[Regia-NA] proper saex handles.

[Yolli]

Moooooooooooooore.....


I have been doing some work recently with flint tools on antler.

With a 'Plano-convex' knife blade, which has a slight saw tooth edge to it,
I cut through the beam in 45 mins including time to chat. With the same
blade I scaped the antler flat on both sides - it was kind of flat.

The only thing I needed really was a rough flattish rock to grind the antler
on - but the work wasn't too slow really.

Oh, I was making a harpoon head with loads of barbs by the way. A good days
work and a bit of luck will have most of it done.

Just for your interest - I'm making a polished flint axe head as well that
is about 8-9 inches in length. I'm about 10 hours into the polishing and
it's slowwwwww. But not it seems as slow as a chap I heard about who did a
mace head in stone who took 93 hours. I recon it will take me 36. I don't
know why there is such a difference in the time taken - I can only suggest
that it has to do with the grinding stone.

We'll see how it comes together.

Roll.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Tate William T Jr TSgt 352 OSS/SCSC" <william.tate@mildenhall.af.mil>
To: <list-regia-na@lig.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 8:31 AM
Subject: RE: [Regia-NA] proper saex handles.


> Chris,
>
> A number of persons leave the outside of the antler on, the grain provides
> good grip.  I have a nagging pull at memory though, that says that this
> isn't quite accurate and the trend in our time period was to remove the
> outer layer.  But I do bone, antler, horn carving, and almost any cutting
> tool can be used to carve designs...depends on doing it in a period
setting,
> or at home.  At home you can used a Dremel for quick results.  Remember to
> always use a dust mask and eye protection.  If you are carving on-site,
most
> any cutting tool can be used for the job (check the Mastermyr find for
some
> tool examples).  My favorite tools are actually just a small seax and an
> flat-bladed awl.  I also have a set of wood-carving tools that work well.
> Rasps and files can be used for smoothing, although I find running a
> knife-blade across the surface works just as well.  Something I have seen
> done during a show performed by a Superficially Similar Society, was the
use
> of a piece of flaked flint to smooth surfaces.  I haven't actually tried
> that, but will experiment with it shortly.  If you are going to use hand
> tools in a period setting, I would recommend a leather palm
covering...mine
> has saved me innumerable times from cuts!
>
> Bill/Leifr