[Regia-NA] embroidery

[Carolyn Priest-Dorman]

Steve wrote:

>the Llan gors find seems to be a copy of a byzantine fabric done in an 
>insular hand (yes, hazel, it is single stitch embroiderd much like the 
>later "English work" style apparently) - all lions caught up in vine 
>scrolls.  So it would seem that byzantine patterns were in enough demand 
>for there to be a thriving "counterfeit" market.

I tend to think the Llangorse embroidery could have been inspired by 
foreign textiles in much the same way as was the Chelles chasuble, which is 
white linen embroidered with motifs that look like Byzantine embroidery, 
and some of the Mammen embroidery motifs were, most especially the lions 
and tree of life motif.

>Note that the method used in Llan gors is very different to that used in 
>the BT and the Cuthbert stole (so I am informed - I only look at the 
>pretty pictures!).

If embroidery, it appears to be in a completely unique technique.  It is 
entirely a *counted* stitch, rather a bit like needlepoint (I'm thinking 
specifically "Gobelin stitch" and its relatives), only worked on a fine 
ground instead of canvas.  The stitch gauge is tiny.  However, unlike 
needlepoint, stitches run in both the warpwise *and* the weftwise 
direction.  Stitches change their direction in blocks when a texture change 
is desirable.  It's quite remarkable!

However, based on recent conversations with the conservator, I'm beginning 
to wonder if it might not be something other than embroidery.  Some of the 
embroidery threads were tested a couple weeks ago under the SEM, and turned 
out completely unexpectedly to be linen, spun and plyed in a completely 
unexpected manner.  I'm beginning to wonder if that there's more of an 
Eastern Mediterranean element to this textile than was heretofore evident.


Carolyn Priest-Dorman              Þóra Sharptooth
  http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/thora.html