[Regia-NA] FW: Sheilds

Mon, 16 Dec 2002 22:57:05 -0800 (PST)

Thanks for the help. 
I am going to try the plaster on my next one.  One more question: we are raising our shield bosses and I am wondering if you have any sugestions on if the boss should be curved to match the sheild or shound there be a flater spot where it attaches. The boss is abount 6 inch diamiter since a hand wont be in it.

Tnx

Seathrun

--- "Nicholson, Andrew" <andrew.nicholson@dumgal.gov.uk> wrote:
>Scott, I forwarded you message to Seibhyrt, generally regarded as the Shield
>Guru in Regia UK. Here is his reply [[Any comments of my own are inserted in
>double brackets, so as not to be confused with his asides]].=20
>
>Gu=F0rum
>>
>
>Hi, Scott
>
>I make the occasional curvy shield  [[he also makes domed rounds, but that's
>another ball game]].  Flat kites are banned, on the grounds that we have no
>evidence for them.   The Bayeux Tapestry is marginal at best, and every
>other source shows them as curved.  The 2D curved "Oval" full body shield is
>a standard in the Byzantine army from (guess) about c8th.  At the end of the
>c10th someone had the bright idea of turning the top of the oval into a
>circle so that you could see over the thing.(well, this is my theory).  From
>
>there, the shield spread to northern Europe, until by the end of the c11th=
>=20
>it was the most common.  Harald Hardrada may actually have had more kite=20
>shields than the English at Stamford Bridge - he'd served in the bodyguard=
>=20
>of the Byzantine Emperor
>
>As for making them - well, the authentic way might be to get some planks=20
>with bevelled edges, glue them together to make a curve, and then carve them
>
>to shape to knock the edges off.  I haven't done this - it's just a theory.
>
>Making the things
>
>>I am using two layers of 1/4 inch pine plywood with about 2 cups of outside
>
>>wood glue between the layers.
>
>I use exterior grade ("marine") ply, which tends to be of a hardwood.  Can=
>=20
>you get it in the States/Canada?  It's sold as 4mm here, called 1/4" perhaps
>in=20
>your neck of the woods? Some people add a layer of cloth beween the two=20
>sheets.  For extra strength you can use three sheets of ply.  I cut the=20
>sheets into 2' x 4' shapes and bend them like that, to get an even curve.  I
>
>then, when dry, cut to shape.
>
>>
>>I am shaping them by curving the two layers arround a 55 gal drum using=20
>>winch straps with 1*1s on the plywood to stop the staps from leaving marks.
>>
>
>I find that the oil drum produces a rather tight curve.  I have made shields
>
>using a set of car jacks, but now I have a specially made frame to get the=
>=20
>curve just right.
>[[I have one too now, after jotting the measurements of S's one on the back
>of a cheque-book; its just over 4 foot long, about 2 and a half feet wide,
>and curved to a depth of about 6 inches.]]
>
>>
>>I usually cover them with cloth and sew leather or rawhide arround the=20
>>edges.
>>
>
>Ditto.  You can add cloth to the back.  Leather facing is more authentic,=
>=20
>but heavier and more expensive.  I use a mix of fine plaster, water=20
>and glue to create a smooth surface (after a lot of sanding that is!)
>[[Cloth on the back is really useful for stopping splinters coming through
>into your arms]].
>
>>
>>I use either brass or steel rivits to hold the straps and I put a 7*7 inch=
>=20
>>wool pad where the grip is to absorb some of the shock. They seem to hold=
>=20
>>up well.
>>
>
>I use "modified" 5" nails - they are cheaper and more availiable.  I=20
>modifiy them by heating them with a blow torch and hitting them with a=20
>hammer.=20
>
>[[Likewise. Also note that Regia kites - OK Seibhyrt, "fish-shaped" - have a
>small boss on the front, even though they don't have a cut-out grip]].
>>
>I have tried other woods but the pine hold up the best and the hard woods=
>=20
>tended to splinter while beeing curved or when they were hit. Any hints for=
>=20
>improvement to uses these with Regia would be grand.
>>
>
>Never had this problem.  When bending, make sure that you have bending along
>
>the line of the grain (that is, so the grain lines are running up and down=
>=20
>with the finished shield.  I've never had a curved shield split when bent=
>=20
>this way - perhaps it's because I use a slightly gentler curve than an oil=
>=20
>drum.  (The other advantage of using a frame is that you can pick the thing=
>=20
>up and move it over a heater for quicker drying during the winter)
>[[I've never had a curved shield split either, though I have lost two to
>wear and tear - they tend to last at least six seasons, given that they
>alternate with the round, depending on the dateline of the show. The 'weak
>point' seems to be about 18" up from the point, both of mine eventually
>being cut through here - but maybe its the way I use them ;-) ]].
>
>Hope this helps
>
>Seibhyrt
>
>
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