getting the spark:)
> vara
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lori Rael Northon"
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2003 5:10 AM
> Subject: [Regia-NA] Re: Making Fire
>
> > Thanks, Kim!
> >
> > These are some really helpful tips. I'll see if my husband will pick up
> > some old files at The Boeing Company Surplus Store tomorrow, then I'll see
> > about grinding the teeth off the sides - I'm hoping you meant the wide
> flat
> > sides - is that correct? I don't know what you mean by "fire fungus". Is
> > that a type of mushroom that will catch on fire easily like punk wood?
> > While I was looking for information regarding flint, I ran across a
> message
> > from a Native American List where the author of the message said the best
> > tinder available in the forest was wasp's nests - paper wasps I'm thinking
> > and empty I hope. Since I don't have any wasp's nests but instead a lot
> of
> > linen scrap around the house and some empty cans with lids, I'll have to
> try
> > to make the charred linen. It doesn't sound too hard - watch me mess it
> up!
> > 8^) I'll keep everyone posted on my progress. Thanks again, Kim. I
> > appreciate your help.
> >
> > Lori
> >
> >
> > Kim Siddorn said:
> >
> > It's not that easy Lori. Roland can do it and makes it look as easy as -
> > well, an easy thing;o))
> >
> > But try though I might, I must put my hand up to never having yet set fire
> > to anything with flint and steel - although once I have a smouldering
> ember,
> > I can keep it alight and make a good fire in almost any circumstances.
> >
> > I know that the flint ought to have a freshly chipped surface
> (flintlockers
> > "hammer" their flints before shooting) and that the higher the carbon
> steel,
> > the greater the chance of getting a spark. Most modern steels are made
> from
> > bits of old files as that is the easiest source of HC steel. If you take a
> > sanding disc in an angle grinder to a file and take the teeth off two
> sides
> > without getting it too hot, you ought to then be able to get a spark.
> Strike
> > at a sharp angle, speed being important. Vary the angle until you get a
> > spark.
> >
> > Do you have and "fire fungus" to catch it on? This is the best material,
> > although charred linen is very good too. You can make charred linen by
> > taking some small squares and put them in a boot polish tin or other tin
> > with a tight fitting lid. Put this in the fire or on the hob. The linen
> will
> > burn until it uses up the available oxygen and then (literally) turn into
> > charcoal. Keep it dry and dropping a single spark on it will cause it to
> > smoulder. Cherish the burn with tinder & away you go.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Kim Siddorn
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<P>As a precurser to Pimm hill,my suggestions to those of you going down the charred linen road {this is the one i know best having more access to linen} what i do is have a small piece of charred linen which i hold on top of my small piece of flint;the flint has a sharp edge on the side you wish to strike {mind fingers} & i strike the flint in a sweeping motion downwards causing many sparks & manical looks.IF,everything was held in place correctly you are now at risk of burning your fingers.The next step it to introduce a bigger piece of charred linen to give you a bit of time to get your fire started. </P>
<P>The wood,your fuel.</P>
<P>I can often be found at shows lurking around the wood turners feet gathering up shavings {hardwood is best} or you can use a sharp knife as a draw knife to shave some wood?</P>
<P>Next,cut some matchstick sized bits of wood & feather them or cut into them part way so the flame has something to catch on.</P>
<P>After those first 2 stages the wood needs to get progressivly larger.Preperation is the catch word when it comes to starting a fire,it saves on all the messing about if your fire goes out.Hardwood is best for fire & of course the wood has to be as dry as possible,not easy in the UK.</P>
<P>I once spent over 2 hours,a gallon of petrol & a lot of time trying to get several improbably large logs to burn at a show we did at Longlete safari park,i eventually gave up & went to bed after stacking the wood in a triangular stack.Just as i was drifting of to sleep there was a bright flare of light & all the logs finally burst into flame,aah well!</P>
<P>Regards,
<P>Mik
<P>
<P>
<P> <B><I>Mark Patchett <patchett@sybase.com></I></B> wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">I would agree with the "practice lots" suggestion.<BR><BR>Having got interested in flint and steel fire lighting, Magnus and I ( from<BR>Wynmerestow - Ontario, Canada ) sat down to try our hand at it on Sunday night.<BR><BR>I have a flint and steel kit that I bought a couple years ago at Pennsic, which<BR>contained a small firesteel, chunk of flint, tin with charred linen or cotton,<BR>and a bunch of "tow fibre" to use as tinder.<BR><BR>After a great deal of work (just getting a good spark to land where we wanted it<BR>) we managed to catch a spark on the chared linen, so that it just glowed a<BR>little, then wrapped the tow around it, and with some blowing got the tow to<BR>begin smoldering, smoking a lot, and I would say, just about on fire.<BR>We didn't really have things set up to fully start a fire ( since we were in my<BR>kitchen, and it was about 10 degrees below freezing outside )<BR>We did manage to char some birch bark, and paper, but didn't really get it to<BR>flame up.<BR>( does birch bark get used as fire starting material in the UK -- North american<BR>birch has bark that can be separated into paper thin layers, and which burn<BR>remarkably well. )<BR><BR>Looking forward to more practice, and discussing things more at Shrewsbury.<BR><BR>-Edward<BR><BR>PS: the kit I have originally came with "directions" which I have since<BR>misplaced, but the part that surprised me most about the directions was the<BR>explanation that what you're really trying to do is hold the steel, and use a<BR>sharp corner of the flint to strike the steel, and thus chip off a piece of the<BR>steel, thus causing the spark. Also, the steel I have is shaped into an oval<BR>shape, with one side open, almost like a "C". Having tried it a few times now,<BR>I would recommend not sticking your fingers into the inside of such a device,<BR>since it brings your knuckles rather close to the edge you are striking, thus<BR>making them too easy to hit with the flint and slice them up ;)<BR><BR><BR>Hrolf Douglasson wrote:<BR><BR>> I also suggest you practise lots. I have actually started one fire this way<BR>> , the fire had to be properly laid ..with sufficient air flow to allow it to<BR>> get going and people to prevent the helpful addition of damp tinder when it<BR>> was too small to deal with such stuff.<BR>> Ensuring ALL the tinder is dry is as important as getting the spark:)<BR>> vara<BR>> ----- Original Message -----<BR>> From: "Lori Rael Northon" <LESSELEY@ATTBI.COM><BR>> To: <LIST-REGIA-NA@LIG.NET><BR>> Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2003 5:10 AM<BR>> Subject: [Regia-NA] Re: Making Fire<BR>><BR>> > Thanks, Kim!<BR>> ><BR>> > These are some really helpful tips. I'll see if my husband will pick up<BR>> > some old files at The Boeing Company Surplus Store tomorrow, then I'll see<BR>> > about grinding the teeth off the sides - I'm hoping you meant the wide<BR>> flat<BR>> > sides - is that correct? I don't know what you mean by "fire fungus". Is<BR>> > that a type of mushroom that will catch on fire easily like punk wood?<BR>> > While I was looking for information regarding flint, I ran across a<BR>> message<BR>> > from a Native American List where the author of the message said the best<BR>> > tinder available in the forest was wasp's nests - paper wasps I'm thinking<BR>> > and empty I hope. Since I don't have any wasp's nests but instead a lot<BR>> of<BR>> > linen scrap around the house and some empty cans with lids, I'll have to<BR>> try<BR>> > to make the charred linen. It doesn't sound too hard - watch me mess it<BR>> up!<BR>> > 8^) I'll keep everyone posted on my progress. Thanks again, Kim. I<BR>> > appreciate your help.<BR>> ><BR>> > Lori<BR>> ><BR>> ><BR>> > Kim Siddorn said:<BR>> ><BR>> > It's not that easy Lori. Roland can do it and makes it look as easy as -<BR>> > well, an easy thing;o))<BR>> ><BR>> > But try though I might, I must put my hand up to never having yet set fire<BR>> > to anything with flint and steel - although once I have a smouldering<BR>> ember,<BR>> > I can keep it alight and make a good fire in almost any circumstances.<BR>> ><BR>> > I know that the flint ought to have a freshly chipped surface<BR>> (flintlockers<BR>> > "hammer" their flints before shooting) and that the higher the carbon<BR>> steel,<BR>> > the greater the chance of getting a spark. Most modern steels are made<BR>> from<BR>> > bits of old files as that is the easiest source of HC steel. If you take a<BR>> > sanding disc in an angle grinder to a file and take the teeth off two<BR>> sides<BR>> > without getting it too hot, you ought to then be able to get a spark.<BR>> Strike<BR>> > at a sharp angle, speed being important. Vary the angle until you get a<BR>> > spark.<BR>> ><BR>> > Do you have and "fire fungus" to catch it on? This is the best material,<BR>> > although charred linen is very good too. You can make charred linen by<BR>> > taking some small squares and put them in a boot polish tin or other tin<BR>> > with a tight fitting lid. Put this in the fire or on the hob. The linen<BR>> will<BR>> > burn until it uses up the available oxygen and then (literally) turn into<BR>> > charcoal. Keep it dry and dropping a single spark on it will cause it to<BR>> > smoulder. Cherish the burn with tinder & away you go.<BR>> ><BR>> > Regards,<BR>> ><BR>> > Kim Siddorn<BR><BR>_______________________________________________<BR>list-regia-na mailing list<BR>list-regia-na@lig.net<BR>http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na</BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR>To kill & to kill again ; just to make sure!<p><p><br><hr size=1><a href="http://uk.yahoo.com/mail/tagline_xtra/?http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/mail_storage.html"><b><font face="Arial" size="2">With Yahoo! Mail you can get a bigger mailbox -- choose a size that fits your needs</font></b></a><br>
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