RE: [Regia-NA] undertunic

From SchusterRL@umsystem.edu Mon, 1 Apr 2002 11:39:41 -0600 Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 11:39:41 -0600 From: Schuster, Robert L. SchusterRL@umsystem.edu Subject: [Regia-NA] Thegn's Test ---might I forward this question on to a few other folk to test their = knowledge? Halvgrimr ps. Douglas...how are the shoes working out for you? would you mind = giving me a small "review" to add to my web page? --------------------------------------------- Here's a question from a Wessex Thegn's Test of previous years: From ravenstail@hotmail.com Mon, 01 Apr 2002 15:59:45 -0500 Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 15:59:45 -0500 From: john none ravenstail@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Clothing sources....

Hello all,

I am wanting to do a Viking and /or Anglo Saxon portrayal, but don't know of a good source for clothing(tunic, trousers, shoes, cloaks, hats, socks, leg wraps, etc) Could any one out there supply me with some dark age sutlers?

My name is John, age 30(eeek !!! just turned) living in Greenfield,MA. Also interested have attempted an 18th C Eastern Woodland Indian portrayal and may strart doing a 17th C era one as well, . If any Saxons or Vikings are near me, let's have a chat, maybe do some stuff?

Peace--John

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From hollyf@swcp.com Wed, 3 Apr 2002 13:41:52 -0700 Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 13:41:52 -0700 From: Holly Fabre hollyf@swcp.com Subject: [Regia-NA] intro and weaving Thought I'd come out of lurking and introduce myself. I had always wanted to get involved with historical re-creation, but until recently I never had the free time. I've been having a blast studying culinary history, learning to make pottery, and just this weekend I decided to try my hand at tablet weaving. I put up a little page for my folks since they wanted to know what tablet weaving was and why I still don't have a job (we won't get into that) so you can see what I've produced so far at: http://www.swcp.com/~hollyf/weaving/ I'm sure weaving must seem mind numbing to some, but I have found that I really enjoy it. I would like to do some more, and perhaps try to make a simple loom, but where can one find bulk wool and linen thread? Right now I'm using cotton embroidery floss because it is big enough to be easy to see and work with and not too expensive for experimentation, but I'd rather use something more authentic for items I plan to use on a garment. thanks, Holly From brenna@robewarriors.com Wed, 3 Apr 2002 12:51:53 -0800 Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 12:51:53 -0800 From: Brenna brenna@robewarriors.com Subject: [Regia-NA] intro and weaving I may be able to help you there. I'll contact you off-line. Brenna B Sharp Fabrics supplying the living history re-enactor From asta@pclnet.net Wed, 3 Apr 2002 14:49:25 -0600 Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 14:49:25 -0600 From: Asta Jorundardottir asta@pclnet.net Subject: [Regia-NA] intro and weaving Woo-Hoo! Another tablet weaver! For thread, try www.earthguild.com or www.halcyonyarn.com - I have ordered items from both locations and the people are friendly and helpful and I have been very pleased. I think Earthguild might be having a sale now, too. They both ship fairly quickly. How can weaving be mind numbing? Addictive, yes; mind-numbing, no. But that's just me. Asta ----- Original Message ----- From: "Holly Fabre" To: Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 2:41 PM Subject: [Regia-NA] intro and weaving > Thought I'd come out of lurking and introduce myself. I had always wanted > to get involved with historical re-creation, but until recently I never > had the free time. I've been having a blast studying culinary history, > learning to make pottery, and just this weekend I decided to try my > hand at tablet weaving. I put up a little page for my folks since they > wanted to know what tablet weaving was and why I still don't have a job > (we won't get into that) so you can see what I've produced so far at: > > http://www.swcp.com/~hollyf/weaving/ > > I'm sure weaving must seem mind numbing to some, but I have found that > I really enjoy it. I would like to do some more, and perhaps try to > make a simple loom, but where can one find bulk wool and linen thread? > Right now I'm using cotton embroidery floss because it is big enough to be > easy to see and work with and not too expensive for experimentation, but > I'd rather use something more authentic for items I plan to use on a garment. > > thanks, > Holly > > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na From tom@rabbitsales.com Wed, 03 Apr 2002 16:02:53 -0500 Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 16:02:53 -0500 From: tom@rabbitsales.com tom@rabbitsales.com Subject: [Regia-NA] intro and weaving Hi, I get wool embroidery floss which I use for regular sewing from an embroidery shop at the 'Savage Mill' in Savage Maryland. But I bet G-Street would have some as well. Maybe people know of a good online source? What about heavy weight raw silk thread? Take Care, Tom From t_neill@hotmail.com Wed, 03 Apr 2002 21:02:49 +0000 Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 21:02:49 +0000 From: Terry L. Neill t_neill@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] intro and weaving >perhaps try to make a simple loom, Making a loom is easy--one 1x3 inch board and two pieces of stout dowel--drill holes in each end of the board (mine is about 4 feet long) and set dowels in each hole. Makes an easy tensioning board for your warp. >but where can one find bulk wool and linen thread? My absolutely favorite thread to tablet weave with is called "Zephyr". It's 50% merino wool and 50% tussah silk. Georgeous stuff! It doesn't stretch or pill as much as pure wool does. It's about $3.75 per ounce, but an ounce goes a looooong way. The same company also makes 100% merino wool thread, which is also nice. Ursula's Alcove in Pennsylvania sells Zephyr for the best price I've found so far (unless you can find it in a local weaving shop and don't have to pay postage). You can contact Linda Lessing of Ursula's Alcove at ursula@nauticom.net. Tell her Anarra Karlsdottir/Terry Neill sent you. If you are anywhere in the mid atlantic region of the United States, she also sells at SCA events in the Kingdom of the East and Atlantia. And she goes to Pennsic. Regards! - Anarra/Terry _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From kimberly@ka9q.net Wed, 03 Apr 2002 13:08:16 -0800 Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 13:08:16 -0800 From: Kimberly Karn kimberly@ka9q.net Subject: [Regia-NA] intro and weaving At 01:41 PM 4/3/02 -0700, you wrote: >Thought I'd come out of lurking and introduce myself. I had always wanted >to get involved with historical re-creation, but until recently I never >had the free time. I've been having a blast studying culinary history, >learning to make pottery, and just this weekend I decided to try my >hand at tablet weaving. I put up a little page for my folks since they >wanted to know what tablet weaving was and why I still don't have a job >(we won't get into that) so you can see what I've produced so far at: > >http://www.swcp.com/~hollyf/weaving/ > >I'm sure weaving must seem mind numbing to some, but I have found that >I really enjoy it. I would like to do some more, and perhaps try to >make a simple loom, but where can one find bulk wool and linen thread? >Right now I'm using cotton embroidery floss because it is big enough to be >easy to see and work with and not too expensive for experimentation, but >I'd rather use something more authentic for items I plan to use on a garment. Where did you get the nice cards? I bet they last longer than my cardboard ones. Nice weaving. Do you know what size thread they would have used in period? K "We are the origins of war, not history's forces nor the times nor justice nor the lack of it nor causes nor religions nor ideas nor kinds of government nor any other thing. We are the killers we breed war... For the love of God, can't we love another just a little. That's how peace begins. We have so much to love each other for. We have such possibilities my children. We could change the world." Eleanor of Aquataine in the "Lion in Winter" From dsunlin@hotmail.com Wed, 03 Apr 2002 13:12:10 -0800 Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 13:12:10 -0800 From: Douglas Sunlin dsunlin@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] intro and weaving Where are you located Holly? Oswald <><><> <><><> <><><> >>Thought I'd come out of lurking and introduce myself. I had always wanted >>to get involved with historical re-creation, but until recently I never >>had the free time. I've been having a blast studying culinary history, >>learning to make pottery, and just this weekend I decided to try my >>hand at tablet weaving. I put up a little page for my folks since they >>wanted to know what tablet weaving was and why I still don't have a job >>(we won't get into that) so you can see what I've produced so far at: >> >>http://www.swcp.com/~hollyf/weaving/ >> >>I'm sure weaving must seem mind numbing to some, but I have found that >>I really enjoy it. I would like to do some more, and perhaps try to >>make a simple loom, but where can one find bulk wool and linen thread? >>Right now I'm using cotton embroidery floss because it is big enough to be >>easy to see and work with and not too expensive for experimentation, but >>I'd rather use something more authentic for items I plan to use on a >>garment. > _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From CRMayhew@hotmail.com Wed, 3 Apr 2002 16:31:10 -0500 Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 16:31:10 -0500 From: Charlotte Mayhew CRMayhew@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] intro and weaving Funny you should mention the "Zephyr" yarn. I bought some of that yarn from Ursula's Alcove in February at the St. Valentine's Day Feast & Massacre in Kalamazoo, MI. It is lovely stuff. How does the Zephyr hold up as far as colorfastness and washing goes? I've been hesitant about washing it. --charlotte mayhew ----- Original Message ----- From: "Terry L. Neill" To: Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 4:02 PM Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] intro and weaving > >perhaps try to make a simple loom, > > Making a loom is easy--one 1x3 inch board and two pieces of stout > dowel--drill holes in each end of the board (mine is about 4 feet long) and > set dowels in each hole. Makes an easy tensioning board for your warp. > > >but where can one find bulk wool and linen thread? > My absolutely favorite thread to tablet weave with is called "Zephyr". It's > 50% merino wool and 50% tussah silk. Georgeous stuff! It doesn't stretch > or pill as much as pure wool does. It's about $3.75 per ounce, but an ounce > goes a looooong way. The same company also makes 100% merino wool thread, > which is also nice. > > Ursula's Alcove in Pennsylvania sells Zephyr for the best price I've found > so far (unless you can find it in a local weaving shop and don't have to pay > postage). You can contact Linda Lessing of Ursula's Alcove at > ursula@nauticom.net. Tell her Anarra Karlsdottir/Terry Neill sent you. > > If you are anywhere in the mid atlantic region of the United States, she > also sells at SCA events in the Kingdom of the East and Atlantia. And she > goes to Pennsic. > > Regards! > > - Anarra/Terry > > _________________________________________________________________ > Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com > > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > From hollyf@swcp.com Wed, 3 Apr 2002 14:21:54 -0700 Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 14:21:54 -0700 From: Holly Fabre hollyf@swcp.com Subject: [Regia-NA] intro and weaving > > Where did you get the nice cards? I bet they last longer than my cardboard > ones. They're slats of wood that I found at a local craft store. I drilled holes in them, and then reamed out the holes with a dremel tool to remove the splinters. The only drawback with them is that the wood is, well, splintery, and tends to catch every now and then, of course I could get them smoother if I wanted to spend more time sanding.. And I'm located in Rockville, Maryland, I moved here in August/September from Albuquerque, NM. Thanks everyone!! I appreciate all the sources. Holly From t_neill@hotmail.com Wed, 03 Apr 2002 21:23:20 +0000 Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 21:23:20 +0000 From: Terry L. Neill t_neill@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Care and feeding of zephyr >How does the Zephyr hold up as far as >colorfastness and washing goes? I've been hesitant about washing it. I haven't washed anything yet--haven't needed to. I imagine that handwashing in mild soap with cool water with a good rinse and air drying wouldn't hurt. If I ever do have to wash something, that's how I'd do it. I've had absolutely no trouble with colorfastness, and some of my balls of yarn have been out in the sun quite a bit. Regards! - Anarra/Terry _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From t_neill@hotmail.com Wed, 03 Apr 2002 21:53:04 +0000 Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 21:53:04 +0000 From: Terry L. Neill t_neill@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] intro and weaving >And I'm located in Rockville, Maryland, If you are located in Rockville, you might want to get hold of Michael Houghton (http://www.radix.net/~herveus) who lives in Bowie. He sells really nice authentic wooden tablets--of a better (smaller) size than the one's you're using. Last I checked they were $1 each. He also sells ratchet tablet weaving looms, but they're not authentic for Regia. He teaches 3/2 twill and his wife teaches double-faced weave tablet weaving. Regards! - Anarra/Terry _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From capriest@cs.vassar.edu Wed, 03 Apr 2002 17:18:45 -0500 Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 17:18:45 -0500 From: Carolyn Priest-Dorman capriest@cs.vassar.edu Subject: [Regia-NA] intro and weaving Holly wrote: >where can one find bulk wool and linen thread? My two favorite mail order sources for these are Webs in Northampton, MA, and Robin & Russ in McMinnville, OR. Both are cheaper than Halcyon (or were--I haven't compared in the last couple years) and both offer a number of different types of bargains (bulk orders, closeout discounts, overstocks, etc.). Get on their samples mailing lists if you're a serious yarn junkie. And if you should happen to physically go into Webs, make sure you wear your walking shoes so you can spend all day perusing their warehouse with a shopping cart! ;> http://www.yarn.com/webs/index.html http://www.robinandruss.com/ Carolyn Priest-Dorman =DE=F3ra Sharptooth http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/thora.html "Never trust anything that can think for itself if you can't see where it keeps its brain."=20 -- J.K. Rowling From capriest@cs.vassar.edu Wed, 03 Apr 2002 17:20:07 -0500 Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 17:20:07 -0500 From: Carolyn Priest-Dorman capriest@cs.vassar.edu Subject: [Regia-NA] intro and weaving Tom wrote: >What about heavy weight raw=20 >silk thread? By raw silk, do you mean undegummed reeled silk? Or do you mean spun silk noil? Or is there a third possibility which I hadn't counted upon? ;> Carolyn Priest-Dorman =DE=F3ra Sharptooth http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/thora.html "Never trust anything that can think for itself if you can't see where it keeps its brain."=20 -- J.K. Rowling From Hrolf@btinternet.com Thu, 4 Apr 2002 08:58:11 +0100 Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 08:58:11 +0100 From: Hrolf Douglasson Hrolf@btinternet.com Subject: [Regia-NA] intro and weaving two pieces of vaneer glued with the grain against one another produce a nice tablet. gelfling in the UK used to sell horn ones for about £40 set. wooden ones are for sale at most shows...another reason to come over:) regards vara ----- Original Message ----- From: "Holly Fabre" To: Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 10:21 PM Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] intro and weaving > > > > Where did you get the nice cards? I bet they last longer than my cardboard > > ones. > > They're slats of wood that I found at a local craft store. I drilled holes > in them, and then reamed out the holes with a dremel tool to remove the > splinters. The only drawback with them is that the wood is, well, splintery, > and tends to catch every now and then, of course I could get them smoother > if I wanted to spend more time sanding.. > > And I'm located in Rockville, Maryland, I moved here in August/September > from Albuquerque, NM. > > Thanks everyone!! I appreciate all the sources. > > Holly > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na From jcain@insight.rr.com Thu, 04 Apr 2002 07:19:18 -0500 Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 07:19:18 -0500 From: Joy Cain jcain@insight.rr.com Subject: [Regia-NA] intro and weaving Dear Holly - First, your card weaving is beautiful! (I peeked at your page...) As far as sources go, save up your money and head out to the Maryland Sheep and Wool Festival in Rockville, Maryland, May 4-5. It is nirvana for spinners and weavers, the biggest in the US. I dream of someday being able to go! Here is the URL for information: http://www.sheepandwoolfestival.org/ At the festival you should be able to find whatever you want and make contacts for more! As far as yarns for weaving go, my suggestion is to look for plied yarns with very little elasticity. Linen, silk and long wools are all wonderful and each give you a different look. Joy >> >> And I'm located in Rockville, Maryland, I moved here in August/September >> from Albuquerque, NM. >> >> Thanks everyone!! I appreciate all the sources. >> >> Holly >> _______________________________________________ >> list-regia-na mailing list >> list-regia-na@lig.net >> http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na From CRMayhew@hotmail.com Thu, 4 Apr 2002 09:00:20 -0500 Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 09:00:20 -0500 From: Charlotte Mayhew CRMayhew@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] intro and weaving I just got the Robin and Russ catalog with yarn samples--oh my! What a lot of different yarns! I hadn't heard of this place in Noho, MA, though. Thanks! And, Holly, your card weaving looks great--very crisp! And I'm sure glad you asked those questions! (Turns out there are a lot of card-weavers on this list...) Can anyone recommend a source for Regia-appropriate card-weaving patterns? (I'm borrowing the Egon Hansen book, but it's tough for me to decipher.) --charlotte mayhew ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carolyn Priest-Dorman" To: Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 5:18 PM Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] intro and weaving Holly wrote: >where can one find bulk wool and linen thread? My two favorite mail order sources for these are Webs in Northampton, MA, and Robin & Russ in McMinnville, OR. Both are cheaper than Halcyon (or were--I haven't compared in the last couple years) and both offer a number of different types of bargains (bulk orders, closeout discounts, overstocks, etc.). Get on their samples mailing lists if you're a serious yarn junkie. And if you should happen to physically go into Webs, make sure you wear your walking shoes so you can spend all day perusing their warehouse with a shopping cart! ;> http://www.yarn.com/webs/index.html http://www.robinandruss.com/ Carolyn Priest-Dorman Þóra Sharptooth http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/thora.html "Never trust anything that can think for itself if you can't see where it keeps its brain." -- J.K. Rowling _______________________________________________ list-regia-na mailing list list-regia-na@lig.net http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na From CRMayhew@hotmail.com Thu, 4 Apr 2002 09:02:45 -0500 Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 09:02:45 -0500 From: Charlotte Mayhew CRMayhew@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] intro and weaving Thanks, Anarra! I'd been planning on making some tablets out of veneer (Thora's good suggestion), but that price makes it easier to just buy them. And thanks for the Zephyr info! --charlotte mayhew ----- Original Message ----- From: "Terry L. Neill" To: Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 4:53 PM Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] intro and weaving > > >And I'm located in Rockville, Maryland, > > If you are located in Rockville, you might want to get hold of Michael > Houghton (http://www.radix.net/~herveus) who lives in Bowie. He sells > really nice authentic wooden tablets--of a better (smaller) size than the > one's you're using. Last I checked they were $1 each. > > He also sells ratchet tablet weaving looms, but they're not authentic for > Regia. > > He teaches 3/2 twill and his wife teaches double-faced weave tablet weaving. > > Regards! > > - Anarra/Terry > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. > > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > From CRMayhew@hotmail.com Thu, 4 Apr 2002 09:08:35 -0500 Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 09:08:35 -0500 From: Charlotte Mayhew CRMayhew@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] intro and weaving Dear Joy-- You're in Ohio, right? Have you been to the Fleece Fair in Chelsea, MI? If you're not far from the border, it is probably worth your while. By the way, I saw the dress you made at Pennsic last year. It is beautiful. The web photo does not do it justice. Also, do you (or anyone else) know where I could get a small hunk of fleece-in-the-grease mail order? And a partial sheepskin? (I'm putting together a display for demos.) Thanks! --charlotte mayhew ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joy Cain" To: Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 7:19 AM Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] intro and weaving > Dear Holly - > > First, your card weaving is beautiful! (I peeked at your page...) > As far as sources go, save up your money and head out to the Maryland Sheep > and Wool Festival in Rockville, Maryland, May 4-5. It is nirvana for > spinners and weavers, the biggest in the US. I dream of someday being able > to go! Here is the URL for information: http://www.sheepandwoolfestival.org/ > > At the festival you should be able to find whatever you want and make > contacts for more! > > As far as yarns for weaving go, my suggestion is to look for plied yarns > with very little elasticity. Linen, silk and long wools are all wonderful > and each give you a different look. > > Joy > > >> > >> And I'm located in Rockville, Maryland, I moved here in August/September > >> from Albuquerque, NM. > >> > >> Thanks everyone!! I appreciate all the sources. > >> > >> Holly > >> _______________________________________________ > >> list-regia-na mailing list > >> list-regia-na@lig.net > >> http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > > > _______________________________________________ > > list-regia-na mailing list > > list-regia-na@lig.net > > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > From jcain@insight.rr.com Thu, 04 Apr 2002 09:19:27 -0500 Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 09:19:27 -0500 From: Joy Cain jcain@insight.rr.com Subject: [Regia-NA] intro and weaving >You're in Ohio, right? Sure am...Columbus, OH >Have you been to the Fleece Fair in Chelsea, MI? Nope, but I have a sister in Grosse Ile who has been pestering me for a visit... >By the way, I saw the dress you made at Pennsic last year. It is beautiful. >The web photo does not do it justice. Thank you so much! I just wish I had my own! I just cut off a 10 yard warp 9it started out as a 12 yard warp) that was supposed to be a broken lozenge twill dress for me. I am now of the opinion that hand-spun singles are the only way to weave singles (I was using a commercial singles) and that the weave did not survive past the introduction of multi-harness looms for a very good reason. (have soapbox, will stand) I had my husband hold my hand as I cut it off. I managed to eke out 3 yards of fabric after 72+ hours warping and rewarping and 12 hours of weaving. >Also, do you (or anyone else) know where I could get a small hunk of >fleece-in-the-grease mail order? What kind of fleece? Lincoln? Dorset? Fine mixed breed? Those are the fleeces that I have that I have not yet got around to washing (naughty spinner!) I could send you up a chunk of each which would give you a nice display of the variety of wool - the difference between a long wool like Lincoln verses a fine wool like Merino and how different breeds have different characteristics and uses. And most of my stash are from ewes and wethers so the wool won't be quite as stinky. >And a partial sheepskin? Brush Creek Wool Works sells them. I can get you the contact info if you'd like. Or Tandy Leather may be able to get you one. If you are going to Coronation in Cleveland, I can bring up samples of wool and meet you there. Reply off list, if you'd like. Joy From t_neill@hotmail.com Thu, 04 Apr 2002 14:32:28 +0000 Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 14:32:28 +0000 From: Terry L. Neill t_neill@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Leather weaving tablets >I'd been planning on making some tablets out of veneer (Thora's good >suggestion), >but that price makes it easier to just buy them. When I had to make *something* more authentic than my cardboard tablets for the demos I did at the Smithsonian, and faced with my total lack of either woodworking skills or tools, I made a set of leather tablets. I cut a bunch of them out of light-weight leather, suitable for knife sheaths and shoe uppers, at about 2x2 inches or a bit smaller. I punched the holes in them with a leather hole punch. I heated water up and dipped them, in an attempt to make them stiff by cuir bolli. Thank GOD I only dipped half of them. The cuir bolli gave me randomly shaped rhombuses. So I threw myself at the feet of the string muses and warped up my two-peg tension board with the leather tablets, unstiffened, and hoped. They work GREAT! The project I had warped for the Smithsonian demos was double-faced so I could mindlessly demonstrate chevrons, stripes and checks (never try to do an *un*mindless pattern at a jam-packed crowded demo!) I was turning the whole pack at once. I had concerns about 'floppy tablets' when doing a pattern that required individual card turns, so I tried that out. No problem! I've now got those cards warped up in a brocaded pattern. Also no problem. (Of course, one turns the entire pack for brocade, so I wasn't anticipating any problems!) I highly recommend leather tablets. They're easy to make, work well at the size I chose, are lightweight, and I think they are just as authentic as wooden ones. Not that I'm trying to do Michael/Herveus out of business! I like his wooden tablets, too. But leather is definately a viable alternative. Regards! - Anarra/Terry _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From t_neill@hotmail.com Thu, 04 Apr 2002 14:52:04 +0000 Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 14:52:04 +0000 From: Terry L. Neill t_neill@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] MD Sheep and wool and Hanson >Maryland Sheep and Wool Festival in Rockville, >Maryland, May 4-5. It is nirvana for spinners and weavers, the biggest in >the US. I dream of someday being able to go! Here is the URL for >information: http://www.sheepandwoolfestival.org/ It's at the Howard County Fair Grounds. It's FANTASTIC. Since you live so close, you HAVE to go. You want something to do with sheep? This is your festival! Wool, fleece, roving, batting, skins, yarn, tools, dyes, dye plants, mordants, garden stuff (we bought wonderful tomato plants--Amish Heritage or somesuch--yummy!) All the lamb and limeade you can consume. Sheep dog demonstrations, tool auctions, sheep for sale, shearing demos, sheep to shawl, classes, books, books, books, and on and on and on.... Things you might especially want: Tablets and tablet weaving supplies and books antique spindles (different from modern ones) Natural dyes dye plants and the atmosphere! Tons of fun. >Can anyone recommend a source for Regia-appropriate card-weaving patterns? >(I'm borrowing the Egon Hansen book, but it's tough for me to decipher.) I wish someone would publish a 'transaltion' or interpretation of his patterns. It would be such a boon! Regards! - Anarra/Terry _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From CRMayhew@hotmail.com Thu, 4 Apr 2002 10:36:24 -0500 Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 10:36:24 -0500 From: Charlotte Mayhew CRMayhew@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Leather weaving tablets Hmmm...very interesting...and very easy for someone whose husband has a large leather-scrap box in the house! Thanks! --charlotte (can't-have-too-many-weaving-projects) mayhew ----- Original Message ----- From: "Terry L. Neill" To: Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 9:32 AM Subject: [Regia-NA] Leather weaving tablets > > >I'd been planning on making some tablets out of veneer (Thora's good > >suggestion), > >but that price makes it easier to just buy them. > > > When I had to make *something* more authentic than my cardboard tablets for > the demos I did at the Smithsonian, and faced with my total lack of either > woodworking skills or tools, I made a set of leather tablets. > > I cut a bunch of them out of light-weight leather, suitable for knife > sheaths and shoe uppers, at about 2x2 inches or a bit smaller. I punched > the holes in them with a leather hole punch. I heated water up and dipped > them, in an attempt to make them stiff by cuir bolli. > > Thank GOD I only dipped half of them. The cuir bolli gave me randomly > shaped rhombuses. So I threw myself at the feet of the string muses and > warped up my two-peg tension board with the leather tablets, unstiffened, > and hoped. > > They work GREAT! The project I had warped for the Smithsonian demos was > double-faced so I could mindlessly demonstrate chevrons, stripes and checks > (never try to do an *un*mindless pattern at a jam-packed crowded demo!) I > was turning the whole pack at once. > > I had concerns about 'floppy tablets' when doing a pattern that required > individual card turns, so I tried that out. No problem! > > I've now got those cards warped up in a brocaded pattern. Also no problem. > (Of course, one turns the entire pack for brocade, so I wasn't anticipating > any problems!) > > I highly recommend leather tablets. They're easy to make, work well at the > size I chose, are lightweight, and I think they are just as authentic as > wooden ones. > > Not that I'm trying to do Michael/Herveus out of business! I like his > wooden tablets, too. But leather is definately a viable alternative. > > Regards! > > - Anarra/Terry > > _________________________________________________________________ > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > From kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Thu, 4 Apr 2002 16:42:32 +0100 Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 16:42:32 +0100 From: J. K. Siddorn kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] Leather weaving tablets You might try experimenting on soaking the leather in water/oil/butter/bear fat/goose greese/hair gel and using a microwave. Water wet, it has some odd effects, including making the leather go like jelly before it sets solid! EXPERIMENT, I said! Regards, Kim Siddorn. The early bird may get the worm - but the second mouse gets the cheese! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlotte Mayhew" To: Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 4:36 PM Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Leather weaving tablets > Hmmm...very interesting...and very easy for someone whose husband has a > large leather-scrap box in the house! Thanks! > > --charlotte (can't-have-too-many-weaving-projects) mayhew > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Terry L. Neill" > To: > Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 9:32 AM > Subject: [Regia-NA] Leather weaving tablets > > > > > > >I'd been planning on making some tablets out of veneer (Thora's good > > >suggestion), > > >but that price makes it easier to just buy them. > > > > > > When I had to make *something* more authentic than my cardboard tablets > for > > the demos I did at the Smithsonian, and faced with my total lack of either > > woodworking skills or tools, I made a set of leather tablets. > > > > I cut a bunch of them out of light-weight leather, suitable for knife > > sheaths and shoe uppers, at about 2x2 inches or a bit smaller. I punched > > the holes in them with a leather hole punch. I heated water up and dipped > > them, in an attempt to make them stiff by cuir bolli. > > > > Thank GOD I only dipped half of them. The cuir bolli gave me randomly > > shaped rhombuses. So I threw myself at the feet of the string muses and > > warped up my two-peg tension board with the leather tablets, unstiffened, > > and hoped. > > > > They work GREAT! The project I had warped for the Smithsonian demos was > > double-faced so I could mindlessly demonstrate chevrons, stripes and > checks > > (never try to do an *un*mindless pattern at a jam-packed crowded demo!) I > > was turning the whole pack at once. > > > > I had concerns about 'floppy tablets' when doing a pattern that required > > individual card turns, so I tried that out. No problem! > > > > I've now got those cards warped up in a brocaded pattern. Also no > problem. > > (Of course, one turns the entire pack for brocade, so I wasn't > anticipating > > any problems!) > > > > I highly recommend leather tablets. They're easy to make, work well at > the > > size I chose, are lightweight, and I think they are just as authentic as > > wooden ones. > > > > Not that I'm trying to do Michael/Herveus out of business! I like his > > wooden tablets, too. But leather is definately a viable alternative. > > > > Regards! > > > > - Anarra/Terry > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: > > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > > > _______________________________________________ > > list-regia-na mailing list > > list-regia-na@lig.net > > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > From dsunlin@hotmail.com Thu, 04 Apr 2002 09:43:18 -0800 Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 09:43:18 -0800 From: Douglas Sunlin dsunlin@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Leather weaving tablets Ummm... Ya think they might have used rawhide? I mean, why bother with tanning for softness and cuir bouilli for hardness (unless you're really hungry!), when rawhide does the trick? Seeing how many people are interested in tablet-weaving, let me know when there are some bands for sale... ;) <><><> <><><> <><><> Oswald >From: "J. K. Siddorn" >Reply-To: list-regia-na@lig.net >To: >Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Leather weaving tablets >Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 16:42:32 +0100 > >You might try experimenting on soaking the leather in water/oil/butter/bear >fat/goose greese/hair gel and using a microwave. Water wet, it has some odd >effects, including making the leather go like jelly before it sets solid! > >EXPERIMENT, I said! > >Regards, > > >Kim Siddorn. > >The early bird may get the worm - >but the second mouse gets the cheese! > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Charlotte Mayhew" >To: >Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 4:36 PM >Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Leather weaving tablets > > > > Hmmm...very interesting...and very easy for someone whose husband has a > > large leather-scrap box in the house! Thanks! > > > > --charlotte (can't-have-too-many-weaving-projects) mayhew > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Terry L. Neill" > > To: > > Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 9:32 AM > > Subject: [Regia-NA] Leather weaving tablets > > > > > > > > > > >I'd been planning on making some tablets out of veneer (Thora's good > > > >suggestion), > > > >but that price makes it easier to just buy them. > > > > > > > > > When I had to make *something* more authentic than my cardboard >tablets > > for > > > the demos I did at the Smithsonian, and faced with my total lack of >either > > > woodworking skills or tools, I made a set of leather tablets. > > > > > > I cut a bunch of them out of light-weight leather, suitable for knife > > > sheaths and shoe uppers, at about 2x2 inches or a bit smaller. I >punched > > > the holes in them with a leather hole punch. I heated water up and >dipped > > > them, in an attempt to make them stiff by cuir bolli. > > > > > > Thank GOD I only dipped half of them. The cuir bolli gave me >randomly > > > shaped rhombuses. So I threw myself at the feet of the string muses >and > > > warped up my two-peg tension board with the leather tablets, >unstiffened, > > > and hoped. > > > > > > They work GREAT! The project I had warped for the Smithsonian demos >was > > > double-faced so I could mindlessly demonstrate chevrons, stripes and > > checks > > > (never try to do an *un*mindless pattern at a jam-packed crowded >demo!) >I > > > was turning the whole pack at once. > > > > > > I had concerns about 'floppy tablets' when doing a pattern that >required > > > individual card turns, so I tried that out. No problem! > > > > > > I've now got those cards warped up in a brocaded pattern. Also no > > problem. > > > (Of course, one turns the entire pack for brocade, so I wasn't > > anticipating > > > any problems!) > > > > > > I highly recommend leather tablets. They're easy to make, work well >at > > the > > > size I chose, are lightweight, and I think they are just as authentic >as > > > wooden ones. > > > > > > Not that I'm trying to do Michael/Herveus out of business! I like his > > > wooden tablets, too. But leather is definately a viable alternative. > > > > > > Regards! > > > > > > - Anarra/Terry > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: > > > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > list-regia-na mailing list > > > list-regia-na@lig.net > > > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > list-regia-na mailing list > > list-regia-na@lig.net > > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > > >_______________________________________________ >list-regia-na mailing list >list-regia-na@lig.net >http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na <><><> <><><> <><><> Beoð ge gesunde, Oswald of Baldurstrand http://groups.yahoo.com/group/California_Viking_Age http://www.geocities.com/baldurstrand/ _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From CRMayhew@hotmail.com Thu, 4 Apr 2002 15:05:04 -0500 Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 15:05:04 -0500 From: Charlotte Mayhew CRMayhew@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Leather weaving tablets Rawhide (at least modern, commercial rawhide) has surprisingly sharp edges... unlike tanned leather. --charlotte mayhew ----- Original Message ----- From: "Douglas Sunlin" To: Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 12:43 PM Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Leather weaving tablets > Ummm... Ya think they might have used rawhide? I mean, why bother with > tanning for softness and cuir bouilli for hardness (unless you're really > hungry!), when rawhide does the trick? > > Seeing how many people are interested in tablet-weaving, let me know when > there are some bands for sale... ;) > <><><> <><><> <><><> > Oswald > > > >From: "J. K. Siddorn" > >Reply-To: list-regia-na@lig.net > >To: > >Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Leather weaving tablets > >Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 16:42:32 +0100 > > > >You might try experimenting on soaking the leather in water/oil/butter/bear > >fat/goose greese/hair gel and using a microwave. Water wet, it has some odd > >effects, including making the leather go like jelly before it sets solid! > > > >EXPERIMENT, I said! > > > >Regards, > > > > > >Kim Siddorn. > > > >The early bird may get the worm - > >but the second mouse gets the cheese! > > > > > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "Charlotte Mayhew" > >To: > >Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 4:36 PM > >Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Leather weaving tablets > > > > > > > Hmmm...very interesting...and very easy for someone whose husband has a > > > large leather-scrap box in the house! Thanks! > > > > > > --charlotte (can't-have-too-many-weaving-projects) mayhew > > > > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "Terry L. Neill" > > > To: > > > Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 9:32 AM > > > Subject: [Regia-NA] Leather weaving tablets > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >I'd been planning on making some tablets out of veneer (Thora's good > > > > >suggestion), > > > > >but that price makes it easier to just buy them. > > > > > > > > > > > > When I had to make *something* more authentic than my cardboard > >tablets > > > for > > > > the demos I did at the Smithsonian, and faced with my total lack of > >either > > > > woodworking skills or tools, I made a set of leather tablets. > > > > > > > > I cut a bunch of them out of light-weight leather, suitable for knife > > > > sheaths and shoe uppers, at about 2x2 inches or a bit smaller. I > >punched > > > > the holes in them with a leather hole punch. I heated water up and > >dipped > > > > them, in an attempt to make them stiff by cuir bolli. > > > > > > > > Thank GOD I only dipped half of them. The cuir bolli gave me > >randomly > > > > shaped rhombuses. So I threw myself at the feet of the string muses > >and > > > > warped up my two-peg tension board with the leather tablets, > >unstiffened, > > > > and hoped. > > > > > > > > They work GREAT! The project I had warped for the Smithsonian demos > >was > > > > double-faced so I could mindlessly demonstrate chevrons, stripes and > > > checks > > > > (never try to do an *un*mindless pattern at a jam-packed crowded > >demo!) > >I > > > > was turning the whole pack at once. > > > > > > > > I had concerns about 'floppy tablets' when doing a pattern that > >required > > > > individual card turns, so I tried that out. No problem! > > > > > > > > I've now got those cards warped up in a brocaded pattern. Also no > > > problem. > > > > (Of course, one turns the entire pack for brocade, so I wasn't > > > anticipating > > > > any problems!) > > > > > > > > I highly recommend leather tablets. They're easy to make, work well > >at > > > the > > > > size I chose, are lightweight, and I think they are just as authentic > >as > > > > wooden ones. > > > > > > > > Not that I'm trying to do Michael/Herveus out of business! I like his > > > > wooden tablets, too. But leather is definately a viable alternative. > > > > > > > > Regards! > > > > > > > > - Anarra/Terry > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > > > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: > > > > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > list-regia-na mailing list > > > > list-regia-na@lig.net > > > > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > list-regia-na mailing list > > > list-regia-na@lig.net > > > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > >list-regia-na mailing list > >list-regia-na@lig.net > >http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > > <><><> <><><> <><><> > Beoð ge gesunde, > Oswald of Baldurstrand > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/California_Viking_Age > http://www.geocities.com/baldurstrand/ > > _________________________________________________________________ > Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com > > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > From jacknotname@yahoo.com Thu, 4 Apr 2002 12:10:41 -0800 (PST) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 12:10:41 -0800 (PST) From: Matthew Tarplee jacknotname@yahoo.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Leather weaving tablets --0-825715307-1017951041=:30009 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii When I had to make *something* more authentic than my cardboard tablets for the demos I did at the Smithsonian, and faced with my total lack of either woodworking skills or tools, I made a set of leather tablets. In my experiance if you want to do the water hardening method with tanned leather do not imerse the leather in boiling water. When I was makeing my leather thorhammer I followed Ragnar's (from ragweedforge.com) advise and only heated the water up untill I could see "little bubbles forming in the pan" then only imersed the piece for about 30 seconds to a minute. The trick is not to "over cook" your leather or it will do funky things. That worked well, and the leather held it's shape, granted I was using much thicker (armor grade) scraps. Matt --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax --0-825715307-1017951041=:30009 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
When I had to make *something* more authentic than my cardboard tablets for
the demos I did at the Smithsonian, and faced with my total lack of either
woodworking skills or tools, I made a set of leather tablets.

<I cut a bunch of them out of light-weight leather, suitable for knife
sheaths and shoe uppers, at about 2x2 inches or a bit smaller. I punched
the holes in them with a leather hole punch. I heated water up and dipped
them, in an attempt to make them stiff by cuir bolli.

Thank GOD I only dipped half of them. The cuir bolli gave me randomly
shaped rhombuses. >
In my experiance if you want to do the water hardening method with tanned leather do not imerse the leather in boiling water. When I was makeing my leather thorhammer I followed Ragnar's (from ragweedforge.com) advise and only heated the water up untill I could see "little bubbles forming in the pan" then only imersed the piece for about 30 seconds to a minute. The trick is not to "over cook" your leather or it will do funky things. That worked well, and the leather held it's shape, granted I was using much thicker (armor grade) scraps.
Matt

Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax --0-825715307-1017951041=:30009-- From t_neill@hotmail.com Thu, 04 Apr 2002 21:23:41 +0000 Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 21:23:41 +0000 From: Terry L. Neill t_neill@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Leather weaving tablets >Rawhide (at least modern, commercial rawhide) has surprisingly sharp >edges... >unlike tanned leather. Not to mention what it would do to your warp if it got wet. :-( - Anarra/Terry _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From t_neill@hotmail.com Thu, 04 Apr 2002 21:29:10 +0000 Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 21:29:10 +0000 From: Terry L. Neill t_neill@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Leather weaving tablets >The trick is not to "over cook" your leather or it will do funky things. >That worked well, and the leather held it's shape, granted I was using much >thicker (armor grade) scraps. My water was probably less hot than a simmer--just under a simmer--as also did not want to boil the leather. I suspect my rhombuses were the result of the thinness of the leather. I haven't tried again with even cooler water--maybe around 65celcius might do the trick. One day I will experiment again. But for now I'm happy with my untreated leather tablets. Regards! - Anarra/Terry _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From CRMayhew@hotmail.com Thu, 4 Apr 2002 17:00:11 -0500 Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 17:00:11 -0500 From: Charlotte Mayhew CRMayhew@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Leather weaving tablets I hadn't even thought of that! My husband did a lot of experiments with rawhide for armor... most ended in a revolting, mushy goo. ugh. --charlotte mayhew ----- Original Message ----- From: "Terry L. Neill" To: Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 4:23 PM Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Leather weaving tablets > >Rawhide (at least modern, commercial rawhide) has surprisingly sharp > >edges... > >unlike tanned leather. > > Not to mention what it would do to your warp if it got wet. :-( > > - Anarra/Terry > > _________________________________________________________________ > Join the world's largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. > http://www.hotmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > From brenna@robewarriors.com Thu, 4 Apr 2002 23:43:16 -0800 Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 23:43:16 -0800 From: Brenna brenna@robewarriors.com Subject: [Regia-NA] intro and weaving Although I currently carry wool and linen threads, I don't stock silk thread yet. I'm planning to but I'm still in the process of finding a good supplier. > Maybe people know of a good online source? What about heavy weight raw > silk thread? How heavy a thread are you looking for? Can you compare it to something? What will you be using it for? I may be able to help. I'm certainly willing to try. As a re-enactor myself, I know what a hassle it can be sometimes finding the correct (or even reasonably correct) supplies. Sincerely, Brenna Sharp B Sharp Fabrics supplying the living history re-enactor From brenna@robewarriors.com Thu, 4 Apr 2002 23:52:36 -0800 Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 23:52:36 -0800 From: Brenna brenna@robewarriors.com Subject: [Regia-NA] intro and weaving Sorry, folks! I meant to reply to someone off-list but forgot to change the To: field. I really need to go to bed now ..... ~Brenna From gythe@snrd.freeserve.co.uk Sat, 6 Apr 2002 18:36:18 +0100 Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 18:36:18 +0100 From: Hazel Uzzell gythe@snrd.freeserve.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] Dress in A/S England This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C1DD99.F13B1380 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi all, For anyone who has asked me recently about the progress of the re-write = of 'Dress in Anglo-Saxon England', I spoke to Gale at length over dinner = on Wednesday evening. She has taken on the post of, I think, acting Dean = of the School of English and Linguistics ( I could be wrong about that) = This involves a great deal of extra work (unpaid!) and I believe that = there are other problems in the dept. She is due to deliver papers in both Leeds and Kalamazoo in the near = future and so progress on the book has halted at the last chapter. This = state of affairs will probably last 'till August. For those awaiting David Hill's updated version of 'An Atlas of = Anglo-Saxon England', I spoke to him on the same occasion. This is being = held up by the sudden death of the man with whom he was collaborating, = and his own poor health. Sorry not to have better news. Regards, Hazel Uzzell ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C1DD99.F13B1380 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi all,

For anyone who has asked me recently = about the=20 progress of the re-write of 'Dress in Anglo-Saxon England', I spoke to = Gale at=20 length over dinner on Wednesday evening. She has taken on the post of, I = think,=20 acting Dean of the School of English and Linguistics ( I could be wrong = about=20 that) This involves a great deal of extra work (unpaid!) and I believe = that=20 there are other problems in the dept.

She is due to deliver papers in both = Leeds and=20 Kalamazoo in the near future and so progress on the book has halted at = the last=20 chapter. This state of affairs will probably last 'till = August.

For those awaiting David Hill's updated = version of=20 'An Atlas of Anglo-Saxon England', I spoke to him on the same occasion. = This is=20 being held up by the sudden death of the man with whom he was = collaborating, and=20 his own poor health.

Sorry not to have better = news.

Regards, Hazel Uzzell

------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C1DD99.F13B1380-- From sudnserv5@netway.com Sat, 6 Apr 2002 12:49:25 -0500 Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 12:49:25 -0500 From: Sudden Service #5 sudnserv5@netway.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Regia on TV Hej! I was watching History International last night when I saw some semi familiar faces. There was a segment on Viking Ships that was produced using Regia-UK members that I recognized from Kim's book. What did all of you UK members think of the production? Pax, Olaf From kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Sat, 6 Apr 2002 22:44:21 +0100 Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 22:44:21 +0100 From: J. K. Siddorn kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] Regia on TV Hi Olaf, Yus mate, but WHICH tv programme? We do filmwork almost every month now, so it could be anything! Regards, Kim Siddorn. The early bird may get the worm - but the second mouse gets the cheese! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sudden Service #5" To: Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2002 6:49 PM Subject: [Regia-NA] Regia on TV > Hej! > I was watching History International last night when I saw some semi > familiar faces. There was a segment on Viking Ships that was produced using > Regia-UK members that I recognized from Kim's book. What did all of you UK > members think of the production? > Pax, > Olaf > > > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > From sudnserv5@netway.com Sat, 6 Apr 2002 23:09:39 -0500 Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 23:09:39 -0500 From: Sudden Service #5 sudnserv5@netway.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Regia on TV Hej! Kim I think it was titled "The Viking Ship" it included a lot of pictures of the Gia as well as y'all's boats. It was produced by/for the History Channel & had a lot of talk by some one who was a Knight & titled a "Mariner". Pax, Olaf ----- Original Message ----- From: "J. K. Siddorn" To: Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2002 4:44 PM Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Regia on TV > Hi Olaf, > > Yus mate, but WHICH tv programme? We do filmwork almost every month now, so > it could be anything! > > Regards, > > > Kim Siddorn. > > The early bird may get the worm - > but the second mouse gets the cheese! > From kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Sun, 7 Apr 2002 11:29:57 +0100 Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 11:29:57 +0100 From: J. K. Siddorn kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] Regia on TV Hmmm, I think that was in the "Great Ships" series we did for Phil Grabski (Seventh Art) about six-seven years ago But it could equally well be in the "Ancient Seafarers" series we shot with Monty Mortimer (World Wide Pictures) about the same time. Since then we have sold that ship replica. Both series were OK, but were so shallow in presentation and content I was afraid the ship would run aground. Typical Discovery/History channel stuff I'm afraid! Regards, Kim Siddorn. The early bird may get the worm - but the second mouse gets the cheese! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sudden Service #5" To: Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2002 5:09 AM Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Regia on TV > Hej! Kim > I think it was titled "The Viking Ship" it included a lot of pictures of > the Gia as well as y'all's boats. It was produced by/for the History > Channel & had a lot of talk by some one who was a Knight & titled a > "Mariner". > Pax, > Olaf > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "J. K. Siddorn" > To: > Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2002 4:44 PM > Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Regia on TV > > > > Hi Olaf, > > > > Yus mate, but WHICH tv programme? We do filmwork almost every month now, > so > > it could be anything! > > > > Regards, > > > > > > Kim Siddorn. > > > > The early bird may get the worm - > > but the second mouse gets the cheese! > > > > > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > From sudnserv5@netway.com Sun, 7 Apr 2002 20:17:20 -0400 Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 20:17:20 -0400 From: Sudden Service #5 sudnserv5@netway.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Regia on TV When they rerun it I'll get all the details. I thought it was generally OK, but it did have several points where I thought they should have hedged a bit on some of the flat statements & one or two places where I thought it was flat wrong. All in all not too bad though for a general survey. Pax, Olaf ----- Original Message ----- > Hmmm, > > I think that was in the "Great Ships" series we did for Phil Grabski > (Seventh Art) about six-seven years ago But it could equally well be in the > "Ancient Seafarers" series we shot with Monty Mortimer (World Wide Pictures) > about the same time. Since then we have sold that ship replica. > > Both series were OK, but were so shallow in presentation and content I was > afraid the ship would run aground. Typical Discovery/History channel stuff > I'm afraid! > > Regards, > > > Kim Siddorn. From snorri@vikingasaga.freeserve.co.uk Mon, 8 Apr 2002 15:41:25 +0100 Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 15:41:25 +0100 From: Ian Uzzell snorri@vikingasaga.freeserve.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] Sue Peacock This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0023_01C1DF13.D77F4760 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Today is Sue Peacock's funeral and I thought that I should say a few = words. Many people in Regia do not know about Sue as she left Regia = some years ago. If my memory serves me correct it was after the = Rochester Show in 1997. =20 She was my immediate predecessor as the Living History Coordinator for = Regia having performed the task for several years. She was the person = who put the Regia LHE on the Re-enactors map and set the standards that = we still try to achieve. She put in many long hours in preparation for = a show to make sure that the Regia LHE excelled. She did not mind if = she upset Kim in the process. I was her deputy for a couple of years = before she left the position and I took over from her. Because of her = thoroughness the takeover was not as difficult as it could have been and = I had a very firm base to start from. I must just mention one incident in which she was the prime player. It = was at Brockhole in the Lake district in 1991/2 and as it does in that = part of the world from time to time - it rained. No - it bucketted = down. People in the LHE battened down to sit it out. Then a more = determined member of the public arrived on the scene and, being = disappointed not to see members of the society out in the pouring rain = doing crafts complained loudly that she had paid =A32-50 to see a show! = A tent flap opened and Sue looked out and thrust =A32-50 into her hand!=20 She lived for Regia in the years that she ran the LHE and we have a = great deal to thank her for. No one who was involved in the LHE in = those years will ever forget her and the amount that she did for the = society. May she rest in peace Ian Uzzell =20 ------=_NextPart_000_0023_01C1DF13.D77F4760 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Today is Sue Peacock's funeral and I = thought that I=20 should say a few words. Many people in Regia do not know = about Sue as=20 she left Regia some years ago. If my memory serves me correct = it was=20 after the Rochester Show in 1997.

She was my immediate predecessor as the = Living=20 History Coordinator for Regia having performed the task for several = years. =20 She was the person who put the Regia LHE on the Re-enactors map and = set the=20 standards that we still try to achieve. She put in many long hours = in=20 preparation for a show to make sure that the Regia LHE excelled. = She did=20 not mind if she upset Kim in the process. I was her deputy for a = couple of=20 years before she left the position and I took over from = her. =20 Because of her thoroughness the takeover was not as difficult as it = could have=20 been and I had a very firm base to start from.

I must just mention one incident in = which she was=20 the prime player. It was at Brockhole in the Lake district in = 1991/2 and=20 as it does in that part of the world from time to time - it = rained. No -=20 it bucketted down. People in the LHE battened down to sit it = out. =20 Then a more determined member of the public arrived on the scene and, = being=20 disappointed not to see members of the society out in the pouring rain = doing=20 crafts complained loudly that she had paid =A32-50 to see a show! = A tent=20 flap opened and Sue looked out and thrust =A32-50 into her=20 hand!

She lived for Regia in the years that = she ran the=20 LHE and we have a great deal to thank her for. No one who was = involved in=20 the LHE in those years will ever forget her and the amount that she did = for the=20 society.

May she rest in peace

Ian = Uzzell
------=_NextPart_000_0023_01C1DF13.D77F4760-- From hollyf@swcp.com Mon, 8 Apr 2002 09:02:13 -0600 Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 09:02:13 -0600 From: Holly Fabre hollyf@swcp.com Subject: [Regia-NA] undertunic Firstly, I want to thank everyone for the help with the weaving. I'm looking into building a simple loom right now, but I am currently living in a small appartment that is completely carpeted (why do they do that?) so woodworking is, well, complicated. I miss my house and my woodshop, *sigh*. Anyway, I have another question: I am trying to make a simple undertunic/chemise/chainse that would be appropriate for the 12th century. This is my first attempt at, well, sewing anything beyond a hem, actually. I bought some cheap fabric to throw together a prototype, and scoured the internet in search of a pattern. I've seen the following on a few different sites: _________________________________ | | \/ | | -----------| |------------ \| |/ | | | | /| |\ / | /\ | \ / | / \ | \ / | | | | \ / | | | | \ / | | | | \ _____|_|____|_|_____ Note that the piece in the lower center is a gore, and is supposed to be shaped like a triangle, not a rocket, but my ascii art skills are weak. So, there is a gore on either side, and one in the front and one in the back, attached to a rectangular main section. Now, it seems to me that the gore in the front (and possibly the one in the back) would look a bit odd and would bunch up between the wearer's legs. Does anyone have firsthand experience with wearing one of these, and do they bunch or look odd? Is there some other pattern that would be more appropriate? I'm not looking for an actual sewing pattern, as I don't think this garment should be complicated enough to require my purchasing an actual pattern. Anyway, any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Holly From andrew.nicholson@dumgal.gov.uk Mon, 8 Apr 2002 16:26:36 +0100 Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 16:26:36 +0100 From: andrew.nicholson@dumgal.gov.uk andrew.nicholson@dumgal.gov.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] undertunic This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C1DF11.C5C00B60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Holly, Your ascii art skills are way ahead of mine.=20 The gores are correct - triangular and up to around the waist. Don't = worry, they hang fine. We tend to use elongated-diamond shaped gores for the armpit, but its mainly a matter of comfort and ease of use [in my case = a five foot eight wife warping up a 6 foot high loom, so lots of raised = arms]. Gu=F0rum =20 whose wife didn't mind woodshavings on the carpet, but drew the line at angle-grinding in the carpetted bathroom :-( > -----Original Message----- > From: Holly Fabre [mailto:hollyf@swcp.com] > Sent: 08 April 2002 16:02 > To: list-regia-na@lig.net > Subject: [Regia-NA] undertunic >=20 >=20 > Firstly, I want to thank everyone for the help with the weaving. I'm > looking into building a simple loom right now, but I am=20 > currently living > in a small appartment that is completely carpeted (why do=20 > they do that?) > so woodworking is, well, complicated. I miss my house and my=20 > woodshop, > *sigh*. >=20 > Anyway, I have another question: > I am trying to make a simple undertunic/chemise/chainse that would be > appropriate for the 12th century. This is my first attempt at, well, > sewing anything beyond a hem, actually. I bought some cheap fabric = to > throw together a prototype, and scoured the internet in=20 > search of a pattern. > I've seen the following on a few different sites: >=20 > _________________________________ > | | \/ | | > -----------| |------------ > \| |/ > | | > | | > /| |\ > / | /\ | \ > / | / \ | \ > / | | | | \ > / | | | | \ > / | | | | \ > _____|_|____|_|_____ >=20 > Note that the piece in the lower center is a gore, and is=20 > supposed to be > shaped like a triangle, not a rocket, but my ascii art skills=20 > are weak. > So, there is a gore on either side, and one in the front and=20 > one in the > back, attached to a rectangular main section. Now, it seems=20 > to me that > the gore in the front (and possibly the one in the back)=20 > would look a bit > odd and would bunch up between the wearer's legs. >=20 > Does anyone have firsthand experience with wearing one of=20 > these, and do > they bunch or look odd? Is there some other pattern that=20 > would be more > appropriate? I'm not looking for an actual sewing pattern, as I = don't > think this garment should be complicated enough to require my=20 > purchasing > an actual pattern. >=20 > Anyway, any help would be appreciated. >=20 > Thanks, > Holly >=20 > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na >=20 ------_=_NextPart_001_01C1DF11.C5C00B60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable RE: [Regia-NA] undertunic
Holly,

Your ascii art skills are way ahead of mine.

The gores are correct - triangular and up to around = the waist. Don't worry, they hang fine. We tend to use = elongated-diamond shaped gores for the armpit, but its mainly a matter = of comfort and ease of use [in my case a five foot eight wife warping = up a 6 foot high loom, so lots of raised arms].

Gu=F0rum
whose wife didn't mind woodshavings on the carpet, = but drew the line at angle-grinding in the carpetted bathroom = :-(

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Holly Fabre [mailto:hollyf@swcp.com]
> Sent: 08 April 2002 16:02
> To: list-regia-na@lig.net
> Subject: [Regia-NA] undertunic
>
>
> Firstly, I want to thank everyone for the help = with the weaving. I'm
> looking into building a simple loom right now, = but I am
> currently living
> in a small appartment that is completely = carpeted (why do
> they do that?)
> so woodworking is, well, complicated. I = miss my house and my
> woodshop,
> *sigh*.
>
> Anyway, I have another question:
> I am trying to make a simple = undertunic/chemise/chainse that would be
> appropriate for the 12th century. This is = my first attempt at, well,
> sewing anything beyond a hem, actually. I = bought some cheap fabric to
> throw together a prototype, and scoured the = internet in
> search of a pattern.
> I've seen the following on a few different = sites:
>
>      = _________________________________
>      = |          |   = \/   = |           |
>      = -----------|        = |------------
>          = ;      = \|        |/
>          = ;       = |        |
>          = ;       = |        |
>          = ;      = /|        |\
>          = ;     / |   /\   | \
>          = ;    / | / \ | \
>          = ;   /   | |    | |   = \
>          = ; /    | |    | |    = \
>          = ; /     | |    | = |     \
>          = ; _____|_|____|_|_____
>
> Note that the piece in the lower center is a = gore, and is
> supposed to be
> shaped like a triangle, not a rocket, but my = ascii art skills
> are weak.
> So, there is a gore on either side, and one in = the front and
> one in the
> back, attached to a rectangular main = section. Now, it seems
> to me that
> the gore in the front (and possibly the one in = the back)
> would look a bit
> odd and would bunch up between the wearer's = legs.
>
> Does anyone have firsthand experience with = wearing one of
> these, and do
> they bunch or look odd? Is there some = other pattern that
> would be more
> appropriate? I'm not looking for an = actual sewing pattern, as I don't
> think this garment should be complicated enough = to require my
> purchasing
> an actual pattern.
>
> Anyway, any help would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Holly
>
> = _______________________________________________
> list-regia-na mailing list
> list-regia-na@lig.net
> http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na<= /FONT>
>
------_=_NextPart_001_01C1DF11.C5C00B60-- From hollyf@swcp.com Mon, 8 Apr 2002 10:28:40 -0600 Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 10:28:40 -0600 From: Holly Fabre hollyf@swcp.com Subject: [Regia-NA] undertunic > > The gores are correct - triangular and up to around the waist. Don't worry, > they hang fine. Thanks, now I can cut without fear. Holly From garrett@pacbell.net Mon, 08 Apr 2002 09:55:01 -0700 Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 09:55:01 -0700 From: Jack Garrett garrett@pacbell.net Subject: [Regia-NA] undertunic Holly, I know you weren't asking for patterns, but I've been very happy with two sets I purchased from www.sewingcentral.com (1-888-262-3946) a few years ago. The ones I bought were: - Period Patterns No.16 Tunics, C. 650 - 1310 A.D. - Period Patterns No. 92 Capes and Tabards, C. 650 - 1650 A.D. Many of the patterns show the original illustration/tapestry/sculpture from which the pattern was taken, so they do have some provenance. (Obviously better with later medieval designs.) The patterns are copyright 1988, so take that into account, but my 10th Century tunic still works fine. Good luck, Ottar/Jack Holly Fabre wrote: > Firstly, I want to thank everyone for the help with the weaving. I'm > looking into building a simple loom right now, but I am currently living > in a small appartment that is completely carpeted (why do they do that?) > so woodworking is, well, complicated. I miss my house and my woodshop, > *sigh*. > > Anyway, I have another question: > I am trying to make a simple undertunic/chemise/chainse that would be > appropriate for the 12th century. This is my first attempt at, well, > sewing anything beyond a hem, actually. I bought some cheap fabric to > throw together a prototype, and scoured the internet in search of a pattern. > I've seen the following on a few different sites: > > _________________________________ > | | \/ | | > -----------| |------------ > \| |/ > | | > | | > /| |\ > / | /\ | \ > / | / \ | \ > / | | | | \ > / | | | | \ > / | | | | \ > _____|_|____|_|_____ > > Note that the piece in the lower center is a gore, and is supposed to be > shaped like a triangle, not a rocket, but my ascii art skills are weak. > So, there is a gore on either side, and one in the front and one in the > back, attached to a rectangular main section. Now, it seems to me that > the gore in the front (and possibly the one in the back) would look a bit > odd and would bunch up between the wearer's legs. > > Does anyone have firsthand experience with wearing one of these, and do > they bunch or look odd? Is there some other pattern that would be more > appropriate? I'm not looking for an actual sewing pattern, as I don't > think this garment should be complicated enough to require my purchasing > an actual pattern. > > Anyway, any help would be appreciated. > > Thanks, > Holly > > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na From dsunlin@hotmail.com Mon, 08 Apr 2002 09:59:32 -0700 Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 09:59:32 -0700 From: Douglas Sunlin dsunlin@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] undertunic Hail Ottar, fancy meeting you here! I have made tunics from a pattern (11th century man)furnished by them, but it integrates the gores into the "body" piece so that one must cut out a HUGE piece to make that work, possibly sideways to fit on the fabric. It also has a yoke with a seam across the middle of the chest. Not impossible given the strangeness of the Viborg tunic, but not well-documented either, so beware. I recently got a pattern from Fleur de Lyse through Five River Chapmanry, which, though Norman-biased, seems pretty accurate. Oswald <><><> <><><> <><><> >From: Jack Garrett >Reply-To: list-regia-na@lig.net >To: list-regia-na@lig.net >Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] undertunic >Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 09:55:01 -0700 > >Holly, > >I know you weren't asking for patterns, but I've been very happy with two >sets I >purchased from www.sewingcentral.com (1-888-262-3946) a few years ago. The >ones >I bought were: > - Period Patterns No.16 Tunics, C. 650 - 1310 A.D. > - Period Patterns No. 92 Capes and Tabards, C. 650 - 1650 A.D. > >Many of the patterns show the original illustration/tapestry/sculpture from >which the pattern was taken, so they do have some provenance. (Obviously >better >with later medieval designs.) The patterns are copyright 1988, so take >that >into account, but my 10th Century tunic still works fine. > >Good luck, > >Ottar/Jack > >Holly Fabre wrote: > > > Firstly, I want to thank everyone for the help with the weaving. I'm > > looking into building a simple loom right now, but I am currently living > > in a small appartment that is completely carpeted (why do they do that?) > > so woodworking is, well, complicated. I miss my house and my woodshop, > > *sigh*. > > > > Anyway, I have another question: > > I am trying to make a simple undertunic/chemise/chainse that would be > > appropriate for the 12th century. This is my first attempt at, well, > > sewing anything beyond a hem, actually. I bought some cheap fabric to > > throw together a prototype, and scoured the internet in search of a >pattern. > > I've seen the following on a few different sites: > > > > _________________________________ > > | | \/ | | > > -----------| |------------ > > \| |/ > > | | > > | | > > /| |\ > > / | /\ | \ > > / | / \ | \ > > / | | | | \ > > / | | | | \ > > / | | | | \ > > _____|_|____|_|_____ > > > > Note that the piece in the lower center is a gore, and is supposed to be > > shaped like a triangle, not a rocket, but my ascii art skills are weak. > > So, there is a gore on either side, and one in the front and one in the > > back, attached to a rectangular main section. Now, it seems to me that > > the gore in the front (and possibly the one in the back) would look a >bit > > odd and would bunch up between the wearer's legs. > > > > Does anyone have firsthand experience with wearing one of these, and do > > they bunch or look odd? Is there some other pattern that would be more > > appropriate? I'm not looking for an actual sewing pattern, as I don't > > think this garment should be complicated enough to require my purchasing > > an actual pattern. > > > > Anyway, any help would be appreciated. > > > > Thanks, > > Holly > > > > _______________________________________________ > > list-regia-na mailing list > > list-regia-na@lig.net > > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > >_______________________________________________ >list-regia-na mailing list >list-regia-na@lig.net >http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na <><><> <><><> <><><> Beoð ge gesunde, Oswald of Baldurstrand http://groups.yahoo.com/group/California_Viking_Age http://www.geocities.com/baldurstrand/ _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From t_neill@hotmail.com Mon, 08 Apr 2002 17:03:52 +0000 Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 17:03:52 +0000 From: Terry L. Neill t_neill@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] undertunic > > _________________________________ > > | | \/ | | > > -----------| |------------ > > \| |/ > > | | > > | | > > /| |\ > > / | /\ | \ > > / | / \ | \ > > / | | | | \ > > / | | | | \ > > / | | | | \ > > _____|_|____|_|_____ > > One thing about gores, for those who's sewing experience only includes helms. ;-) Setting them in can be a pain in the butt if you don't allow for proper seam allowances. Let's pretend that your seam allowance is 2 centimetres. When I make the gores, I start with a rectangle and measure in TWICE the seam allowance on each end (1 and 2), then draw a diagonal line thus: 1_________ | \ | | \ B | | \ | | \ | | \ | | A \ | | \ | |________\_| 2 OR to state it another way: notice the flat space at the top of gore part A, and the bottom of gore part B? That flat space is TWICE your seam allowance (in this case, 4 centimetres). Flip the gore parts so that the straight parts are together, sew together into a triangle (thus using 1 part of your seam allowance on each gore part. _A_ / | \ / | \ / | \ / | \ / | \ /______|______\ Viola! One Gore. The top of the gore, where the A is, is now 4 centimetres--or twice your seam allowance. (Before you sewed the two pieces together, you had 8 centimetres, but the sewing together on the seam allowance used up 2 centimetres on each piece of gore.) As you set the gore into your tunic, you will use up the remaining two seam allowances, **This allows your gores to come to a point as it is being sewn in!** Very important. If you make your gore pointy instead of flat at the top to begin with, you won't have proper seam allowance when sewing in the gore. A terrible headache, especially when sewing with linen or unfulled wool. - Anarra/Terry _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From garrett@pacbell.net Mon, 08 Apr 2002 10:59:22 -0700 Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 10:59:22 -0700 From: Jack Garrett garrett@pacbell.net Subject: [Regia-NA] undertunic Oswald, I've made four tunics from the same pattern and I've never had to turn the material sideways. I'll probably try inserting a gore into the next one I make just to see if it fits any better and/or conserves material (it may.) Keep in mind that a triangular gore doesn't automatically save material. You have to sew together and invert the remaining pieces (probably in the back) to save much, if any. And I'm not convinced that's very accurate, either. My tunic doesn't have a seam across the chest, so I'm still comfortable with its design. Ottar Douglas Sunlin wrote: > Hail Ottar, fancy meeting you here! > > I have made tunics from a pattern (11th century man)furnished by them, but > it integrates the gores into the "body" piece so that one must cut out a > HUGE piece to make that work, possibly sideways to fit on the fabric. It > also has a yoke with a seam across the middle of the chest. Not impossible > given the strangeness of the Viborg tunic, but not well-documented either, > so beware. I recently got a pattern from Fleur de Lyse through Five River > Chapmanry, which, though Norman-biased, seems pretty accurate. > > Oswald > <><><> <><><> <><><> > > >From: Jack Garrett > >Reply-To: list-regia-na@lig.net > >To: list-regia-na@lig.net > >Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] undertunic > >Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 09:55:01 -0700 > > > >Holly, > > > >I know you weren't asking for patterns, but I've been very happy with two > >sets I > >purchased from www.sewingcentral.com (1-888-262-3946) a few years ago. The > >ones > >I bought were: > > - Period Patterns No.16 Tunics, C. 650 - 1310 A.D. > > - Period Patterns No. 92 Capes and Tabards, C. 650 - 1650 A.D. > > > >Many of the patterns show the original illustration/tapestry/sculpture from > >which the pattern was taken, so they do have some provenance. (Obviously > >better > >with later medieval designs.) The patterns are copyright 1988, so take > >that > >into account, but my 10th Century tunic still works fine. > > > >Good luck, > > > >Ottar/Jack > > > >Holly Fabre wrote: > > > > > Firstly, I want to thank everyone for the help with the weaving. I'm > > > looking into building a simple loom right now, but I am currently living > > > in a small appartment that is completely carpeted (why do they do that?) > > > so woodworking is, well, complicated. I miss my house and my woodshop, > > > *sigh*. > > > > > > Anyway, I have another question: > > > I am trying to make a simple undertunic/chemise/chainse that would be > > > appropriate for the 12th century. This is my first attempt at, well, > > > sewing anything beyond a hem, actually. I bought some cheap fabric to > > > throw together a prototype, and scoured the internet in search of a > >pattern. > > > I've seen the following on a few different sites: > > > > > > _________________________________ > > > | | \/ | | > > > -----------| |------------ > > > \| |/ > > > | | > > > | | > > > /| |\ > > > / | /\ | \ > > > / | / \ | \ > > > / | | | | \ > > > / | | | | \ > > > / | | | | \ > > > _____|_|____|_|_____ > > > > > > Note that the piece in the lower center is a gore, and is supposed to be > > > shaped like a triangle, not a rocket, but my ascii art skills are weak. > > > So, there is a gore on either side, and one in the front and one in the > > > back, attached to a rectangular main section. Now, it seems to me that > > > the gore in the front (and possibly the one in the back) would look a > >bit > > > odd and would bunch up between the wearer's legs. > > > > > > Does anyone have firsthand experience with wearing one of these, and do > > > they bunch or look odd? Is there some other pattern that would be more > > > appropriate? I'm not looking for an actual sewing pattern, as I don't > > > think this garment should be complicated enough to require my purchasing > > > an actual pattern. > > > > > > Anyway, any help would be appreciated. > > > > > > Thanks, > > > Holly > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > list-regia-na mailing list > > > list-regia-na@lig.net > > > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > > >_______________________________________________ > >list-regia-na mailing list > >list-regia-na@lig.net > >http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > <><><> <><><> <><><> > Beoð ge gesunde, > Oswald of Baldurstrand > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/California_Viking_Age > http://www.geocities.com/baldurstrand/ > > _________________________________________________________________ > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na From gythe@snrd.freeserve.co.uk Mon, 8 Apr 2002 19:29:42 +0100 Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 19:29:42 +0100 From: Hazel Uzzell gythe@snrd.freeserve.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] Tom This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00D1_01C1DF33.BBB4D0C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi there, this message is for Tom Sweeting, just in case I have the = wrong mailing address... Have you received the madder and woad yarn samples that I sent yet? If not, let me know and I will try again. Regards, Hazel ------=_NextPart_000_00D1_01C1DF33.BBB4D0C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi there, this message is for Tom = Sweeting, just in=20 case I have the wrong mailing address...

Have you received the madder and woad = yarn samples=20 that I sent yet?

If not, let me know and I will try=20 again.

Regards, = Hazel
------=_NextPart_000_00D1_01C1DF33.BBB4D0C0-- From dsunlin@hotmail.com Mon, 08 Apr 2002 11:42:28 -0700 Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 11:42:28 -0700 From: Douglas Sunlin dsunlin@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] undertunic Ottar: Well, keep in mind that the looms in that period were not very wide, and that everything was done by hand. Thus, one would be loathe to waste material. That's my take on it. >From: Jack Garrett >Reply-To: list-regia-na@lig.net >To: list-regia-na@lig.net >Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] undertunic >Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 10:59:22 -0700 > >Oswald, > >I've made four tunics from the same pattern and I've never had to turn the >material sideways. > >I'll probably try inserting a gore into the next one I make just to see if >it >fits any better and/or conserves material (it may.) Keep in mind that a >triangular gore doesn't automatically save material. You have to sew >together >and invert the remaining pieces (probably in the back) to save much, if >any. >And I'm not convinced that's very accurate, either. > >My tunic doesn't have a seam across the chest, so I'm still comfortable >with its >design. > >Ottar > >Douglas Sunlin wrote: > > > Hail Ottar, fancy meeting you here! > > > > I have made tunics from a pattern (11th century man)furnished by them, >but > > it integrates the gores into the "body" piece so that one must cut out a > > HUGE piece to make that work, possibly sideways to fit on the fabric. It > > also has a yoke with a seam across the middle of the chest. Not >impossible > > given the strangeness of the Viborg tunic, but not well-documented >either, > > so beware. I recently got a pattern from Fleur de Lyse through Five >River > > Chapmanry, which, though Norman-biased, seems pretty accurate. > > > > Oswald > > <><><> <><><> <><><> > > > > >From: Jack Garrett > > >Reply-To: list-regia-na@lig.net > > >To: list-regia-na@lig.net > > >Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] undertunic > > >Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 09:55:01 -0700 > > > > > >Holly, > > > > > >I know you weren't asking for patterns, but I've been very happy with >two > > >sets I > > >purchased from www.sewingcentral.com (1-888-262-3946) a few years ago. >The > > >ones > > >I bought were: > > > - Period Patterns No.16 Tunics, C. 650 - 1310 A.D. > > > - Period Patterns No. 92 Capes and Tabards, C. 650 - 1650 A.D. > > > > > >Many of the patterns show the original illustration/tapestry/sculpture >from > > >which the pattern was taken, so they do have some provenance. >(Obviously > > >better > > >with later medieval designs.) The patterns are copyright 1988, so take > > >that > > >into account, but my 10th Century tunic still works fine. > > > > > >Good luck, > > > > > >Ottar/Jack > > > > > >Holly Fabre wrote: > > > > > > > Firstly, I want to thank everyone for the help with the weaving. >I'm > > > > looking into building a simple loom right now, but I am currently >living > > > > in a small appartment that is completely carpeted (why do they do >that?) > > > > so woodworking is, well, complicated. I miss my house and my >woodshop, > > > > *sigh*. > > > > > > > > Anyway, I have another question: > > > > I am trying to make a simple undertunic/chemise/chainse that would >be > > > > appropriate for the 12th century. This is my first attempt at, >well, > > > > sewing anything beyond a hem, actually. I bought some cheap fabric >to > > > > throw together a prototype, and scoured the internet in search of a > > >pattern. > > > > I've seen the following on a few different sites: > > > > > > > > _________________________________ > > > > | | \/ | | > > > > -----------| |------------ > > > > \| |/ > > > > | | > > > > | | > > > > /| |\ > > > > / | /\ | \ > > > > / | / \ | \ > > > > / | | | | \ > > > > / | | | | \ > > > > / | | | | \ > > > > _____|_|____|_|_____ > > > > > > > > Note that the piece in the lower center is a gore, and is supposed >to be > > > > shaped like a triangle, not a rocket, but my ascii art skills are >weak. > > > > So, there is a gore on either side, and one in the front and one in >the > > > > back, attached to a rectangular main section. Now, it seems to me >that > > > > the gore in the front (and possibly the one in the back) would look >a > > >bit > > > > odd and would bunch up between the wearer's legs. > > > > > > > > Does anyone have firsthand experience with wearing one of these, and >do > > > > they bunch or look odd? Is there some other pattern that would be >more > > > > appropriate? I'm not looking for an actual sewing pattern, as I >don't > > > > think this garment should be complicated enough to require my >purchasing > > > > an actual pattern. > > > > > > > > Anyway, any help would be appreciated. > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > Holly > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > list-regia-na mailing list > > > > list-regia-na@lig.net > > > > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > >list-regia-na mailing list > > >list-regia-na@lig.net > > >http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > > > <><><> <><><> <><><> > > Beoð ge gesunde, > > Oswald of Baldurstrand > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/California_Viking_Age > > http://www.geocities.com/baldurstrand/ > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: > > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > > > _______________________________________________ > > list-regia-na mailing list > > list-regia-na@lig.net > > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > >_______________________________________________ >list-regia-na mailing list >list-regia-na@lig.net >http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na <><><> <><><> <><><> Beoð ge gesunde, Oswald of Baldurstrand http://groups.yahoo.com/group/California_Viking_Age http://www.geocities.com/baldurstrand/ _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From greenshield@hotmail.com Mon, 08 Apr 2002 20:00:43 +0000 Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 20:00:43 +0000 From: Green Shield greenshield@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] gambeson & Akitons Anyone have or know wher I can get a good pattern for a gambeson? I've got 15 yards of good heavy linen and I'm itching to try my hand at making one to go with my new hauberk. Any suggestions? Scott _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From kimberly@ka9q.net Mon, 08 Apr 2002 13:08:22 -0700 Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 13:08:22 -0700 From: Kimberly Karn kimberly@ka9q.net Subject: [Regia-NA] undertunic I have made several of these and they are very comfortable. No the front gore does not trip you up, but rather improves the drape of the skirt. I cheat and add extra seam allowance into the main part of the tunic so that I can set the front and back gore into a seam. This means I have more pieces to sew together but it's sure easier to sew the gore into my tunics. I added to your ascii art below to show you. Just remember to add some more room for the seam allowance. The patterns for these tunics are very forgiving and they only use about 3.5 yards of fabric. Once you make one or two you will find they are really easy to make What pattern are you using? I use the one at reconstructinghistorycom. I love these outfits and think they are indeed very comfie. I wonder why the hell I ever did Elizabethan dress now. The only problem I have while using this pattern is that I am short waisted and the gores come out way too long if I follow the directions blindly. I had to add a yoke to the thing at 2AM the night before an event. Good luck Kimberly At 09:02 AM 4/8/02 -0600, you wrote: > _________________________________ > | | \/ | | > -----------| l |------------ > \| l |/ > | l | > | l | > /| l |\ > / | /\ | \ > / | / \ | \ > / | | | | \ > / | | | | \ > / | | | | \ > l____l_|__|_|____| "We are the origins of war, not history's forces nor the times nor justice nor the lack of it nor causes nor religions nor ideas nor kinds of government nor any other thing. We are the killers we breed war... For the love of God, can't we love another just a little. That's how peace begins. We have so much to love each other for. We have such possibilities my children. We could change the world." Eleanor of Aquataine in the "Lion in Winter" From capriest@cs.vassar.edu Mon, 08 Apr 2002 20:55:57 -0400 Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 20:55:57 -0400 From: Carolyn Priest-Dorman capriest@cs.vassar.edu Subject: [Regia-NA] undertunic Oswald wrote: >Well, keep in mind that the looms in that period were not very wide,=20 It is important not to get sucked into the costumers' trope about narrow loom widths being the only period-correct option, because it ain't necessarily so, especially in the Regia period which pre-dates the dominance of the horizontal treadle loom in northwest Europe. Quite the contrary: some textiles woven on the warp-weighted loom measured two meters or so in width. On the other hand, others woven using the same technology were a mere 4-5" inches in width. I think that there were probably a few basically standard widths (or algorithms for figuring widths) used, depending on whether one was weaving a blanket, cloak, legwrappers, or cloth for a tunic or trousers. While one would still be loath to waste the woven product (geometric construction just plain makes sense!), I think each woven product was also optimized for a particular usage.=20 I don't remember what I didn't like about the Period Patterns tunic set, because I can't locate mine. I think I disliked it so much that I lent it to someone. Permanently. (I do seem to remember all sorts of seams in what I recall as the wrong places, like vertically down the whole front of the tunic.) Carolyn Priest-Dorman =DE=F3ra Sharptooth http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/thora.html "Never trust anything that can think for itself if you can't see where it keeps its brain."=20 -- J.K. Rowling From CRMayhew@hotmail.com Tue, 9 Apr 2002 13:27:43 -0400 Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 13:27:43 -0400 From: Charlotte Mayhew CRMayhew@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] felted wool balls This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00F3_01C1DFCA.54579BA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Just wondering if anyone can tell me how to make felted wool balls as a = children's activity? Or refer me to a source that can tell me how to do so? Thanks very much! --charlotte mayhew ------=_NextPart_000_00F3_01C1DFCA.54579BA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Just wondering if anyone can tell me = how to make=20 felted wool balls as a children's activity?

Or refer me to a source that can tell = me how to do=20 so?

Thanks very much!

--charlotte = mayhew
------=_NextPart_000_00F3_01C1DFCA.54579BA0-- From gythe@snrd.freeserve.co.uk Tue, 9 Apr 2002 20:30:07 +0100 Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 20:30:07 +0100 From: Hazel Uzzell gythe@snrd.freeserve.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] felted wool balls This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003B_01C1E005.56899500 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Charlotte, This is from p6 of the 'Fibrecrafts' catalogue. Take a good handfull of wool fibre. Add coloured wool and woollen yarn = making a total weight up to 250gms for a hand sized ball. Tease the wool = open and fluff it up to a consistent mix, and shape it into a ball, with = the coloured wools making a surface pattern. Mix a tablespoon of soap powder, or 2 tablespoons of washing up liquid = into half a washing up bowl of hand hot water. Wet the outside of the = ball with the soapy liquid. Shape the wool into a ball and pat and = squeeze and roll it in the hands. Keep wetting, patting and squeezing until the felt hardens, about 10-20 = mins. Put the ball in a warm place to dry. Regards (and good luck) Hazel U. Just wondering if anyone can tell me how to make felted wool balls as a = children's activity? Or refer me to a source that can tell me how to do so? Thanks very much! --charlotte mayhew ------=_NextPart_000_003B_01C1E005.56899500 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi Charlotte,

This is from p6 of the 'Fibrecrafts'=20 catalogue.

Take a good handfull of wool fibre. Add = coloured wool and woollen yarn making = a total=20 weight up to 250gms for a hand sized ball. Tease the wool open and fluff = it up=20 to a consistent mix, and shape it into a ball, with the coloured wools = making a=20 surface pattern.

Mix a tablespoon of soap powder, or 2 = tablespoons=20 of washing up liquid into half a washing up bowl of hand hot water. Wet = the=20 outside of the ball with the soapy liquid. Shape the wool into a ball = and pat=20 and squeeze and roll it in the hands.

Keep wetting, patting and = squeezing until the=20 felt hardens, about 10-20 mins.

Put the ball in a warm place to = dry.

Regards (and good luck)

Hazel U.

Just wondering if anyone can tell me = how to make=20 felted wool balls as a children's activity?

Or refer me to a source that can tell = me how to=20 do so?

Thanks very much!

--charlotte=20 mayhew
------=_NextPart_000_003B_01C1E005.56899500-- From SchusterRL@umsystem.edu Tue, 9 Apr 2002 14:34:17 -0500 Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 14:34:17 -0500 From: Schuster, Robert L. SchusterRL@umsystem.edu Subject: [Regia-NA] felted wool balls This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C1DFFD.89E0E5AE Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable can i ask what is probably a really silly question? what exactly would you do with these? are they hard like marbles? =20 Halvgrimr probably been hit in the head one to many times -----Original Message----- From: Hazel Uzzell [mailto:gythe@snrd.freeserve.co.uk] Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 2:30 PM To: list-regia-na@lig.net Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] felted wool balls =20 Hi Charlotte, This is from p6 of the 'Fibrecrafts' catalogue. Take a good handfull of wool fibre. Add coloured wool and woollen yarn = making a total weight up to 250gms for a hand sized ball. Tease the wool = open and fluff it up to a consistent mix, and shape it into a ball, with = the coloured wools making a surface pattern. Mix a tablespoon of soap powder, or 2 tablespoons of washing up liquid = into half a washing up bowl of hand hot water. Wet the outside of the = ball with the soapy liquid. Shape the wool into a ball and pat and = squeeze and roll it in the hands. Keep wetting, patting and squeezing until the felt hardens, about 10-20 = mins. Put the ball in a warm place to dry. Regards (and good luck) Hazel U. =20 =20 =20 Just wondering if anyone can tell me how to make felted wool balls as a = children's activity? Or refer me to a source that can tell me how to do so? =20 Thanks very much! --charlotte mayhew ------_=_NextPart_001_01C1DFFD.89E0E5AE Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
can i=20 ask what is probably a really silly question?

what=20 exactly would you do with these?

are=20 they hard like marbles?

Halvgrimr

probably been hit in the head one to many = times

-----Original Message-----
From: Hazel Uzzell=20 [mailto:gythe@snrd.freeserve.co.uk]
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, = 2002=20 2:30 PM
To: list-regia-na@lig.net
Subject: Re: = [Regia-NA]=20 felted wool balls

Hi Charlotte,

This is from p6 of the 'Fibrecrafts'=20 catalogue.

Take a good handfull of wool fibre. = Add=20 coloured wool and woollen yarn = making a total=20 weight up to 250gms for a hand sized ball. Tease the wool open and = fluff it up=20 to a consistent mix, and shape it into a ball, with the coloured wools = making=20 a surface pattern.

Mix a tablespoon of soap powder, or 2 = tablespoons=20 of washing up liquid into half a washing up bowl of hand hot water. = Wet the=20 outside of the ball with the soapy liquid. Shape the wool into a ball = and pat=20 and squeeze and roll it in the hands.

Keep wetting, patting and = squeezing until=20 the felt hardens, about 10-20 mins.

Put the ball in a warm place to = dry.

Regards (and good luck)

Hazel U.

Just wondering if anyone can tell me = how to make=20 felted wool balls as a children's activity?

Or refer me to a source that can = tell me how to=20 do so?

Thanks very much!

--charlotte=20 mayhew
------_=_NextPart_001_01C1DFFD.89E0E5AE-- From alisona@johanassocs.com Tue, 9 Apr 2002 12:42:42 -0700 Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 12:42:42 -0700 From: Alison Avery alisona@johanassocs.com Subject: [Regia-NA] felted wool balls This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0003_01C1DFC4.0A68A9E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have one of undyed wool that my parents picked up at a Shaker village, and it was intended to be a cat toy. Kittens especially like it, because it's kind of soft and gets fuzzy after repeated clawing and batting around. Plus it sticks to their claws a bit, causing a spaz attack and much meowing, at least at my house! This one isn't very hard, it's kind of like a denser version of a nerf ball. Asa -----Original Message----- From: list-regia-na-admin@lig.net [mailto:list-regia-na-admin@lig.net]On Behalf Of Schuster, Robert L. Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 12:34 PM To: list-regia-na@lig.net Subject: RE: [Regia-NA] felted wool balls can i ask what is probably a really silly question? what exactly would you do with these? are they hard like marbles? Halvgrimr probably been hit in the head one to many times -----Original Message----- From: Hazel Uzzell [mailto:gythe@snrd.freeserve.co.uk] Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 2:30 PM To: list-regia-na@lig.net Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] felted wool balls Hi Charlotte, This is from p6 of the 'Fibrecrafts' catalogue. Take a good handfull of wool fibre. Add coloured wool and woollen yarn making a total weight up to 250gms for a hand sized ball. Tease the wool open and fluff it up to a consistent mix, and shape it into a ball, with the coloured wools making a surface pattern. Mix a tablespoon of soap powder, or 2 tablespoons of washing up liquid into half a washing up bowl of hand hot water. Wet the outside of the ball with the soapy liquid. Shape the wool into a ball and pat and squeeze and roll it in the hands. Keep wetting, patting and squeezing until the felt hardens, about 10-20 mins. Put the ball in a warm place to dry. Regards (and good luck) Hazel U. Just wondering if anyone can tell me how to make felted wool balls as a children's activity? Or refer me to a source that can tell me how to do so? Thanks very much! --charlotte mayhew ------=_NextPart_000_0003_01C1DFC4.0A68A9E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have one of undyed wool that my parents = picked up at=20 a Shaker village, and it was intended to be a cat toy. Kittens = especially like=20 it, because it's kind of soft and gets fuzzy after repeated clawing and = batting=20 around. Plus it sticks to their claws a bit, causing a spaz attack and = much=20 meowing, at least at my house!

This one isn't very hard, it's kind of like a = denser=20 version of a nerf ball.

Asa

-----Original Message-----
From: = list-regia-na-admin@lig.net=20 [mailto:list-regia-na-admin@lig.net]On Behalf Of Schuster, = Robert=20 L.
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 12:34 PM
To:=20 list-regia-na@lig.net
Subject: RE: [Regia-NA] felted wool=20 balls

can=20 i ask what is probably a really silly question?

what=20 exactly would you do with these?

are=20 they hard like marbles?

Halvgrimr

probably been hit in the head one to many = times

-----Original Message-----
From: Hazel Uzzell=20 [mailto:gythe@snrd.freeserve.co.uk]
Sent: Tuesday, April = 09, 2002=20 2:30 PM
To: list-regia-na@lig.net
Subject: Re:=20 [Regia-NA] felted wool balls

Hi Charlotte,

This is from p6 of the = 'Fibrecrafts'=20 catalogue.

Take a good handfull of wool fibre. = Add=20 coloured wool and woollen yarn = making a total=20 weight up to 250gms for a hand sized ball. Tease the wool open and = fluff it=20 up to a consistent mix, and shape it into a ball, with the coloured = wools=20 making a surface pattern.

Mix a tablespoon of soap powder, or = 2=20 tablespoons of washing up liquid into half a washing up bowl of hand = hot=20 water. Wet the outside of the ball with the soapy liquid. Shape the = wool=20 into a ball and pat and squeeze and roll it in the = hands.

Keep wetting, patting and = squeezing until=20 the felt hardens, about 10-20 mins.

Put the ball in a warm place to=20 dry.

Regards (and good = luck)

Hazel U.

Just wondering if anyone can tell = me how to=20 make felted wool balls as a children's activity?

Or refer me to a source that can = tell me how=20 to do so?

Thanks very = much!

--charlotte=20 mayhew
------=_NextPart_000_0003_01C1DFC4.0A68A9E0-- From SchusterRL@umsystem.edu Tue, 9 Apr 2002 14:42:12 -0500 Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 14:42:12 -0500 From: Schuster, Robert L. SchusterRL@umsystem.edu Subject: [Regia-NA] felted wool balls This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C1DFFE.A4B53DCE Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable --ahh i read to much into the "let harden" part Halvgrimr imagining pellet like things =20 =20 -----Original Message----- From: Alison Avery [mailto:alisona@johanassocs.com] Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 2:43 PM To: list-regia-na@lig.net Subject: RE: [Regia-NA] felted wool balls I have one of undyed wool that my parents picked up at a Shaker village, = and it was intended to be a cat toy. Kittens especially like it, because = it's kind of soft and gets fuzzy after repeated clawing and batting = around. Plus it sticks to their claws a bit, causing a spaz attack and = much meowing, at least at my house! =20 This one isn't very hard, it's kind of like a denser version of a nerf = ball. Asa =20 ------_=_NextPart_001_01C1DFFE.A4B53DCE Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
--ahh

i read=20 to much into the "let harden" part

Halvgrimr

imagining pellet like = things

-----Original Message-----
From: Alison Avery=20 [mailto:alisona@johanassocs.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, = 2002 2:43=20 PM
To: list-regia-na@lig.net
Subject: RE: = [Regia-NA]=20 felted wool balls

I have one of undyed wool that my parents = picked up=20 at a Shaker village, and it was intended to be a cat toy. Kittens = especially=20 like it, because it's kind of soft and gets fuzzy after repeated = clawing and=20 batting around. Plus it sticks to their claws a bit, causing a spaz = attack and=20 much meowing, at least at my house!

This one isn't very hard, it's kind of like = a denser=20 version of a nerf ball.

Asa

------_=_NextPart_001_01C1DFFE.A4B53DCE-- From t_neill@hotmail.com Tue, 09 Apr 2002 19:43:12 +0000 Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 19:43:12 +0000 From: Terry L. Neill t_neill@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] felted wool balls >Keep wetting, patting and squeezing until the felt hardens, about 10-20 >mins. >Put the ball in a warm place to dry. >Regards (and good luck) >Hazel U. Don't forget, with all that wetting and patting and squeezing, to make sure you're rinsing all the soap out before you let the ball dry. - Anarra/Terry _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From aodhagan_mac_murchada@yahoo.com Tue, 9 Apr 2002 16:36:44 -0700 (PDT) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 16:36:44 -0700 (PDT) From: Sean Murphy aodhagan_mac_murchada@yahoo.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Tunic question Greetings, I have a question about making a tunic. I took a basic tunic pattern and made a linen under tunic. The tunic is rather "baggy", and the shoulder seams hang half way down my upper arms. I checked my measurements, and everything seems fine. Is this how the tunic is supposed to fit? Most people I see, wearing Anglo-Saxon, seem to have a better fit, and the shoulders don't hang so low. Every adjustment I try, just makes to tunic way to tight in the chest. What did I do wrong, if anything? Aodhagan P.S.: I should add, that this was my first attempt at making any kind of clothing. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From kimberly@ka9q.net Tue, 09 Apr 2002 16:49:13 -0700 Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 16:49:13 -0700 From: Kimberly Karn kimberly@ka9q.net Subject: [Regia-NA] felted wool balls At 02:34 PM 4/9/02 -0500, you wrote: >can i ask what is probably a really silly question? >what exactly would you do with these? >are they hard like marbles? I never made them personally but my sister uses them as cat toys. Kimberly/Roisin "We are the origins of war, not history's forces nor the times nor justice nor the lack of it nor causes nor religions nor ideas nor kinds of government nor any other thing. We are the killers we breed war... For the love of God, can't we love another just a little. That's how peace begins. We have so much to love each other for. We have such possibilities my children. We could change the world." Eleanor of Aquataine in the "Lion in Winter" From sudnserv5@netway.com Wed, 10 Apr 2002 00:04:35 -0400 Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 00:04:35 -0400 From: Sudden Service #5 sudnserv5@netway.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Fw: [Norsefolk] Norse by Northeast - This Sunday! This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00C4_01C1E023.4C8FBC50 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hej! =20 Since this is happening at my house I get to invite any of you who = are near by (Boston Suburbs) to come join us. Pax, Olaf ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Gale Langseth=20 To: norsefolk@yahoogroups.com=20 Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 9:22 PM Subject: [Norsefolk] Norse by Northeast - This Sunday! Looking for a good box to hold the things you want to bring to an event? Looking for a new seat so you can help row a longboat? Looking for a good end table in a Viking style? Come to Norse by Northeast this Sunday, where Peregrine the Illuminator will be talking about the Mastermyr Toolchest and other Viking-age chests, and providing information on how you can make your own. If you've made a Viking-age chest, please feel free to bring it along: the more examples we have, the better! The meeting will be held at 6.30 pm on this Sunday, 14 April, at Olaf's, in Holliston, MA. For directions, send a blank email to my autoresponder: norsefolk@norsefolk.com.=20 We welcome any and all early-period persona folk, even the non-Norse. With these monthly meetings, we hope to help everyone get together a kit of accoutrements that makes them really look as though they are their early-period persona. We've already had presentations on tablet weaving, beads, and various other crafts. We soon plan to have workshops on whetstones and wax writing tablets. YIS, Lady Sigrid Thorvaldsdottir ------=_NextPart_000_00C4_01C1E023.4C8FBC50 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hej!

    Since this is = happening at my=20 house I get to invite any of you who are near by (Boston Suburbs) to = come join=20 us.

Pax,

Olaf

----- Original Message -----=20
From: Gale = Langseth

To: norsefolk@yahoogroups.com =

Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 9:22 PM

Subject: [Norsefolk] Norse by Northeast - This = Sunday!

Looking for a good box to hold the things you = want to=20 bring to an event? Looking for a new seat so you can help row a=20 longboat? Looking for a good end table in a Viking style? Come to = Norse by=20 Northeast this Sunday, where Peregrine the Illuminator will be = talking about=20 the Mastermyr Toolchest and other Viking-age chests, and providing=20 information on how you can make your own. If you've made a Viking-age = chest,=20 please feel free to bring it along: the more examples we have, the=20 better! The meeting will be held at 6.30 pm on this Sunday, 14=20 April, at Olaf's, in Holliston, MA. For directions, send a blank = email to=20 my autoresponder: norsefolk@norsefolk.com. We welcome any and = all=20 early-period persona folk, even the non-Norse. With these monthly = meetings,=20 we hope to help everyone get together a kit of accoutrements that = makes them=20 really look as though they are their early-period persona. We've = already had=20 presentations on tablet weaving, beads, and various other crafts. We = soon=20 plan to have workshops on whetstones and wax writing=20 tablets. YIS, Lady Sigrid=20 Thorvaldsdottir ------=_NextPart_000_00C4_01C1E023.4C8FBC50-- From william.tate@mildenhall.af.mil Wed, 10 Apr 2002 07:54:07 -0000 Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 07:54:07 -0000 From: Tate William T Jr SSgt 352 OSS/SCSC william.tate@mildenhall.af.mil Subject: [Regia-NA] felted wool balls This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C1E064.E4132236 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Nancy Spies passed some info to me once about making balls. If you aren't planning on doing this on-site and for a little less messy and less strenuous method... Follow the other "recipes" to get a shape. Then take the proto-balls and an old pair of pantyhose and insert a ball down to the toe and knot-off, repeat with other balls up through the leg. Throw the entire thing into the washer and run through a regular cycle, with soap, and the results are pretty compact balls once dried. They are great for period kids toys. Bill/Leifr -----Original Message----- From: Charlotte Mayhew [mailto:CRMayhew@hotmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 6:28 PM To: list-regia-na@lig.net Subject: [Regia-NA] felted wool balls Just wondering if anyone can tell me how to make felted wool balls as a children's activity? Or refer me to a source that can tell me how to do so? Thanks very much! --charlotte mayhew ------_=_NextPart_001_01C1E064.E4132236 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
Nancy Spies passed some info to me once about making balls.

If you aren't planning on doing this on-site and for a little less messy and less strenuous method...

Follow the other "recipes" to get a shape.  Then take the proto-balls and an old pair of pantyhose and insert a ball down to the toe and knot-off, repeat with other balls up through the leg. Throw the entire thing into the washer and run through a regular cycle, with soap, and the results are pretty compact balls once dried.

They are great for period kids toys.

Bill/Leifr

-----Original Message-----
From: Charlotte Mayhew [mailto:CRMayhew@hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 6:28 PM
To: list-regia-na@lig.net
Subject: [Regia-NA] felted wool balls

Just wondering if anyone can tell me how to make felted wool balls as a children's activity?

Or refer me to a source that can tell me how to do so?

Thanks very much!

--charlotte mayhew
------_=_NextPart_001_01C1E064.E4132236-- From dsunlin@hotmail.com Wed, 10 Apr 2002 09:39:35 -0700 Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 09:39:35 -0700 From: Douglas Sunlin dsunlin@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] felted wool balls I believe the idea is to demonstrate the process of making felt, rather than to make something useful with it. A fabric art tailor-made for children's attention spans. Though one could make innersoles for shoes... <><><> <><><> <><><> Beoð ge gesunde, Oswald of Baldurstrand http://groups.yahoo.com/group/California_Viking_Age http://www.geocities.com/baldurstrand/ <><><> <><><> <><><> >From: Tate William T Jr SSgt 352 OSS/SCSC >Reply-To: list-regia-na@lig.net >To: list-regia-na@lig.net >Subject: RE: [Regia-NA] felted wool balls >Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 07:54:07 -0000 > >Nancy Spies passed some info to me once about making balls. > >If you aren't planning on doing this on-site and for a little less messy >and >less strenuous method... > >Follow the other "recipes" to get a shape. Then take the proto-balls and >an >old pair of pantyhose and insert a ball down to the toe and knot-off, >repeat >with other balls up through the leg. Throw the entire thing into the >washer >and run through a regular cycle, with soap, and the results are pretty >compact balls once dried. > >They are great for period kids toys. > >Bill/Leifr > > > >-----Original Message----- >From: Charlotte Mayhew [mailto:CRMayhew@hotmail.com] >Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 6:28 PM >To: list-regia-na@lig.net >Subject: [Regia-NA] felted wool balls > > >Just wondering if anyone can tell me how to make felted wool balls as a >children's activity? >Or refer me to a source that can tell me how to do so? > >Thanks very much! > >--charlotte mayhew > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From dsunlin@hotmail.com Wed, 10 Apr 2002 09:53:02 -0700 Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 09:53:02 -0700 From: Douglas Sunlin dsunlin@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Tunic question Aodhagan, there appear to have been many "cuts" of tunics, almost on a par with the hats of Bartholomew Cubbins. ;> The shoulder seam may be set-in as is a modern shirt, or the body of the tunic may be a big square bag, so the shoulder seam is halfway down the upper arm. Of course it varied by century and location, but it would be reasonable to make a linen undertunic close-fitted (like the surviving tunic of St Louis) and the over tunic roomy. Make sense? <><><> <><><> <><><> Beoð ge gesunde, Oswald of Baldurstrand http://groups.yahoo.com/group/California_Viking_Age http://www.geocities.com/baldurstrand/ >From: Sean Murphy >Reply-To: list-regia-na@lig.net >To: Anglorum Regia >Subject: [Regia-NA] Tunic question >Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 16:36:44 -0700 (PDT) > >Greetings, > I have a question about making a tunic. I took a >basic tunic pattern and made a linen under tunic. The >tunic is rather "baggy", and the shoulder seams hang >half way down my upper arms. I checked my >measurements, and everything seems fine. Is this how >the tunic is supposed to fit? Most people I see, >wearing Anglo-Saxon, seem to have a better fit, and >the shoulders don't hang so low. Every adjustment I >try, just makes to tunic way to tight in the chest. >What did I do wrong, if anything? > Aodhagan > >P.S.: I should add, that this was my first attempt at >making any kind of clothing. > _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From CRMayhew@hotmail.com Wed, 10 Apr 2002 15:01:05 -0400 Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 15:01:05 -0400 From: Charlotte Mayhew CRMayhew@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] felted wool balls This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C1E0A0.89BF7660 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Thanks very much! And in response to the what-do-you-do-with-these posts: What do children do with regular balls--nerf, tennis, etc.? Throw them, catch them, play games... (I got one last year at Pennsic for use as a pin cushion and it was quickly stolen by my children.) --charlotte mayhew ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Hazel Uzzell=20 To: list-regia-na@lig.net=20 Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 3:30 PM Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] felted wool balls Hi Charlotte, This is from p6 of the 'Fibrecrafts' catalogue. Take a good handfull of wool fibre. Add coloured wool and woollen yarn = making a total weight up to 250gms for a hand sized ball. Tease the wool = open and fluff it up to a consistent mix, and shape it into a ball, with = the coloured wools making a surface pattern. Mix a tablespoon of soap powder, or 2 tablespoons of washing up liquid = into half a washing up bowl of hand hot water. Wet the outside of the = ball with the soapy liquid. Shape the wool into a ball and pat and = squeeze and roll it in the hands. Keep wetting, patting and squeezing until the felt hardens, about = 10-20 mins. Put the ball in a warm place to dry. Regards (and good luck) Hazel U. Just wondering if anyone can tell me how to make felted wool balls as = a children's activity? Or refer me to a source that can tell me how to do so? Thanks very much! --charlotte mayhew ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C1E0A0.89BF7660 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Thanks very much!

And in response to the = what-do-you-do-with-these=20 posts:

What do children do with regular = balls--nerf,=20 tennis, etc.?

Throw them, catch them, play = games...

(I got one last year at Pennsic for use = as a pin=20 cushion

and it was quickly stolen by my=20 children.)

--charlotte mayhew

----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Hazel Uzzell
To: list-regia-na@lig.net

Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 = 3:30=20 PM

Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] felted = wool=20 balls

Hi Charlotte,

This is from p6 of the 'Fibrecrafts'=20 catalogue.

Take a good handfull of wool fibre. = Add=20 coloured wool and woollen yarn = making a total=20 weight up to 250gms for a hand sized ball. Tease the wool open and = fluff it up=20 to a consistent mix, and shape it into a ball, with the coloured wools = making=20 a surface pattern.

Mix a tablespoon of soap powder, or 2 = tablespoons=20 of washing up liquid into half a washing up bowl of hand hot water. = Wet the=20 outside of the ball with the soapy liquid. Shape the wool into a ball = and pat=20 and squeeze and roll it in the hands.

Keep wetting, patting and = squeezing until=20 the felt hardens, about 10-20 mins.

Put the ball in a warm place to = dry.

Regards (and good luck)

Hazel U.

Just wondering if anyone can tell me = how to make=20 felted wool balls as a children's activity?

Or refer me to a source that can = tell me how to=20 do so?

Thanks very much!

--charlotte=20 mayhew
------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C1E0A0.89BF7660-- From gythe@snrd.freeserve.co.uk Wed, 10 Apr 2002 20:26:30 +0100 Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 20:26:30 +0100 From: Hazel Uzzell gythe@snrd.freeserve.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] felted wool balls This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C1E0CD.FFCC9680 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have tried this method on several occasions...it works like a dream! Regards, Hazel U. Nancy Spies passed some info to me once about making balls. If you aren't planning on doing this on-site and for a little less = messy and less strenuous method... Follow the other "recipes" to get a shape. Then take the proto-balls = and an old pair of pantyhose and insert a ball down to the toe and = knot-off, repeat with other balls up through the leg. Throw the entire = thing into the washer and run through a regular cycle, with soap, and = the results are pretty compact balls once dried. They are great for period kids toys. Bill/Leifr -----Original Message----- From: Charlotte Mayhew [mailto:CRMayhew@hotmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 6:28 PM To: list-regia-na@lig.net Subject: [Regia-NA] felted wool balls Just wondering if anyone can tell me how to make felted wool balls = as a children's activity? Or refer me to a source that can tell me how to do so? Thanks very much! --charlotte mayhew ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C1E0CD.FFCC9680 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have tried this method on several = occasions...it=20 works like a dream!

Regards, Hazel U.

Nancy Spies passed some info to me once about making=20 balls.

If=20 you aren't planning on doing this on-site and for a little less messy = and less=20 strenuous method...

Follow the other "recipes" to get a shape.  Then = take the=20 proto-balls and an old pair of pantyhose and insert a ball down to the = toe and=20 knot-off, repeat with other balls up through the leg. Throw the = entire=20 thing into the washer and run through a regular cycle, with soap, and = the=20 results are pretty compact balls once dried.

They=20 are great for period kids toys.

Bill/Leifr

-----Original Message-----
From: Charlotte Mayhew = [mailto:CRMayhew@hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, = 2002 6:28=20 PM
To: list-regia-na@lig.net
Subject: [Regia-NA] = felted=20 wool balls

Just wondering if anyone can tell = me how to=20 make felted wool balls as a children's activity?

Or refer me to a source that can = tell me how to=20 do so?

Thanks very much!

--charlotte=20 mayhew
------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C1E0CD.FFCC9680-- From kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Wed, 10 Apr 2002 21:02:42 +0100 Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 21:02:42 +0100 From: J. K. Siddorn kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] felted wool balls Absolutely my favourite movie! Regards, Kim Siddorn. The early bird may get the worm - but the second mouse gets the cheese! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kimberly Karn" To: Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2002 12:49 AM Subject: RE: [Regia-NA] felted wool balls > At 02:34 PM 4/9/02 -0500, you wrote: > >can i ask what is probably a really silly question? > >what exactly would you do with these? > >are they hard like marbles? > > I never made them personally but my sister uses them as cat toys. > Kimberly/Roisin > "We are the origins of war, not history's forces nor the times nor justice > nor the lack of it nor causes nor religions nor ideas nor kinds of > government nor any other thing. We are the killers we breed war... For the > love of God, can't we love another just a little. That's how peace begins. > We have so much to love each other for. We have such possibilities my > children. We could change the world." Eleanor of Aquataine in the "Lion in > Winter" > > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > From capriest@cs.vassar.edu Thu, 11 Apr 2002 11:20:56 -0400 Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 11:20:56 -0400 From: Carolyn Priest-Dorman capriest@cs.vassar.edu Subject: [Regia-NA] Dates? Kim wrote: >>Can anyone give us a date for these please? Are they really Viking (say= 750 >>to 1150) or earlier/later? There are two examples of lyre-shaped frame pouches shown in Thunmark-Nylen's _Die Wikingerzeit Gotlands_ (Stockholm: Kungl. VitterhetsHistorie och Antikvitets Akadamien, 1998), vol. 2 ("Typentafeln"): one from Hangvar (SHM 2309) in the northwest and one from Eksta (SHM 8983) in the southwest. Both are coastal rather than inland locations. I can't locate either example in Thunmark-Nylen's vol. 1 ("Abbildungen der Grabfunde," 1995), though; puzzling and frustrating, because that means I can't see the grave goods associated with each example. Re dating, her introduction says (courtesy of Babelfish and my editing): "The depicted finds cover articles that are generally considered as Viking Age cultural objects, i.e. such artifacts as can be found in graves of a Viking Age character, even if these were created after the year 1050 (or 1100). Chronology and dating are treated more in detail in the following text [not yet published]." I'd call that "not entirely conclusive at the moment." ;> On the other hand, there are five more closely datable examples of lyre-shaped frame pouches from Birka, found in graves 798, 949, and 958, and from cremations 229 and maybe 368 (Birka I tafl. 128). In addition to a frame pouch, Mr. Birka 798 had a Rus style riding coat with a Type B hat; he's from around the start of the 10th century. Mr. Birka 944 had a Rus style riding coat with a Type B hat and a number of other Rus accoutrements; he's also 10th century. Mr. Birka 958 had silk and brocaded tablet woven clothing trimmings but no apparent riding coat or associated hat; he's also 10th century. I dunno about dating on the cremations, though, and there aren't any photos of the pieces from them in Birka I, II, or III. All examples appear to be quite small as re-enactor pouches go, and indeed Mr. Birka 958 might even have been wearing his in his armpit. The drawstring leather pouch from Grotlingbo is also pretty small (too small to hold an American pack of cigarettes, although big enough for car keys). Carolyn Priest-Dorman =DE=F3ra Sharptooth http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/thora.html "Never trust anything that can think for itself if you can't see where it keeps its brain."=20 -- J.K. Rowling From patchett@sympatico.ca Tue, 16 Apr 2002 13:47:43 -0400 Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 13:47:43 -0400 From: Patchett patchett@sympatico.ca Subject: [Regia-NA] Infomation needed Greetings all, Could someone please provide me with the date of the Chronicle that Hazel's 'Dye Equivalents' appears? I'm doing a little paper and wish to give credit where credit is due. Also, everyone on the list simply calls this publication the Chronicle, does it have a full, proper name? Many thanks Beth Patchett From snorri@vikingasaga.freeserve.co.uk Tue, 16 Apr 2002 19:14:44 +0100 Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 19:14:44 +0100 From: Ian Uzzell snorri@vikingasaga.freeserve.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] Infomation needed Dear Beth It was in Volume 11, Issue 4 (No 60) Winter 2000 - 01 on Page 9. It's full proper name is the "Chronicle" Hope this helps Ian Uzzell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Patchett" To: Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2002 6:47 PM Subject: [Regia-NA] Infomation needed > Greetings all, > > Could someone please provide me with the date of the Chronicle that > Hazel's 'Dye Equivalents' appears? I'm doing a little paper and wish to > give credit where credit is due. > > Also, everyone on the list simply calls this publication the Chronicle, > does it have a full, proper name? > > Many thanks > Beth Patchett > > > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > From kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Wed, 17 Apr 2002 11:10:28 +0100 Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 11:10:28 +0100 From: J. K. Siddorn kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] Infomation needed Yes, the full and proper name of "Chronicle" is "Chronicle"! Sometimes abbreviated to "Chronic" or sometimes "Comical". It is intended to reflect the AS Chronicle in title alone, as we are a multi-racial society! ;o)) Regards, Kim Siddorn. The early bird may get the worm - but the second mouse gets the cheese! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Patchett" To: Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2002 6:47 PM Subject: [Regia-NA] Infomation needed > Greetings all, > > Could someone please provide me with the date of the Chronicle that > Hazel's 'Dye Equivalents' appears? I'm doing a little paper and wish to > give credit where credit is due. > > Also, everyone on the list simply calls this publication the Chronicle, > does it have a full, proper name? > > Many thanks > Beth Patchett > > > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > From dsunlin@yahoo.com Wed, 17 Apr 2002 13:46:31 -0700 (PDT) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 13:46:31 -0700 (PDT) From: Douglas Sunlin dsunlin@yahoo.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths I know we've been over this recently, but I just got a chance to glimpse a copy of Esther Cameron's Sheaths and Scabbards in England AD400-1100 before I have to return it to the library (interlibrary loan you know). The illustrations of the leatherwork is very worthwhile, but she does not define very well the manner in which the sheaths were attached to the belt. A dozen sheaths from the 10th to 11th centuries are discussed and illustrated, but none has obvious facilities for attachment. Can it be a coincidence that none of them has survived while the sheaths proper have? Are we stuck with going back to previous centuries? What is the current re-enactor practice? __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Thu, 18 Apr 2002 00:11:52 +0100 Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 00:11:52 +0100 From: J. K. Siddorn kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] Chippenham This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0037_01C1E66D.A435AF50 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Here are the details for Chippenham at Mayday BH. Chronicle of course = contains all these details, but I thought you might like a preview . Regards, Kim Siddorn. The early bird may get the worm - but the second mouse gets the cheese!=20 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> A major Show for Chippenham Town Council =20 At Monkton Park in Chippenham, Wiltshire, Mayday Bank Holiday, 4th - 6th = May 2002 =20 Dateline, 878AD The history Chippenham is a town steeped in the history of the Viking invasions. = King Bergerond of Mercia married Alfred's sister here. Before Edington, = Guthrum's host occupied the town and retreated to the fortified town = again after loosing the battle. After a fortnight's siege, Guthrum = surrendered to King Alfred. The importance of the events that took place = in this place cannot be overestimated: it was the turning point in = Alfred's campaigns and his victory here allowed him to pursue the = re-conquest of the Danelaw, returning a good deal of England to his = kingship before his death nearly twenty years later and laying the = foundations of the English state for generations to come.=20 The site Behind the centre of town, the river runs through a picturesque valley, = bordering which Monkton Park stretches from flat ground by the river to = a steep slope overlooking what will be the battlefield and LHE sites. On = the river, a longship will be burned on Sunday evening. Military Major battles on all three days of the Spring Bank Holiday involving = Saxons and Vikings. This is an early event: you might like to read up on = the events surrounding the event dateline. There will be an open-ended = battle scenario along our usual lines. I stress that the battle we shall = fight will be an ENACTMENT of possible events in the train of the Viking = defeat at Edington as the Saxon army pursues the Vikings to Chippenham. Training sessions will take place on both days. All Regia Training = Officers are politely requested to do let Andrew Lodge (01778 - 347418) = know if they are attending or not. There will be archery taking place too. Please bring your bows. Living History Exhibit Set up day on Friday 4th May & Saturday 5th. The site will be open to = the public from 11.00am to 4.30pm on Saturday, 10.30 - 4.40 Sunday and = Monday. If you are normally LHE crew, please contact Ali Higginson = (01843 - 844644) to say you whether you will be there or no so she can = plan the site. Wic subsidy will be available as usual.=20 As usual, fires on the LHE must be in fire-boxes. As to infill for the = boxes, I have arranged the use of builder's sand. Please bring a garden = sieve with you to remove the lumpy bits at the end of the weekend. Equine Martin will be attending with Tally, Badger and Barbara's Rare Breeds = exhibit. Due to FMD, the horses saw little work last year, so will need = a bit of working up. Maritime We have been asked to supply and use the Saexering on the river, so it = will be available for sailing and rowing practice during the weekend. Shipburning There will be a dusk battle and shipburning on the night of Sunday 5th = May that will be preceded by a torchlit procession along the side of = the river.. I'm intending to rerun the Bloodaxe-style script we used so = successfully in York last year. No point in reinventing the wheel! Map & directions Town map in this issue. Leave the M4 at junction 17, taking the A350 = into town. At the huge railway viaduct, turn FIRST left (not for the = town centre) which will take you into the top of the main street. Turn = first left again into Station Hill. Drive to the top of the hill and = opposite the railway station, turn right into Saddlers Mead, also = signposted for the Olympiad sports centre. Please drive carefully = through this peaceful 1930's housing.=20 After half a mile, turn right on the left hand bend, and so enter the = park. Drive down the footpath. Modern camping is immediately in front of = you, the LHE to the right. Water, fires, toilets, camping, parking These facilities will be available 24 hours a day from both LHE and = modern camp sites from Friday noon. We can have TWO fires only at the 20thC site. Please comply with this = request and both fire sites must have the turf lifted before building = the fires. Wood for 20thC camp site fires can be obtained from the LHE = supply but there should be no supply problem.=20 Regia members can gain access to the Olympiad Sports Centre (200 = metres) for a hot shower by producing their membership card at = reception. Food and stuff Food and drink and other commodities can readily be obtained from the = town, a short walk away across the wooden bridge. Security We are not expecting any security problems, but please be prepared to = stay on site over night if you have property there to look after. I'd = lock valuables in the boot of your car if I were you, just as you would = anywhere else.=20 Fiscal matters The normal Hardship Money will be available for this event. You will = need to fill in the relevant form and present it with membership = documents or some proof of membership if you haven't had your book yet. = No fuel expenses. ------=_NextPart_000_0037_01C1E66D.A435AF50 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Here are the details for Chippenham at Mayday = BH.=20 Chronicle of course contains all these details, but I thought you might = like a=20 preview .

Regards,

Kim Siddorn.

The early bird may get the worm -
but the second mouse gets the = cheese!=20

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

A major Show for = Chippenham Town=20 Council

At Monkton Park in = Chippenham,=20 Wiltshire, Mayday Bank Holiday, 4^th – 6^th = May=20 2002

Dateline,=20 878AD

The=20 history

Chippenham is a town = steeped in=20 the history of the Viking invasions. King Bergerond of Mercia married = Alfred’s=20 sister here. Before Edington, Guthrum’s host occupied the town and = retreated to=20 the fortified town again after loosing the battle. After a = fortnight’s siege,=20 Guthrum surrendered to King Alfred. The importance of the events that = took place=20 in this place cannot be overestimated: it was the turning point in = Alfred’s=20 campaigns and his victory here allowed him to pursue the re-conquest of = the=20 Danelaw, returning a good deal of England to his kingship before his = death=20 nearly twenty years later and laying the foundations of the English = state for=20 generations to come.

The=20 site

Behind the centre of = town, the=20 river runs through a picturesque valley, bordering which Monkton Park = stretches=20 from flat ground by the river to a steep slope overlooking what will be = the=20 battlefield and LHE sites. On the river, a longship will be burned on = Sunday=20 evening.

Military

Major battles on all = three days=20 of the Spring Bank Holiday involving Saxons and Vikings. This is an = early event:=20 you might like to read up on the events surrounding the event dateline. = There=20 will be an open-ended battle scenario along our usual lines. I stress = that the=20 battle we shall fight will be an ENACTMENT of possible events in the = train of=20 the Viking defeat at Edington as the Saxon army pursues the Vikings to=20 Chippenham.

Training sessions = will take=20 place on both days. All Regia Training Officers are politely requested = to do let=20 Andrew Lodge (01778 - 347418) know if they are attending or=20 not.

There will be = archery taking=20 place too. Please bring your bows.

Living History=20 Exhibit

Set up day on Friday = 4th May=20 & Saturday 5^th. The site will be open to the public from = 11.00am=20 to 4.30pm on Saturday, 10.30 – 4.40 Sunday and Monday. If you are = normally LHE=20 crew, please contact Ali Higginson (01843 - 844644) to say you whether = you will=20 be there or no so she can plan the site. Wic subsidy will be available = as usual.=20

As usual, fires on = the LHE must=20 be in fire-boxes. As to infill for the boxes, I have arranged the use of = builder’s sand. Please bring a garden sieve with you to remove the = lumpy bits at=20 the end of the weekend.

Equine

Martin will be = attending with=20 Tally, Badger and Barbara’s Rare Breeds exhibit. Due to FMD, the = horses saw=20 little work last year, so will need a bit of working=20 up.

Maritime

We have been asked = to supply and=20 use the Saexering on the river, so it will be available for sailing and = rowing=20 practice during the weekend.

Shipburning

There will be a dusk = battle and=20 shipburning on the night of Sunday 5^th May that will be preceded by a = torchlit=20 procession along the side of the river.. I'm intending to rerun the=20 Bloodaxe-style script we used so successfully in York last year. No = point in=20 reinventing the wheel!

Map &=20 directions

Town map = in this=20 issue. Leave the M4 at junction 17, taking the A350 into town. At the = huge=20 railway viaduct, turn FIRST left (not for the town centre) which will = take you=20 into the top of the main street. Turn first left again into Station = Hill. Drive=20 to the top of the hill and opposite the railway station, turn right into = Saddlers Mead, also signposted for the Olympiad sports centre. Please = drive=20 carefully through this peaceful 1930’s housing.=20

After half a mile, = turn right on=20 the left hand bend, and so enter the park. Drive down the footpath. = Modern=20 camping is immediately in front of you, the LHE to the=20 right.

Water, fires, = toilets, camping,=20 parking

These facilities = will be=20 available 24 hours a day from both LHE and modern camp sites from Friday = noon.

We can have TWO = fires only at=20 the 20thC site. Please comply with this request and both fire sites must = have=20 the turf lifted before building the fires. Wood for 20thC camp site = fires can be=20 obtained from the LHE supply but there should be no supply problem.=20

Regia members can = gain access to=20 the Olympiad Sports Centre (200 metres) for a hot shower by producing = their=20 membership card at reception.

Food and=20 stuff

Food and drink and = other=20 commodities can readily be obtained from the town, a short walk away = across the=20 wooden bridge.

Security

We are not expecting = any=20 security problems, but please be prepared to stay on site over night if = you have=20 property there to look after. I’d lock valuables in the boot of = your car if I=20 were you, just as you would anywhere else.

Fiscal=20 matters

The normal Hardship Money will be = available for=20 this event. You will need to fill in the relevant form and present it = with=20 membership documents or some proof of membership if you haven’t = had your book=20 yet. No fuel expenses.

------=_NextPart_000_0037_01C1E66D.A435AF50-- From kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Thu, 18 Apr 2002 00:16:25 +0100 Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 00:16:25 +0100 From: J. K. Siddorn kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] Regia website This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0046_01C1E66E.46D48B50 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable The website is back up again. We don't know what was wrong, but our SP = is looking into it. Regards, Kim Siddorn. The early bird may get the worm - but the second mouse gets the cheese!=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0046_01C1E66E.46D48B50 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

The website is back up again. We don't know = what was=20 wrong, but our SP is looking into it.

Regards,

Kim Siddorn.

The early bird may get the worm -
but the second mouse gets the = cheese!=20

------=_NextPart_000_0046_01C1E66E.46D48B50-- From Marfield66@aol.com Wed, 17 Apr 2002 19:37:03 -0400 Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 19:37:03 -0400 From: Marfield66@aol.com Marfield66@aol.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths Douglas - Do you have the ISBN number for Esther Cameron's book "Sheaths and Scabbards in England AD 300 - 1100 ? I'm keen on tracking this one down even if I have to pick it up as an out of print book. Thanks Martin From snorri@vikingasaga.freeserve.co.uk Thu, 18 Apr 2002 06:48:41 +0100 Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 06:48:41 +0100 From: Ian Uzzell snorri@vikingasaga.freeserve.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths Sheaths and Scabbards in England AD400 - 1100 Esther A Cameron ISBN 1 84171 065 2 Published by Archaeopress 2000. www.archaeopress.com It is a British Archaeological Report. BAR British Series 301 Available from: Hdrian Books Ltd 122 Banbury Road Oxford OX2 7BP England This is the distributor of the BAR's It is available as we bought this two weeks ago. Hope this helps Ian Uzzell ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 12:37 AM Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths > Douglas - Do you have the ISBN number for Esther Cameron's book "Sheaths and Scabbards in England AD 300 - 1100 ? > I'm keen on tracking this one down even if I have to pick it up as an out of print book. > Thanks > Martin > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > From kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Thu, 18 Apr 2002 16:21:50 +0100 Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 16:21:50 +0100 From: J. K. Siddorn kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] Chronicle - have you moved? This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00F3_01C1E6F5.250C8CC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable If you have moved in the last three months and not told Gerry Fox, then = write your name here and send it straight back to me. If you did not receive your Chronicle last time (number 64) then write = your name here and send it straight back to me. If you have not paid your subs, you will not get a Chronicle this time. = We cannot guarantee to provide a copy for late renewers once the = production run of 600 has been exhausted. Regards, Kim Siddorn. The early bird may get the worm - but the second mouse gets the cheese!=20 ------=_NextPart_000_00F3_01C1E6F5.250C8CC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

If you have moved in the last three months = and not told=20 Gerry Fox, then write your name here and send it straight back to=20 me.

If you did not receive your Chronicle last = time (number=20 64) then write your name here and send it straight back to = me.

If you have not paid your subs, you will not = get a=20 Chronicle this time. We cannot guarantee to provide a copy for late = renewers=20 once the production run of 600 has been exhausted.

Regards,

Kim Siddorn.

The early bird may get the worm -
but the = second=20 mouse gets the cheese!

------=_NextPart_000_00F3_01C1E6F5.250C8CC0-- From dsunlin@hotmail.com Thu, 18 Apr 2002 09:49:18 -0700 Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 09:49:18 -0700 From: Douglas Sunlin dsunlin@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths Martin: I give the book a mixed review. In writing about archaeology or any other technical subject, understanding of a very crucial concept often depends on careful and precise terminology and descriptive rhetoric. In the case of this book, a conclusive desription seems to be lacking of exactly how the seaxes were hung from a belt in their sheaths. Hence my original question. Perhaps I need to delve more into the earlier chapters. On the plus side, there is plenty "eye-candy" of the leatherwork on the various sheaths. I am building a web-page that excerpts the seax sheaths from our period. Douglas <><><> <><><> <><><> >From: Marfield66@aol.com >Reply-To: list-regia-na@lig.net >To: list-regia-na@lig.net >Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths >Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 19:37:03 -0400 > >Douglas - Do you have the ISBN number for Esther Cameron's book "Sheaths >and Scabbards in England AD 300 - 1100 ? >I'm keen on tracking this one down even if I have to pick it up as an out >of print book. >Thanks >Martin >_______________________________________________ >list-regia-na mailing list >list-regia-na@lig.net >http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na <><><> <><><> <><><> Beoð ge gesunde, Oswald of Baldurstrand http://groups.yahoo.com/group/California_Viking_Age http://www.geocities.com/baldurstrand/ _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From gregsta@carolina.rr.com Thu, 18 Apr 2002 13:04:28 -0400 Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 13:04:28 -0400 From: Gregory G. Stapleton gregsta@carolina.rr.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths Is it possible that sheathes were not "suspended" from the belts, but just "wedged" between the belt and the body? Gregory G. Stapleton -----Original Message----- From: list-regia-na-admin@lig.net [mailto:list-regia-na-admin@lig.net] On Behalf Of Douglas Sunlin Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 12:49 PM To: list-regia-na@lig.net Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths Martin: I give the book a mixed review. In writing about archaeology or any other technical subject, understanding of a very crucial concept often depends on careful and precise terminology and descriptive rhetoric. In the case of this book, a conclusive desription seems to be lacking of exactly how the seaxes were hung from a belt in their sheaths. Hence my original question. Perhaps I need to delve more into the earlier chapters. On the plus side, there is plenty "eye-candy" of the leatherwork on the various sheaths. I am building a web-page that excerpts the seax sheaths from our period. Douglas From gythe@snrd.freeserve.co.uk Thu, 18 Apr 2002 20:18:38 +0100 Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 20:18:38 +0100 From: Hazel Uzzell gythe@snrd.freeserve.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths > Is it possible that sheathes were not "suspended" from the belts, but > just "wedged" between the belt and the body? > > Gregory G. Stapleton > > You could only wedge it in the back of the belt, or you wouldn't be able to bend over forwards...I think! Hazel U > > Martin: > > I give the book a mixed review. > > In writing about archaeology or any other technical subject, > understanding > of a very crucial concept often depends on careful and precise > terminology > and descriptive rhetoric. In the case of this book, a conclusive > desription > seems to be lacking of exactly how the seaxes were hung from a belt in > their > sheaths. Hence my original question. Perhaps I need to delve more into > the > earlier chapters. > > On the plus side, there is plenty "eye-candy" of the leatherwork on the > various sheaths. I am building a web-page that excerpts the seax sheaths > > from our period. > > Douglas > > > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > From dsunlin@hotmail.com Thu, 18 Apr 2002 12:22:27 -0700 Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 12:22:27 -0700 From: Douglas Sunlin dsunlin@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths I think he's visualizing wearing it like a Japanese wakizashi or katana sword. Geez, the Brits have enough in common with the Japanese, now this? ;) <><><> <><><> <><><> >From: "Hazel Uzzell" >Reply-To: list-regia-na@lig.net >To: >Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths >Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 20:18:38 +0100 > > > > > > > > > > > Is it possible that sheathes were not "suspended" from the belts, but > > just "wedged" between the belt and the body? > > > > Gregory G. Stapleton > > > > You could only wedge it in the back of the belt, or you wouldn't be able >to bend over forwards...I think! >Hazel U > > > > Martin: > > > > I give the book a mixed review. > > > > In writing about archaeology or any other technical subject, > > understanding > > of a very crucial concept often depends on careful and precise > > terminology > > and descriptive rhetoric. In the case of this book, a conclusive > > desription > > seems to be lacking of exactly how the seaxes were hung from a belt in > > their > > sheaths. Hence my original question. Perhaps I need to delve more into > > the > > earlier chapters. > > > > On the plus side, there is plenty "eye-candy" of the leatherwork on the > > various sheaths. I am building a web-page that excerpts the seax sheaths > > > > from our period. > > > > Douglas > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > list-regia-na mailing list > > list-regia-na@lig.net > > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > > >_______________________________________________ >list-regia-na mailing list >list-regia-na@lig.net >http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na <><><> <><><> <><><> Beoð ge gesunde, Oswald of Baldurstrand http://groups.yahoo.com/group/California_Viking_Age http://www.geocities.com/baldurstrand/ _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From MMagnusM@bellsouth.net Thu, 18 Apr 2002 15:37:28 -0400 Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 15:37:28 -0400 From: rmhowe MMagnusM@bellsouth.net Subject: [Regia-NA] Beds A bit on the subject of beds: Everyone likes to try to replicate the smaller beds from the Oseberg ship. Problem is that that is a rare and now delicate book if you can find one. I have been trying for about a year to locate: Speake, G.: A Saxon Bed Burial on Swallowcliffe Down [Wiltshire] English Heritage Archaeological Report, English Heritage, London 10, 1989, vii, 135 pp, pls, figs, table, refs, index, 18#, paper, 1850742111, "A BA barrow had been excavated by L and F de M Vatcher in 1966 had been reused in 7th C AD for a richly furnished Anglo-Saxon inhumation of a female aged 18 to 25 years. She lay on an ash wood bed with elaborate iron fittings, and was surrounded by high quality grave-goods including an iron bound bucket, a maplewood casket containing a sprinkler, a spoon, and personal items, an ornate satchel with gold foil mounts of possible Christian significance, and a bronze- mounted bucket. The burial’s significance is considered in its local and national context. Documentary and topographical evidence suggest the possible identification of the barrow with Posses Hlaewe, recorded in a charter of AD 940. OS report 10. Date of Publication: 01/01/89 ISBN: 01-85074-211-1 Actual cost at time of printing was £10, but with the two catalogs and all the packing my order from Britain to North Carolina, USA came to £22.20. Absolutely splendid! PRODUCT CODE: XA13010 Price: Paperback £10 / Customer Services on 0870 333 1181 or customers@english-heritage.org.uk Go Get 'em people! Copies of the English Heritage publications are available from Room 209, 23 Savile Row, London W1X 1AB http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/ good luck getting the buttons on the pages to work right. Maybe Bill Gates has been messing around there. However, I finally got the book. Now, why do I mention this? Well, it appears that there are lots more beds in this particular tome than just the one. And a leather satchel of 800 AD as well. The remains of a skillet; the remains of a casket; a water sprinkler - with comparison to others; metal spoons with additional comparisons; remains of a comb, an iron spindle, iron knives, remains of silver brooches, belt mounts, two fancy glass beads, another comb; a bucket with triangular mountings below the top band and bail; remains of the satchel, satchel reconstructed; fancy satchel mounts with archaeological comparisons to other jewellery. Looks a bit like St. Cuthbert's cross to me; Moylough, Ireland belt reliquary. Ardagh chalice fitting; various mould fragments from the Mote of Mark; Palm cups in situ and together, with comparisons. Beds: Iron components of the Swallowcliffe Down Bed and it's reconstruction. Reconstruction of another A-Saxon Bed from Shudy Camps, grave 29. Fittings without reconstructions from other probably bed burials. Reconstruction of a wooden bed from the burial of a princeling at Cologne Cathedral from several views. Lots of turning on this one. The Big Oseberg Bed, Top, End, Side, Oblique Views with Scale. Two of the smaller Oseberg Beds with multiple views of each with Scale. Textiles by Crowfoot. Big Bibliography. End of this book part. I'm in a hurry to go some where. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Also for the Anglo-Saxon Types you might look at the carving of an animal headed bed in: Nelson, Philip, M.D., F.S.A.: An Ancient Box-Wood Casket; Offprint from Archaeologia Vol. LXXXVI, 1937, pp. 91-100, and plates XX and XXI showing every side of the box and its top, at that time separated between different owners, and three pictures of related stylistic sculptures. ** Depicts an early medieval bed with Animal Head(s) for the head posts. Suggests the box may be Anglo-Saxon English of about 1020. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Drawings (sorta scaled) for various furniture including the beds taken from various sculptures, manuscripts, surviving pieces, may be found in: Wright, A.C. MEDIEVAL FURNITURE 1976. Card covers. VG Oblong 4to Approx 50 pages. Over 100 line drawings with informative commentary illustrating many aspects of medieval wood-working practice and furniture styles, published by Southend Museums Service. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Boccacio, Giovanni: Boccaccio's Decameron, 15th-Century Manuscript, Pognon, Edmond (Texts by)Chief Curator, Bibliotheque Nationale, Paris, translated by J. Peter Tallon, Productions Liber SA, and Editions Minerva SA, Fribourg - Geneve, 1978. The hundred miniatures in this book were painted between 1430 and 1440 to illustrate the French translation of this book completed in 1414. 124 pages, almost each of which has one or more than one full color illumination. There are chests, chairs, beds, benches, bathing tubs, buckets on a yoke, Thrones, feast scenes, caskets for burial, tombs, curious boats with garderobe seats down both sides of each, warships, many tables on trestles, three legged turned stools, lots of hats, pouches, costumes, shoes, a wooden litter to be carried by two (different than any I've seen elsewhere), garden trellises, feastgear, swords and sheathes and knives, a halberd, a very long torch, a very long cart carrying a denounced knight, hunting dogs and spears, candlesticks, horse barding, a bakery, pewterware, a turning spit and drip pan before the fireplace in use, cloaks, bucklers and swords, vats, long benches for the eating tables, a round lantern, etc. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Hayward, Charles H.: Period Furniture Design; Sterling Publishing Co., New York, 112 pages, ISBN 0806976640 - oak stool late 15th; oak chest, oak drawtable early 16th, oak chest 1600, oak bed end first 1/2 16th; all are measured drawings. The back has a section on Furniture and also Mouldings through the Ages which shows a little medieval Furniture in it. Small line drawings of these. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Windisch-Graetz, Franz: Möbel Europas : von der Romanik bis zur Spätgotik : mit einem Rückblick auf Antike und Spätantike / Franz Windisch-Graetz Publish info München : Klinkhardt & Biermann, c1982 ISBN 3781402126 Medieval Furniture xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Kraus, Henry: The Living Theatre of Medieval Art: University of Penn. Press, Philadelphia, 1967, xvii + 248p, 135 Illustrations, ISBN 0812210565. Great for sculptural scenes. Sculpture in the round, quatrefoils of daily life and seasons and stained glass windows from great cathedrals. Money coiner’s capital 37, Dragon sculptures with females 43 - Reims and Chartres; Creation of Adam 54 - Chartres (God molding Adam); Herod and Salome 57 - Toulouse; Mother combing Child roundel 57 - Vezelay; **** Bed - 12th C. heavy framed turned rope suspension 68 - Mossaic; 12th C. *** Bed with Virgin on window at Chartres 49 - arcaded light stretchers and turned legs with large feet. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Ta, Master Magnus Malleus, OL © 2002 R.M. Howe *No reposting my writings to newsgroups, especially rec.org.sca, or the SCA-Universitas elist. I view this as violating copyright restrictions. As long as it's to reenactor or SCA -closed- subscriber based email lists or individuals I don't mind. It's meant to help people without aggravating me.* Inclusion, in the http://www.Florilegium.org/ as always is permitted. From dsunlin@hotmail.com Thu, 18 Apr 2002 12:51:24 -0700 Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 12:51:24 -0700 From: Douglas Sunlin dsunlin@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths Here's the excerpt: http://www.geocities.com/baldurstrand/seax/seax_sheaths.html More graphics will follow. If the pics of the individual sheaths don't come up, you may have to add a ? at the end of the pertinent URL. <><><> <><><> <><><> Beoð ge gesunde, Oswald of Baldurstrand http://groups.yahoo.com/group/California_Viking_Age http://www.geocities.com/baldurstrand/ _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From gregsta@carolina.rr.com Thu, 18 Apr 2002 15:53:09 -0400 Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 15:53:09 -0400 From: Gregory G. Stapleton gregsta@carolina.rr.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths No, I wedge one at my left side all the time. No problems, so far. Gregory G. Stapleton -----Original Message----- From: list-regia-na-admin@lig.net [mailto:list-regia-na-admin@lig.net] On Behalf Of Hazel Uzzell > Is it possible that sheathes were not "suspended" from the belts, but > just "wedged" between the belt and the body? > > Gregory G. Stapleton > > You could only wedge it in the back of the belt, or you wouldn't be able to bend over forwards...I think! Hazel U > From Jurdank3123@cs.com Thu, 18 Apr 2002 16:27:53 EDT Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 16:27:53 EDT From: Jurdank3123@cs.com Jurdank3123@cs.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths Hi Douglas, It works just fine. Nice job. Jeff/Thorfinn << Here's the excerpt: http://www.geocities.com/baldurstrand/seax/seax_sheaths.html =20 More graphics will follow. If the pics of the individual sheaths don't come= =20 up, you may have to add a ? at the end of the pertinent URL. =20 <><><> <><><> <><><> Beo=F0 ge gesunde, Oswald of Baldurstrand http://groups.yahoo.com/group/California_Viking_Age http://www.geocities.com/baldurstrand/ =20 __ >> From kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Thu, 18 Apr 2002 21:34:59 +0100 Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 21:34:59 +0100 From: J. K. Siddorn kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths This is where re-enactment is so valuable. Firstly, the decorated scabbard would not be seen properly, Secondly, it would inevitably fall out and be lost - and they were valuable. Just the iron alone in its raw state was as valuable to them as the equivalent weight of silver would be to us today. This being the case, would you risk doing that? Regards, Kim Siddorn. The early bird may get the worm - but the second mouse gets the cheese! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gregory G. Stapleton" To: Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 6:04 PM Subject: RE: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths > Is it possible that sheathes were not "suspended" from the belts, but > just "wedged" between the belt and the body? > > Gregory G. Stapleton > > -----Original Message----- > From: list-regia-na-admin@lig.net [mailto:list-regia-na-admin@lig.net] > On Behalf Of Douglas Sunlin > Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 12:49 PM > To: list-regia-na@lig.net > Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths > > Martin: > > I give the book a mixed review. > > In writing about archaeology or any other technical subject, > understanding > of a very crucial concept often depends on careful and precise > terminology > and descriptive rhetoric. In the case of this book, a conclusive > desription > seems to be lacking of exactly how the seaxes were hung from a belt in > their > sheaths. Hence my original question. Perhaps I need to delve more into > the > earlier chapters. > > On the plus side, there is plenty "eye-candy" of the leatherwork on the > various sheaths. I am building a web-page that excerpts the seax sheaths > > from our period. > > Douglas > > > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na From halvgrimr@yahoo.com Thu, 18 Apr 2002 13:32:28 -0700 (PDT) Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 13:32:28 -0700 (PDT) From: Robb Schuster halvgrimr@yahoo.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Beds --- rmhowe wrote: > A bit on the subject of beds: > > Everyone likes to try to replicate the smaller beds > from the > Oseberg ship. Problem is that that is a rare and now > delicate > book if you can find one. > > I have been trying for about a year to locate: > Speake, G.: A Saxon Bed Burial on Swallowcliffe Down ------------------------------------- i have this book, its great! keep in mind that there are several Saxon beds in this book, as well as a few other much later period beds. there are beds with woven reeds as a "box spring" and also another bed with "box springs" that are made of riveted steel strips and is suspended via rope and iron loops from the sides of the bed (pics available upon request) also keep in mind that it is speculated that this bed may not have been a normal "sleeping bed". The dimensions are very small and wouldn't have comfortably accommodated the average person (IMO), it was 6ft long and 2ft 9 inches wide, granted the pathology done on the skull fragment determined the "owner" of the grave was a female, aged 18-25, and they estimated by pathology of a femur bone measurements that she was 5 ft 3 inches tall when discussing it with our group here we came to the conclusion that it may have served wither of the two purposes listed below: 1) that is was a bed build specifically for a burial (as one reconstruction shows that some of the irons fittings found on the side of the bed may have been handles similar to the handles used to lift a modern day casket) 2) that is was the bed of an invalid (someone not able to get out of bed for what ever reason) as the angle of some of the iron work fittings at the head of the bed seem to indicate that this bed had a tilted back board (shaped like one of the big TV pillows) i found the book very interesting, it also shows a picture of a later period (15c i think) campaigning bed that looks amazing like the old outdoors metal folding patio furniture (made of thin metal bands) that my grandparents used to own Halvgrimr __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From gythe@snrd.freeserve.co.uk Thu, 18 Apr 2002 22:02:04 +0100 Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 22:02:04 +0100 From: Hazel Uzzell gythe@snrd.freeserve.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] Beds I have the Swallowcliffe Down Book. Very good. I had a replica Saxon bed made some years ago. Ian uses it now. Regards, Hazel Uzzell > A bit on the subject of beds: > > Everyone likes to try to replicate the smaller beds from the > Oseberg ship. Problem is that that is a rare and now delicate > book if you can find one. > > I have been trying for about a year to locate: > Speake, G.: A Saxon Bed Burial on Swallowcliffe Down > [Wiltshire] English Heritage Archaeological Report, English > Heritage, London 10, 1989, vii, 135 pp, pls, figs, table, refs, > index, 18#, paper, 1850742111, "A BA barrow had been excavated > by L and F de M Vatcher in 1966 had been reused in 7th C AD for > a richly furnished Anglo-Saxon inhumation of a female aged 18 > to 25 years. She lay on an ash wood bed with elaborate iron > fittings, and was surrounded by high quality grave-goods > including an iron bound bucket, a maplewood casket containing > a sprinkler, a spoon, and personal items, an ornate satchel with > gold foil mounts of possible Christian significance, and a bronze- > mounted bucket. The burial's significance is considered in its > local and national context. Documentary and topographical evidence > suggest the possible identification of the barrow with Posses Hlaewe, > recorded in a charter of AD 940. OS report 10. > Date of Publication: 01/01/89 ISBN: 01-85074-211-1 > Actual cost at time of printing was £10, but with the two catalogs > and all the packing my order from Britain to North Carolina, USA > came to £22.20. Absolutely splendid! > > PRODUCT CODE: XA13010 Price: Paperback £10 / > Customer Services on 0870 333 1181 or > customers@english-heritage.org.uk > Go Get 'em people! > > Copies of the English Heritage publications are available from > Room 209, 23 Savile Row, London W1X 1AB > http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/ > good luck getting the buttons on the pages to work right. > Maybe Bill Gates has been messing around there. However, > I finally got the book. > > Now, why do I mention this? Well, it appears that there are lots > more beds in this particular tome than just the one. And a leather > satchel of 800 AD as well. > > The remains of a skillet; the remains of a casket; a water sprinkler - > with comparison to others; metal spoons with additional comparisons; > remains of a comb, an iron spindle, iron knives, remains of silver > brooches, belt mounts, two fancy glass beads, another comb; a bucket > with triangular mountings below the top band and bail; remains of > the satchel, satchel reconstructed; fancy satchel mounts with > archaeological comparisons to other jewellery. Looks a bit like > St. Cuthbert's cross to me; Moylough, Ireland belt reliquary. > Ardagh chalice fitting; various mould fragments from the Mote of > Mark; Palm cups in situ and together, with comparisons. > > Beds: > Iron components of the Swallowcliffe Down Bed and it's > reconstruction. > > Reconstruction of another A-Saxon Bed from Shudy Camps, grave 29. > > Fittings without reconstructions from other probably bed burials. > > Reconstruction of a wooden bed from the burial of a princeling > at Cologne Cathedral from several views. Lots of turning on > this one. > > The Big Oseberg Bed, Top, End, Side, Oblique Views with Scale. > > Two of the smaller Oseberg Beds with multiple views of each with > Scale. > > Textiles by Crowfoot. > Big Bibliography. End of this book part. I'm in a hurry to > go some where. > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > Also for the Anglo-Saxon Types you might look at the carving of > an animal headed bed in: > Nelson, Philip, M.D., F.S.A.: An Ancient Box-Wood Casket; > Offprint from Archaeologia Vol. LXXXVI, 1937, pp. 91-100, and > plates XX and XXI showing every side of the box and its top, > at that time separated between different owners, and three > pictures of related stylistic sculptures. ** Depicts an early > medieval bed with Animal Head(s) for the head posts. Suggests > the box may be Anglo-Saxon English of about 1020. > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > Drawings (sorta scaled) for various furniture including the > beds taken from various sculptures, manuscripts, surviving > pieces, may be found in: > Wright, A.C. MEDIEVAL FURNITURE > 1976. Card covers. VG Oblong 4to Approx 50 pages. > Over 100 line drawings with informative commentary illustrating > many aspects of medieval wood-working practice and furniture > styles, published by Southend Museums Service. > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > Boccacio, Giovanni: Boccaccio's Decameron, 15th-Century > Manuscript, Pognon, Edmond (Texts by)Chief Curator, Bibliotheque > Nationale, Paris, translated by J. Peter Tallon, > Productions Liber SA, and Editions Minerva SA, Fribourg - Geneve, > 1978. The hundred miniatures in this book were painted between > 1430 and 1440 to illustrate the French translation of this book > completed in 1414. 124 pages, almost each of which has one or > more than one full color illumination. There are chests, chairs, > beds, benches, bathing tubs, buckets on a yoke, Thrones, feast > scenes, caskets for burial, tombs, curious boats with garderobe > seats down both sides of each, warships, many tables on trestles, > three legged turned stools, lots of hats, pouches, costumes, > shoes, a wooden litter to be carried by two (different than any > I've seen elsewhere), garden trellises, feastgear, swords and > sheathes and knives, a halberd, a very long torch, a very long > cart carrying a denounced knight, hunting dogs and spears, > candlesticks, horse barding, a bakery, pewterware, a turning > spit and drip pan before the fireplace in use, cloaks, bucklers > and swords, vats, long benches for the eating tables, a round > lantern, etc. > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > Hayward, Charles H.: Period Furniture Design; Sterling > Publishing Co., New York, 112 pages, ISBN 0806976640 - oak stool > late 15th; oak chest, oak drawtable early 16th, oak chest 1600, > oak bed end first 1/2 16th; all are measured drawings. The back > has a section on Furniture and also Mouldings through the Ages > which shows a little medieval Furniture in it. Small line > drawings of these. > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > Windisch-Graetz, Franz: > Möbel Europas : von der Romanik bis zur Spätgotik : mit einem > Rückblick auf Antike und Spätantike / Franz Windisch-Graetz > Publish info München : Klinkhardt & Biermann, c1982 ISBN 3781402126 > Medieval Furniture > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > Kraus, Henry: The Living Theatre of Medieval Art: University > of Penn. Press, Philadelphia, 1967, xvii + 248p, 135 > Illustrations, ISBN 0812210565. Great for sculptural scenes. > Sculpture in the round, quatrefoils of daily life > and seasons and stained glass windows from great cathedrals. > Money coiner's capital 37, Dragon sculptures with females > 43 - Reims and Chartres; Creation of Adam 54 - Chartres (God > molding Adam); Herod and Salome 57 - Toulouse; Mother combing > Child roundel 57 - Vezelay; **** Bed - 12th C. heavy framed > turned rope suspension 68 - Mossaic; 12th C. *** Bed with > Virgin on window at Chartres 49 - arcaded light stretchers > and turned legs with large feet. > xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > Ta, > Master Magnus Malleus, OL © 2002 R.M. Howe > *No reposting my writings to newsgroups, especially rec.org.sca, or > the SCA-Universitas elist. I view this as violating copyright > restrictions. As long as it's to reenactor or SCA -closed- subscriber > based email lists or individuals I don't mind. It's meant to > help people without aggravating me.* Inclusion, in the > http://www.Florilegium.org/ as always is permitted. > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > From kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Thu, 18 Apr 2002 22:04:46 +0100 Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 22:04:46 +0100 From: J. K. Siddorn kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths Wot, we live on an island with high rainfall and we like cars? That's about it I think ;o(( Regards, Kim Siddorn. The early bird may get the worm - but the second mouse gets the cheese! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Douglas Sunlin" To: Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 8:22 PM Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths > I think he's visualizing wearing it like a Japanese wakizashi or katana > sword. Geez, the Brits have enough in common with the Japanese, now this? ;) > <><><> <><><> <><><> > > > >From: "Hazel Uzzell" > >Reply-To: list-regia-na@lig.net > >To: > >Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths > >Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 20:18:38 +0100 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Is it possible that sheathes were not "suspended" from the belts, but > > > just "wedged" between the belt and the body? > > > > > > Gregory G. Stapleton > > > > > > You could only wedge it in the back of the belt, or you wouldn't be able > >to bend over forwards...I think! > >Hazel U > > > > > > Martin: > > > > > > I give the book a mixed review. > > > > > > In writing about archaeology or any other technical subject, > > > understanding > > > of a very crucial concept often depends on careful and precise > > > terminology > > > and descriptive rhetoric. In the case of this book, a conclusive > > > desription > > > seems to be lacking of exactly how the seaxes were hung from a belt in > > > their > > > sheaths. Hence my original question. Perhaps I need to delve more into > > > the > > > earlier chapters. > > > > > > On the plus side, there is plenty "eye-candy" of the leatherwork on the > > > various sheaths. I am building a web-page that excerpts the seax sheaths > > > > > > from our period. > > > > > > Douglas > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > list-regia-na mailing list > > > list-regia-na@lig.net > > > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > >list-regia-na mailing list > >list-regia-na@lig.net > >http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > > <><><> <><><> <><><> > Beoð ge gesunde, > Oswald of Baldurstrand > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/California_Viking_Age > http://www.geocities.com/baldurstrand/ > > _________________________________________________________________ > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > From Jurdank3123@cs.com Thu, 18 Apr 2002 17:06:44 EDT Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 17:06:44 EDT From: Jurdank3123@cs.com Jurdank3123@cs.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths C'mon, ya like noodles, raw fish and Godzilla too, don't ya? Regards, Jeff/Thorfinn kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk writes: << Wot, we live on an island with high rainfall and we like cars? That's about it I think ;o(( Regards, Kim Siddorn. The early bird may get the worm - but the second mouse gets the cheese! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Douglas Sunlin" To: Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 8:22 PM Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths > I think he's visualizing wearing it like a Japanese wakizashi or katana > sword. Geez, the Brits have enough in common with the Japanese, now this? ;) >> From kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Thu, 18 Apr 2002 22:21:56 +0100 Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 22:21:56 +0100 From: J. K. Siddorn kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths No, no and no, I'm afraid. And us Saxons had given up making pattern welded blades as unnecessary a eight hundred years before the Japs discovered it. Hah! Regards, Kim Siddorn. The early bird may get the worm - but the second mouse gets the cheese! ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 10:06 PM Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths > C'mon, ya like noodles, raw fish and Godzilla too, don't ya? > > Regards, > > Jeff/Thorfinn > > kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk writes: > > << Wot, we live on an island with high rainfall and we like cars? That's about > it I think ;o(( > > Regards, > > > Kim Siddorn. > > The early bird may get the worm - > but the second mouse gets the cheese! > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Douglas Sunlin" > To: > Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 8:22 PM > Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths > > > > I think he's visualizing wearing it like a Japanese wakizashi or katana > > sword. Geez, the Brits have enough in common with the Japanese, now this? > ;) >> > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > From dsunlin@hotmail.com Thu, 18 Apr 2002 14:20:54 -0700 Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 14:20:54 -0700 From: Douglas Sunlin dsunlin@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths ...and you both drive on the wrong, er, left side of the road. ...and you do love your tea! See? >From: "J. K. Siddorn" >Reply-To: list-regia-na@lig.net >To: >Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths >Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 22:04:46 +0100 > >Wot, we live on an island with high rainfall and we like cars? That's about >it I think ;o(( > >Regards, > > >Kim Siddorn. > >The early bird may get the worm - >but the second mouse gets the cheese! > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Douglas Sunlin" >To: >Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 8:22 PM >Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths > > > > I think he's visualizing wearing it like a Japanese wakizashi or katana > > sword. Geez, the Brits have enough in common with the Japanese, now >this? >;) > > <><><> <><><> <><><> > > > > > > >From: "Hazel Uzzell" > > >Reply-To: list-regia-na@lig.net > > >To: > > >Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths > > >Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 20:18:38 +0100 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Is it possible that sheathes were not "suspended" from the belts, >but > > > > just "wedged" between the belt and the body? > > > > > > > > Gregory G. Stapleton > > > > > > > > You could only wedge it in the back of the belt, or you wouldn't be >able > > >to bend over forwards...I think! > > >Hazel U > > > > > > > > Martin: > > > > > > > > I give the book a mixed review. > > > > > > > > In writing about archaeology or any other technical subject, > > > > understanding > > > > of a very crucial concept often depends on careful and precise > > > > terminology > > > > and descriptive rhetoric. In the case of this book, a conclusive > > > > desription > > > > seems to be lacking of exactly how the seaxes were hung from a belt >in > > > > their > > > > sheaths. Hence my original question. Perhaps I need to delve more >into > > > > the > > > > earlier chapters. > > > > > > > > On the plus side, there is plenty "eye-candy" of the leatherwork on >the > > > > various sheaths. I am building a web-page that excerpts the seax >sheaths > > > > > > > > from our period. > > > > > > > > Douglas > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > list-regia-na mailing list > > > > list-regia-na@lig.net > > > > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > > > > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > >list-regia-na mailing list > > >list-regia-na@lig.net > > >http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > > > > > <><><> <><><> <><><> > > Beoð ge gesunde, > > Oswald of Baldurstrand > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/California_Viking_Age > > http://www.geocities.com/baldurstrand/ > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: > > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > > > _______________________________________________ > > list-regia-na mailing list > > list-regia-na@lig.net > > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > > >_______________________________________________ >list-regia-na mailing list >list-regia-na@lig.net >http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na <><><> <><><> <><><> Beoð ge gesunde, Oswald of Baldurstrand http://groups.yahoo.com/group/California_Viking_Age http://www.geocities.com/baldurstrand/ _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From Jurdank3123@cs.com Thu, 18 Apr 2002 17:35:13 EDT Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 17:35:13 EDT From: Jurdank3123@cs.com Jurdank3123@cs.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths That's right....hmmmmm Jeff/Thorfinn kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk writes: << No, no and no, I'm afraid. And us Saxons had given up making pattern welded blades as unnecessary a eight hundred years before the Japs discovered it. Hah! Regards, Kim Siddorn. The early bird may get the worm - but the second mouse gets the cheese! ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 10:06 PM Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths > C'mon, ya like noodles, raw fish and Godzilla too, don't ya? > > Regards, > > Jeff/Thorfinn > > kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk writes: > > << Wot, we live on an island with high rainfall and we like cars? That's about > it I think ;o(( > > Regards, > > > Kim Siddorn. > > The early bird may get the worm - > but the second mouse gets the cheese! > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Douglas Sunlin" > To: > Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 8:22 PM > Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths > > > > I think he's visualizing wearing it like a Japanese wakizashi or katana > > sword. Geez, the Brits have enough in common with the Japanese, now this? > ;) >> > _______ >> From kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Thu, 18 Apr 2002 23:07:22 +0100 Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 23:07:22 +0100 From: J. K. Siddorn kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths They only copied our vehicles when we got our foot in their motor industry first ;o)) They only like tea because they were settled from the Chinese mainland and took the custom with them. They are not like us at all: their light switches turn off downwards and their trains run on time! Regards, Kim Siddorn. The early bird may get the worm - but the second mouse gets the cheese! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Douglas Sunlin" To: Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 10:20 PM Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths > ...and you both drive on the wrong, er, left side of the road. > > ...and you do love your tea! > > See? > > > > >From: "J. K. Siddorn" > >Reply-To: list-regia-na@lig.net > >To: > >Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths > >Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 22:04:46 +0100 > > > >Wot, we live on an island with high rainfall and we like cars? That's about > >it I think ;o(( > > > >Regards, > > > > > >Kim Siddorn. > > > >The early bird may get the worm - > >but the second mouse gets the cheese! > > > > > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "Douglas Sunlin" > >To: > >Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 8:22 PM > >Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths > > > > > > > I think he's visualizing wearing it like a Japanese wakizashi or katana > > > sword. Geez, the Brits have enough in common with the Japanese, now > >this? > >;) > > > <><><> <><><> <><><> > > > > > > > > > >From: "Hazel Uzzell" > > > >Reply-To: list-regia-na@lig.net > > > >To: > > > >Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths > > > >Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 20:18:38 +0100 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Is it possible that sheathes were not "suspended" from the belts, > >but > > > > > just "wedged" between the belt and the body? > > > > > > > > > > Gregory G. Stapleton > > > > > > > > > > You could only wedge it in the back of the belt, or you wouldn't be > >able > > > >to bend over forwards...I think! > > > >Hazel U > > > > > > > > > > Martin: > > > > > > > > > > I give the book a mixed review. > > > > > > > > > > In writing about archaeology or any other technical subject, > > > > > understanding > > > > > of a very crucial concept often depends on careful and precise > > > > > terminology > > > > > and descriptive rhetoric. In the case of this book, a conclusive > > > > > desription > > > > > seems to be lacking of exactly how the seaxes were hung from a belt > >in > > > > > their > > > > > sheaths. Hence my original question. Perhaps I need to delve more > >into > > > > > the > > > > > earlier chapters. > > > > > > > > > > On the plus side, there is plenty "eye-candy" of the leatherwork on > >the > > > > > various sheaths. I am building a web-page that excerpts the seax > >sheaths > > > > > > > > > > from our period. > > > > > > > > > > Douglas > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > list-regia-na mailing list > > > > > list-regia-na@lig.net > > > > > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > > > > > > > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > > >list-regia-na mailing list > > > >list-regia-na@lig.net > > > >http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > > > > > > > > <><><> <><><> <><><> > > > Beoð ge gesunde, > > > Oswald of Baldurstrand > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/California_Viking_Age > > > http://www.geocities.com/baldurstrand/ > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: > > > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > list-regia-na mailing list > > > list-regia-na@lig.net > > > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > >list-regia-na mailing list > >list-regia-na@lig.net > >http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > > <><><> <><><> <><><> > Beoð ge gesunde, > Oswald of Baldurstrand > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/California_Viking_Age > http://www.geocities.com/baldurstrand/ > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. > > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na From kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Fri, 19 Apr 2002 00:10:58 +0100 Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 00:10:58 +0100 From: J. K. Siddorn kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] Insurance - please read This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0209_01C1E736.AE7EF290 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable >From my NAReS contacts I am growing concerned at the reports I am = getting from societies trying to renew their public liability insurance. = They have been getting horrific quotations or flat refusals to renew. We = paid ours in December, so are OK for the moment, but the year will slip = by swiftly enough. One black powder society with 900 members has been = quoted well over =A34,000. I have been hearing exactly similar stories from clubs and individuals = in my other hobby (stationary engines) where it was possible to readily = insure oneself for =A32,000,000 for the nominal sum of =A311.00. This = has been withdrawn entirely now. Speaking to our broker today (been with him for 25 years) he tells me = that the insurance companies have been so hard hit by September 11th and = the ever rising spiral of "compensation culture" claims that they are = feeding off each others fears and this is what is causing the rise. I know we have insurance professionals in our ranks and I would welcome = their private input so we may attempt to make ourselves ready for = renewal in the winter. Regards, Kim Siddorn. ------=_NextPart_000_0209_01C1E736.AE7EF290 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

From my NAReS contacts I am growing concerned = at the reports I am getting from societies trying to renew their = public=20 liability insurance. They have been getting horrific quotations or flat = refusals=20 to renew. We paid ours in December, so are OK for the moment, but the = year will=20 slip by swiftly enough. One black powder society with 900 members has = been=20 quoted well over =A34,000.

I have been hearing exactly similar stories = from clubs=20 and individuals in my other hobby (stationary engines) where it was = possible to=20 readily insure oneself for =A32,000,000 for the nominal sum of =A311.00. = This has=20 been withdrawn entirely now.

Speaking to our broker today (been with him = for 25=20 years) he tells me that the insurance companies have been so hard hit by = September 11th and the ever rising spiral of "compensation culture" = claims that=20 they are feeding off each others fears and this is what is causing the=20 rise.

I know we have insurance professionals in our = ranks and=20 I would welcome their private input so we may attempt to make ourselves = ready=20 for renewal in the winter.

Regards,

Kim Siddorn.

------=_NextPart_000_0209_01C1E736.AE7EF290-- From sudnserv5@netway.com Thu, 18 Apr 2002 22:28:00 -0400 Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 22:28:00 -0400 From: Sudden Service #5 sudnserv5@netway.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Chronicle - have you moved? This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C1E728.4C69E140 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable ----- Original Message -----=20 From: =20 To: Regia UK E-group ; list-regia-na@lig.net=20 Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 11:21 AM Subject: [Regia-NA] Chronicle - have you moved? If you have moved in the last three months and not told Gerry Fox, = then write your name here and send it straight back to me. I have not moved but I haven't received my Passport or any membership = papers since I sent the paperwork in during Jan, Jim Revells If you did not receive your Chronicle last time (number 64) then write = your name here and send it straight back to me. If you have not paid your subs, you will not get a Chronicle this = time. We cannot guarantee to provide a copy for late renewers once the = production run of 600 has been exhausted. Regards, Kim Siddorn. The early bird may get the worm - but the second mouse gets the cheese!=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C1E728.4C69E140 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

----- Original Message -----
From: =20
To: Regia UK E-group ; list-regia-na@lig.net

Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 = 11:21=20 AM

Subject: [Regia-NA] Chronicle - = have you=20 moved?

If you have moved in the last three months = and not=20 told Gerry Fox, then write your name here and send it straight back to = me.

I have not moved but I haven't received my = Passport=20 or any membership papers since I sent the paperwork = in during Jan,=20 Jim Revells

If you did not receive your Chronicle last = time=20 (number 64) then write your name here and send it straight back to=20 me.

If you have not paid your subs, you will = not get a=20 Chronicle this time. We cannot guarantee to provide a copy for late = renewers=20 once the production run of 600 has been exhausted.

Regards,

Kim Siddorn.

The early bird may get the worm -
but = the second=20 mouse gets the cheese!

------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C1E728.4C69E140-- From william.tate@mildenhall.af.mil Fri, 19 Apr 2002 08:10:05 +0100 Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 08:10:05 +0100 From: Tate William T Jr SSgt 352 OSS/SCSC william.tate@mildenhall.af.mil Subject: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths I love the English train system! I think it's marvelous! ...except that it can be a little expensive...a return ticket (roundtrip) from Ely to York on a Saturday last June cost me 45GBP (around $68). So anyone coming and planning to travel by rail, buy a travel card. Bill/Leifr -----Original Message----- From: J. K. Siddorn [mailto:kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk] Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 11:07 PM To: list-regia-na@lig.net Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths They only copied our vehicles when we got our foot in their motor industry first ;o)) They only like tea because they were settled from the Chinese mainland and took the custom with them. They are not like us at all: their light switches turn off downwards and their trains run on time! Regards, Kim Siddorn. The early bird may get the worm - but the second mouse gets the cheese! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Douglas Sunlin" To: Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 10:20 PM Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths > ...and you both drive on the wrong, er, left side of the road. > > ...and you do love your tea! > > See? > > > > >From: "J. K. Siddorn" > >Reply-To: list-regia-na@lig.net > >To: > >Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths > >Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 22:04:46 +0100 > > > >Wot, we live on an island with high rainfall and we like cars? That's about > >it I think ;o(( > > > >Regards, > > > > > >Kim Siddorn. > > > >The early bird may get the worm - > >but the second mouse gets the cheese! > > > > > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "Douglas Sunlin" > >To: > >Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 8:22 PM > >Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths > > > > > > > I think he's visualizing wearing it like a Japanese wakizashi or katana > > > sword. Geez, the Brits have enough in common with the Japanese, now > >this? > >;) > > > <><><> <><><> <><><> > > > > > > > > > >From: "Hazel Uzzell" > > > >Reply-To: list-regia-na@lig.net > > > >To: > > > >Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths > > > >Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 20:18:38 +0100 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Is it possible that sheathes were not "suspended" from the belts, > >but > > > > > just "wedged" between the belt and the body? > > > > > > > > > > Gregory G. Stapleton > > > > > > > > > > You could only wedge it in the back of the belt, or you wouldn't be > >able > > > >to bend over forwards...I think! > > > >Hazel U > > > > > > > > > > Martin: > > > > > > > > > > I give the book a mixed review. > > > > > > > > > > In writing about archaeology or any other technical subject, > > > > > understanding > > > > > of a very crucial concept often depends on careful and precise > > > > > terminology > > > > > and descriptive rhetoric. In the case of this book, a conclusive > > > > > desription > > > > > seems to be lacking of exactly how the seaxes were hung from a belt > >in > > > > > their > > > > > sheaths. Hence my original question. Perhaps I need to delve more > >into > > > > > the > > > > > earlier chapters. > > > > > > > > > > On the plus side, there is plenty "eye-candy" of the leatherwork on > >the > > > > > various sheaths. I am building a web-page that excerpts the seax > >sheaths > > > > > > > > > > from our period. > > > > > > > > > > Douglas > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > list-regia-na mailing list > > > > > list-regia-na@lig.net > > > > > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > > > > > > > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > > >list-regia-na mailing list > > > >list-regia-na@lig.net > > > >http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > > > > > > > > <><><> <><><> <><><> > > > Beoð ge gesunde, > > > Oswald of Baldurstrand > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/California_Viking_Age > > > http://www.geocities.com/baldurstrand/ > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: > > > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > list-regia-na mailing list > > > list-regia-na@lig.net > > > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > >list-regia-na mailing list > >list-regia-na@lig.net > >http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > > <><><> <><><> <><><> > Beoð ge gesunde, > Oswald of Baldurstrand > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/California_Viking_Age > http://www.geocities.com/baldurstrand/ > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. > > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na _______________________________________________ list-regia-na mailing list list-regia-na@lig.net http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na From kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Fri, 19 Apr 2002 09:40:01 +0100 Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 09:40:01 +0100 From: J. K. Siddorn kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths I can think of no more damning indictment of the US railways than to find US nationals admiring Britain's ramshackle, out-of-date, politically wrecked, expensive, complicated and occasionally dangerous railway system.;o)) Still, having travelled from Montreal to New York down the side of Lake Champlain where the trackway is patently sliding into the lake (the train goes VERY slowly guys, like 10mph or less) I cannot entirely disagree........ Regards, Kim Siddorn. The early bird may get the worm - but the second mouse gets the cheese! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tate William T Jr SSgt 352 OSS/SCSC" To: Sent: Friday, April 19, 2002 8:10 AM Subject: RE: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths > I love the English train system! I think it's marvelous! ...except that it > can be a little expensive...a return ticket (roundtrip) from Ely to York on > a Saturday last June cost me 45GBP (around $68). So anyone coming and > planning to travel by rail, buy a travel card. > > Bill/Leifr > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: J. K. Siddorn [mailto:kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk] > Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 11:07 PM > To: list-regia-na@lig.net > Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths > > > They only copied our vehicles when we got our foot in their motor industry > first ;o)) > > They only like tea because they were settled from the Chinese mainland and > took the custom with them. > > They are not like us at all: their light switches turn off downwards and > their trains run on time! > > Regards, > > > Kim Siddorn. > > The early bird may get the worm - > but the second mouse gets the cheese! > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Douglas Sunlin" > To: > Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 10:20 PM > Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths > > > > ...and you both drive on the wrong, er, left side of the road. > > > > ...and you do love your tea! > > > > See? > > > > > > > > >From: "J. K. Siddorn" > > >Reply-To: list-regia-na@lig.net > > >To: > > >Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths > > >Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 22:04:46 +0100 > > > > > >Wot, we live on an island with high rainfall and we like cars? That's > about > > >it I think ;o(( > > > > > >Regards, > > > > > > > > >Kim Siddorn. > > > > > >The early bird may get the worm - > > >but the second mouse gets the cheese! > > > > > > > > >----- Original Message ----- > > >From: "Douglas Sunlin" > > >To: > > >Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 8:22 PM > > >Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths > > > > > > > > > > I think he's visualizing wearing it like a Japanese wakizashi or > katana > > > > sword. Geez, the Brits have enough in common with the Japanese, now > > >this? > > >;) > > > > <><><> <><><> <><><> > > > > > > > > > > > > >From: "Hazel Uzzell" > > > > >Reply-To: list-regia-na@lig.net > > > > >To: > > > > >Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths > > > > >Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 20:18:38 +0100 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Is it possible that sheathes were not "suspended" from the belts, > > >but > > > > > > just "wedged" between the belt and the body? > > > > > > > > > > > > Gregory G. Stapleton > > > > > > > > > > > > You could only wedge it in the back of the belt, or you wouldn't > be > > >able > > > > >to bend over forwards...I think! > > > > >Hazel U > > > > > > > > > > > > Martin: > > > > > > > > > > > > I give the book a mixed review. > > > > > > > > > > > > In writing about archaeology or any other technical subject, > > > > > > understanding > > > > > > of a very crucial concept often depends on careful and precise > > > > > > terminology > > > > > > and descriptive rhetoric. In the case of this book, a conclusive > > > > > > desription > > > > > > seems to be lacking of exactly how the seaxes were hung from a > belt > > >in > > > > > > their > > > > > > sheaths. Hence my original question. Perhaps I need to delve more > > >into > > > > > > the > > > > > > earlier chapters. > > > > > > > > > > > > On the plus side, there is plenty "eye-candy" of the leatherwork > on > > >the > > > > > > various sheaths. I am building a web-page that excerpts the seax > > >sheaths > > > > > > > > > > > > from our period. > > > > > > > > > > > > Douglas > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > list-regia-na mailing list > > > > > > list-regia-na@lig.net > > > > > > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > > > >list-regia-na mailing list > > > > >list-regia-na@lig.net > > > > >http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > > > > > > > > > > > <><><> <><><> <><><> > > > > Beoð ge gesunde, > > > > Oswald of Baldurstrand > > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/California_Viking_Age > > > > http://www.geocities.com/baldurstrand/ > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > > > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: > > > > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > list-regia-na mailing list > > > > list-regia-na@lig.net > > > > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > > > > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > >list-regia-na mailing list > > >list-regia-na@lig.net > > >http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > > > > > <><><> <><><> <><><> > > Beoð ge gesunde, > > Oswald of Baldurstrand > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/California_Viking_Age > > http://www.geocities.com/baldurstrand/ > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at > http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. > > > > _______________________________________________ > > list-regia-na mailing list > > list-regia-na@lig.net > > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > From t_neill@hotmail.com Fri, 19 Apr 2002 13:50:45 +0000 Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 13:50:45 +0000 From: Terry L. Neill t_neill@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Back to sheath fittings--Oh, and beds too >...except that it >can be a little expensive...a return ticket (roundtrip) from Ely to York on >a Saturday last June cost me 45GBP (around $68). So anyone coming and >planning to travel by rail, buy a travel card. > >Bill/Leifr That's not too bad. A single from Iselin, New Jersey (near New York City) to Baltimore, Maryland cost me $47. A return would have been more than $68 and it's further from Ely to York than Iselin to Baltimore. I've looked into Britrail and other travel cards. They *are* cheaper if you will be doing a moderate amount of travel and there is only ONE of you. For the two of us it's almost always cheaper to hire a car from the States and drive, even including petrol costs. (Gas mileage on our car three years ago was wonderful!) Hiring the car from Britain is much more expensive than doing it over here. Back to sheaths I agree with Kim that one is much more likely to lose a blade, especially something as small as a knife, if it's just thrust throuhg the belt. But Seaxes were longer than knifes. It might have worked, but I don't know that I would trust it. HOWEVER do we know that they even carried these things on their belts? Could they have been stored in decorative sheaths and taken out of, say a chest, when wanted--thus never worn at all? I've no idea--just speculating. My knife stays in a basket. Seaxes are Guy Things. About the dimensions of the bed. I might be willing to go along with the idea of a funary bed. But I'm not sure I'm willing to go along with the idea of an invalid bed. IIRC, there are several beds from slightly later times in Scandinavia that are surprisingly short, from today's view, and also inclined at the head. I've read that the Conventional Wisdom (sometimes wise, sometimes not) is that Our Ancestors may have slept propped up and not prone. So it wouldn't surprise me to find a bed from an earlier time inclined at the head. Also, it's perfectly possible for 5'6" me to fit rather comfortably in a 6' long bed. Though not comfortably, in a 2'?" wide bed, though I could do it. And further, what is the view from that time period of invalids? Especially young female (despite the high class) invalids? Would they have been catered to to this extent and buried with full honors? Regards! - Anarra/Terry _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Fri, 19 Apr 2002 15:01:11 +0100 Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 15:01:11 +0100 From: J. K. Siddorn kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] Joke ......... This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_017C_01C1E7B3.0AF73560 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Stolen from Chris Boulton. Recently a routine police patrol was parked outside a local neighborhood = bar.=20 > >Late in the evening the officer noticed a man leaving the bar so = intoxicated=20 > >that he could barely walk. The man stumbled around the parking lot = for a few=20 > >minutes with the officer quietly observing. After what seemed an = eternity and=20 > >trying his keys on five different vehicles, the man managed to find = his own=20 > >car, which he fell into.=20 > >=20 > >He was there for a few minutes as a number of other patrons left the = bar and=20 > >drove off. Finally he started the car, switched the wipers on and off = (it=20 > >was a dry night), flicked the hazard flasher on and off, tooted the = horn and=20 > >then switched on the lights. He moved the vehicle forward a few = inches,=20 > >reversed a little and then remained stationary for a few more minutes = as more=20 > >patrons left in their vehicles. At last he pulled out of the parking = lot and=20 > >started to drive slowly down the street. The police officer, having = patiently=20 > >waited all this time, now started up his patrol car, put on the = flashing=20 > >lights, promptly pulled the man over and carried out a Breathalyzer = test. To=20 > >his amazement the Breathalyzer indicated no evidence of the man = having=20 > >consumed alcohol at all!=20 > >=20 > >Dumbfounded, the officer said "I'll have to ask you to accompany me = to the=20 > >Police station. This Breathalyzer equipment must be broken." "I doubt = it,"=20 > >said the man, "Tonight I'm the designated decoy."=20 Regards, Kim Siddorn. The early bird may get the worm - but the second mouse gets the cheese!=20 ------=_NextPart_000_017C_01C1E7B3.0AF73560 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Stolen from Chris Boulton.

Recently a = routine police=20 patrol was parked outside a local neighborhood bar.

> >Late in the evening the officer noticed a man leaving the = bar so=20 intoxicated

> >that he could barely walk. The man stumbled around the = parking lot=20 for a few

> >minutes with the officer quietly observing. After what = seemed an=20 eternity and

> >trying his keys on five different vehicles, the man = managed to=20 find his own

> >car, which he fell into.

> >

> >He was there for a few minutes as a number of other = patrons left=20 the bar and

> >drove off. Finally he started the car, switched the wipers = on and=20 off (it

> >was a dry night), flicked the hazard flasher on and off, = tooted=20 the horn and

> >then switched on the lights. He moved the vehicle forward = a few=20 inches,

> >reversed a little and then remained stationary for a few = more=20 minutes as more

> >patrons left in their vehicles. At last he pulled out of = the=20 parking lot and

> >started to drive slowly down the street. The police = officer,=20 having patiently

> >waited all this time, now started up his patrol car, put = on the=20 flashing

> >lights, promptly pulled the man over and carried out a=20 Breathalyzer test. To

> >his amazement the Breathalyzer indicated no evidence of = the man=20 having

> >consumed alcohol at all!

> >

> >Dumbfounded, the officer said "I'll have to ask you to = accompany=20 me to the

> >Police station. This Breathalyzer equipment must be = broken." "I=20 doubt it,"

> >said the man, "Tonight I'm the designated decoy."=20

Regards,

Kim Siddorn.

The early bird may get the worm -
but the second mouse gets the = cheese!=20

------=_NextPart_000_017C_01C1E7B3.0AF73560-- From kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Fri, 19 Apr 2002 15:08:21 +0100 Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 15:08:21 +0100 From: J. K. Siddorn kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] British Rail ticket prices I'd honestly recommend you book the ticket WELL in advance. Some ticket prices only apply to a few seats on each train, so they can say "seats from....". It cost me £49.00 the other day from London to Bristol because I booked it only four days in advance. Not only were there no seats left on that train (they are hourly) but no other train for TWO DAYS either side had any available at the advertised price of £21.00 Regards, Kim Siddorn. The early bird may get the worm - but the second mouse gets the cheese! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Terry L. Neill" To: Sent: Friday, April 19, 2002 2:50 PM Subject: [Regia-NA] Back to sheath fittings--Oh, and beds too > >...except that it > >can be a little expensive...a return ticket (roundtrip) from Ely to York on > >a Saturday last June cost me 45GBP (around $68). So anyone coming and > >planning to travel by rail, buy a travel card. > > > >Bill/Leifr > > > That's not too bad. A single from Iselin, New Jersey (near New York City) > to Baltimore, Maryland cost me $47. A return would have been more than $68 > and it's further from Ely to York than Iselin to Baltimore. > > I've looked into Britrail and other travel cards. They *are* cheaper if you > will be doing a moderate amount of travel and there is only ONE of you. For > the two of us it's almost always cheaper to hire a car from the States and > drive, even including petrol costs. (Gas mileage on our car three years ago > was wonderful!) Hiring the car from Britain is much more expensive than > doing it over here. > > > Back to sheaths > > I agree with Kim that one is much more likely to lose a blade, especially > something as small as a knife, if it's just thrust throuhg the belt. But > Seaxes were longer than knifes. It might have worked, but I don't know that > I would trust it. > > HOWEVER do we know that they even carried these things on their belts? > Could they have been stored in decorative sheaths and taken out of, say a > chest, when wanted--thus never worn at all? I've no idea--just speculating. > My knife stays in a basket. Seaxes are Guy Things. > > > > About the dimensions of the bed. > > I might be willing to go along with the idea of a funary bed. But I'm not > sure I'm willing to go along with the idea of an invalid bed. > > IIRC, there are several beds from slightly later times in Scandinavia that > are surprisingly short, from today's view, and also inclined at the head. > I've read that the Conventional Wisdom (sometimes wise, sometimes not) is > that Our Ancestors may have slept propped up and not prone. So it wouldn't > surprise me to find a bed from an earlier time inclined at the head. > > Also, it's perfectly possible for 5'6" me to fit rather comfortably in a 6' > long bed. Though not comfortably, in a 2'?" wide bed, though I could do it. > > And further, what is the view from that time period of invalids? Especially > young female (despite the high class) invalids? Would they have been > catered to to this extent and buried with full honors? > > Regards! > > - Anarra/Terry > > _________________________________________________________________ > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > From andrew.nicholson@dumgal.gov.uk Fri, 19 Apr 2002 16:41:27 +0100 Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 16:41:27 +0100 From: Nicholson, Andrew andrew.nicholson@dumgal.gov.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] FW: Rare Anglo-Saxon Glass Bowl Survives Burial for 1400 Years (E H Press Release) Slightly out of period, but amazing nonetheless -----Original Message----- From: Alex Hunt [mailto:AlexHunt@BRITARCH.AC.UK] Sent: 18 April 2002 14:34 To: BRITARCH@JISCMAIL.AC.UK Subject: Rare Anglo-Saxon Glass Bowl Survives Burial for 1400 Years (EH Pr ess Release) English Heritage Press Release, 18th April 2002 RARE ANGLO-SAXON GLASS BOWL SURVIVES BURIAL FOR 1400 YEARS Important Site's Discovery is Vindication of Portable Antiquities Scheme A rare glass bowl, dating from the late fifth or early sixth century, has been retrieved intact by an English Heritage conservator from a magnificent collection of grave goods unearthed in an Anglo-Saxon cemetery in the New Forest area of Hampshire. The graves were excavated by Time Team for a live Channel 4 broadcast in August 2001, after a metal detectorist discovered a Byzantine brass bucket at the site and reported it to Winchester Museum. In what is thought to be a unique combination, the bowl, which was probably imported all the way from the Rhineland, was found inside one of six wooden buckets buried with skeletons in the graves. The fragile vessel, pale green with delicate white trails on the outside, measuring about five inches across and one and a half inches high, was a miraculous survivor not only of its travels from abroad but of a sumptuous pagan burial rite, most likely symbolic of feasting. It was discovered at English Heritage's Centre for Archaeology at Fort Cumberland in Portsmouth, where the excavated artefacts have been analysed and conserved. The discovery of so many ceremonial buckets of this kind from one burial site is an extreme rarity. About six inches high, they are made of wooden staves bound with copper alloy bands and could have contained food or drink. The grave goods included spearheads, knives, tweezers, shield bosses, copper alloy buckles and a Frankish buckle plate richly inlaid with garnets and blue glass. These possessions reflect the preoccupations of communities in an uncertain age, shortly after the Roman Empire lost control of Britain. The country had broken up into a patchwork of small territories under the control of warrior elites, many of whom had strong links with continental barbarian tribes. The Frankish cup and buckle plate would have been high status objects, buried in the graves in a display of power. David Miles, Chief Archaeologist at English Heritage, said: "It is marvellous that this fragile cup which gives a rare and evocative glimpse of early Anglo-Saxon life has survived intact in such wonderful condition. This and the other remarkable finds are all the more valuable now that so many Anglo-Saxon graves and the priceless information they contain about our past are being lost to deep ploughing." For conservator Margaret Brooks the discovery of the glass bowl hidden in hard clay at the bottom of the bucket was a high point in her career. Just retiring after 20 years with English Heritage, she said: "I couldn't believe it when I first spotted the delicate green glass of the bowl, which was completely unexpected as none have ever been found in buckets before. It was a thrilling experience to tease it gradually from its hiding place and realise it was in one piece." The discovery of the site and its subsequent excavation represents a resounding success for the Portable Antiquities Scheme, a pilot voluntary recording scheme designed to encourage members of the public to report any artefacts they find. Sally Worrell, liaison officer for the scheme at Winchester Museum, who initiated the project and invited Time Team to excavate the site, said: "Thanks to the action of the public-spirited metal detectorist who reported his find to me and enabled the dig to go ahead we now have a wealth of new information about the site. The project has demonstrated the enormous benefits of strengthening links between professional archaeologists and interested members of the public who find ancient objects." The objects from the graves were analysed in Fort Cumberland's high-tech XRF spectrometer. This X-ray analysis technique is ideal for archaeology because items can be placed whole inside the machine and they are not damaged in the process. Directed at small areas, less than half a millimetre in diameter, the X-rays can almost instantly determine the composition of the material. Examination of the glass bowl revealed that the glass, made up of soda, lime and silica, had been melted in a furnace and inflated and shaped on the end of a blowing iron. Opaque white trails (coloured with tin and lead) were added below the rim and pressed into the glass. The style is Frankish, simpler than that produced by more sophisticated Roman techniques such as enamelling and engraving. This particular kind of bowl is mostly found in the Rhineland and rarely appears in Britain. The staves of many of the buckets survived in remarkably good condition because of the amount of copper-alloy in the bands which mineralised the wood. The wood was identified using a scanning electron microscope. Three buckets were made of yew, as is usual for this type of object, and when new they would have had a splendid russet hue with light and dark stripes. One bucket was made of pine, an unusual wood to find so far south. It could perhaps have come from the north of Britain or the continent. Another bucket appears to be made of juniper, though more analysis is needed before this can be verified. If confirmed, it would be the first bucket made of juniper ever to have been recorded. A scrap of material found on a buckle is also being analysed and could provide vital information about yarn and cloth manufacture. For Time Team the significance of the finds lies in what they and people they were buried with can tell us about life on the edge in Dark Age Britain. It was a competitive, rapidly changing society where families would have been jockeying for position and proclaiming their importance with the richness of their grave-goods. Tim Taylor, series producer of Time Team, said: "This has to be one of our most amazing Time Teams. Not only were the large number of objects exceptional but the way the skeletons were laid out and the information we uncovered made us all feel that we were working on a site that might actually change the way we look at this really important period of British history." Archaeologists believe that the high proportion of weapon-graves and double burials, plus the multiple bucket burials and the number of foreign imports, could indicate a complex society with a greater contact with Europe and the Mediterranean than has often been supposed. The skeletons are being examined at Bristol University. Analysis so far has revealed that half of them were from people under the age of 25 and two were children. No injuries and no obvious causes of death have yet come to light. The public will be able to see the artefacts recovered from the site in a special 'Invaders' exhibition which will travel round Hampshire, starting in May at Andover Museum. PHOTOGRAPHS Images are available on the Press Association's Picselect site on www.papicselect.com in the English Heritage folder. 0207 963 7531 NOTES 1. In the 6th century it was generally the habit of west Saxons (whose area included Hampshire) to bury bodies whole (inhumation). In East Anglia cremation was more usual. Grave-goods were common to both practices. 2. After the Roman armies left Europe Frankish tribes who gained dominance in the north, especially Germany and Belgium, employed a new style of glassware with a simpler form of decoration which could be carried out at a furnace by the glass-maker. The elite of Anglo-Saxon society still appreciated glass vessels and imported them from the continent as prestige objects. There is also evidence for manufacture of glass in Britain at this time. The vessels are found in high status graves but are frequently damaged. Buckets are known from a number of sites in the eastern half of the country where the Anglo-Saxons settled, though generally only one or two per cemetery have been found. 3. The Portable Antiquities Scheme was set up by the government to encourage the recording of the thousands of archaeological objects people find every year, either by chance or with metal detectors. A pilot scheme is currently running in half of England and in Wales and it is hoped that this will be extended in due course. Full information is available on the Portable Antiquities Website at www.finds.org.uk Contacts: Sally Worrell, Hampshire Finds Liaison Officer on 01962 848269; Roger Bland, Portable Antiquities Scheme Co-ordinator 02072116924. 4. Archaeological work at the site included survey work by Southampton University and English Heritage and an evaluation excavation undertaken by Berkshire Archaeological Services on behalf of Hampshire County Council and the Hampshire County Archaeologist. 5. The 10th series of Time Team is currently in production. The ninth series is being broadcast on Sunday evenings on Channel 4. The Time Team website is at: www.channel4.com/history/timeteam/ From SchusterRL@umsystem.edu Fri, 19 Apr 2002 10:47:42 -0500 Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 10:47:42 -0500 From: Schuster, Robert L. SchusterRL@umsystem.edu Subject: [Regia-NA] FW: Rare Anglo-Saxon Glass Bowl Survives Burial for 1400 Years (EH Press Release) anyone mind if i forward this to another list? Halvgrimr i try to always at least ask to avoid upsetting anyone -----Original Message----- From: Nicholson, Andrew [mailto:andrew.nicholson@dumgal.gov.uk] Sent: Friday, April 19, 2002 10:41 AM To: 'list-regia-na@lig.net' Subject: [Regia-NA] FW: Rare Anglo-Saxon Glass Bowl Survives Burial for 1400 Years (EH Press Release) Slightly out of period, but amazing nonetheless -----Original Message----- From: Alex Hunt [mailto:AlexHunt@BRITARCH.AC.UK] Sent: 18 April 2002 14:34 To: BRITARCH@JISCMAIL.AC.UK Subject: Rare Anglo-Saxon Glass Bowl Survives Burial for 1400 Years (EH Pr ess Release) English Heritage Press Release, 18th April 2002 RARE ANGLO-SAXON GLASS BOWL SURVIVES BURIAL FOR 1400 YEARS Important Site's Discovery is Vindication of Portable Antiquities Scheme A rare glass bowl, dating from the late fifth or early sixth century, = has been retrieved intact by an English Heritage conservator from a = magnificent collection of grave goods unearthed in an Anglo-Saxon cemetery in the = New Forest area of Hampshire. The graves were excavated by Time Team for a = live Channel 4 broadcast in August 2001, after a metal detectorist discovered = a Byzantine brass bucket at the site and reported it to Winchester Museum. In what is thought to be a unique combination, the bowl, which was = probably imported all the way from the Rhineland, was found inside one of six = wooden buckets buried with skeletons in the graves. The fragile vessel, pale = green with delicate white trails on the outside, measuring about five inches across and one and a half inches high, was a miraculous survivor not = only of its travels from abroad but of a sumptuous pagan burial rite, most = likely symbolic of feasting. It was discovered at English Heritage's Centre for Archaeology at Fort Cumberland in Portsmouth, where the excavated = artefacts have been analysed and conserved. The discovery of so many ceremonial buckets of this kind from one burial site is an extreme rarity. About six inches high, they are made of = wooden staves bound with copper alloy bands and could have contained food or = drink. The grave goods included spearheads, knives, tweezers, shield bosses, = copper alloy buckles and a Frankish buckle plate richly inlaid with garnets and blue glass. These possessions reflect the preoccupations of communities = in an uncertain age, shortly after the Roman Empire lost control of = Britain. The country had broken up into a patchwork of small territories under = the control of warrior elites, many of whom had strong links with = continental barbarian tribes. The Frankish cup and buckle plate would have been high status objects, buried in the graves in a display of power. David Miles, Chief Archaeologist at English Heritage, said: "It is marvellous that this fragile cup which gives a rare and evocative = glimpse of early Anglo-Saxon life has survived intact in such wonderful condition. = This and the other remarkable finds are all the more valuable now that so = many Anglo-Saxon graves and the priceless information they contain about our = past are being lost to deep ploughing." For conservator Margaret Brooks the discovery of the glass bowl hidden = in hard clay at the bottom of the bucket was a high point in her career. = Just retiring after 20 years with English Heritage, she said: "I couldn't = believe it when I first spotted the delicate green glass of the bowl, which was completely unexpected as none have ever been found in buckets before. It = was a thrilling experience to tease it gradually from its hiding place and realise it was in one piece." The discovery of the site and its subsequent excavation represents a resounding success for the Portable Antiquities Scheme, a pilot = voluntary recording scheme designed to encourage members of the public to report = any artefacts they find. Sally Worrell, liaison officer for the scheme at Winchester Museum, who initiated the project and invited Time Team to excavate the site, said: "Thanks to the action of the public-spirited metal detectorist who = reported his find to me and enabled the dig to go ahead we now have a wealth of = new information about the site. The project has demonstrated the enormous benefits of strengthening links between professional archaeologists and interested members of the public who find ancient objects." The objects from the graves were analysed in Fort Cumberland's high-tech = XRF spectrometer. This X-ray analysis technique is ideal for archaeology = because items can be placed whole inside the machine and they are not damaged in = the process. Directed at small areas, less than half a millimetre in = diameter, the X-rays can almost instantly determine the composition of the = material. Examination of the glass bowl revealed that the glass, made up of soda, = lime and silica, had been melted in a furnace and inflated and shaped on the = end of a blowing iron. Opaque white trails (coloured with tin and lead) were added below the rim and pressed into the glass. The style is Frankish, simpler than that produced by more sophisticated Roman techniques such = as enamelling and engraving. This particular kind of bowl is mostly found = in the Rhineland and rarely appears in Britain. The staves of many of the buckets survived in remarkably good condition because of the amount of copper-alloy in the bands which mineralised the wood. The wood was identified using a scanning electron microscope. = Three buckets were made of yew, as is usual for this type of object, and when = new they would have had a splendid russet hue with light and dark stripes. = One bucket was made of pine, an unusual wood to find so far south. It could perhaps have come from the north of Britain or the continent. Another = bucket appears to be made of juniper, though more analysis is needed before = this can be verified. If confirmed, it would be the first bucket made of = juniper ever to have been recorded. A scrap of material found on a buckle is also being analysed and could provide vital information about yarn and cloth manufacture. For Time Team the significance of the finds lies in what they and people they were buried with can tell us about life on the edge in Dark Age Britain. It was a competitive, rapidly changing society where families = would have been jockeying for position and proclaiming their importance with = the richness of their grave-goods. Tim Taylor, series producer of Time Team, said: "This has to be one of = our most amazing Time Teams. Not only were the large number of objects exceptional but the way the skeletons were laid out and the information we uncovered made us = all feel that we were working on a site that might actually change the way = we look at this really important period of British history." Archaeologists believe that the high proportion of weapon-graves and = double burials, plus the multiple bucket burials and the number of foreign = imports, could indicate a complex society with a greater contact with Europe and = the Mediterranean than has often been supposed. The skeletons are being examined at Bristol University. Analysis so far = has revealed that half of them were from people under the age of 25 and two = were children. No injuries and no obvious causes of death have yet come to = light. The public will be able to see the artefacts recovered from the site in = a special 'Invaders' exhibition which will travel round Hampshire, = starting in May at Andover Museum. PHOTOGRAPHS Images are available on the Press Association's Picselect site on www.papicselect.com in the English Heritage folder. 0207 963 7531 NOTES 1. In the 6th century it was generally the habit of west Saxons (whose = area included Hampshire) to bury bodies whole (inhumation). In East Anglia cremation was more usual. Grave-goods were common to both practices. 2. After the Roman armies left Europe Frankish tribes who gained = dominance in the north, especially Germany and Belgium, employed a new style of glassware with a simpler form of decoration which could be carried out = at a furnace by the glass-maker. The elite of Anglo-Saxon society still appreciated glass vessels and imported them from the continent as = prestige objects. There is also evidence for manufacture of glass in Britain at = this time. The vessels are found in high status graves but are frequently damaged. Buckets are known from a number of sites in the eastern half of = the country where the Anglo-Saxons settled, though generally only one or two = per cemetery have been found. 3. The Portable Antiquities Scheme was set up by the government to = encourage the recording of the thousands of archaeological objects people find = every year, either by chance or with metal detectors. A pilot scheme is = currently running in half of England and in Wales and it is hoped that this will = be extended in due course. Full information is available on the Portable Antiquities Website at www.finds.org.uk Contacts: Sally Worrell, Hampshire Finds Liaison Officer on 01962 = 848269; Roger Bland, Portable Antiquities Scheme Co-ordinator 02072116924. 4. Archaeological work at the site included survey work by Southampton University and English Heritage and an evaluation excavation undertaken = by Berkshire Archaeological Services on behalf of Hampshire County Council = and the Hampshire County Archaeologist. 5. The 10th series of Time Team is currently in production. The ninth = series is being broadcast on Sunday evenings on Channel 4. The Time Team = website is at: www.channel4.com/history/timeteam/ _______________________________________________ list-regia-na mailing list list-regia-na@lig.net http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na From Marfield66@aol.com Fri, 19 Apr 2002 16:07:17 -0400 Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 16:07:17 -0400 From: Marfield66@aol.com Marfield66@aol.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Seax sheaths Ian: Thanks for your and other people's responses regards the book details. I'll get moving on it right away. Martin F. From gythe@snrd.freeserve.co.uk Sat, 20 Apr 2002 21:04:40 +0100 Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 21:04:40 +0100 From: Hazel Uzzell gythe@snrd.freeserve.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] Colour perception This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00AF_01C1E8AE.FCD11940 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I am reading 'Travels with a Medieval Queen' by Mary Taylor Simeti, and = came across this, which I thought might be of interest. 'The Abbess, being a nun of the Benedictine order, wore a habit of black = wool, which was black in name only: by our lights, it would be a faded = shade of blue. According to the French historian Michel Pastoreau, in = the early middle ages, colour was perceived according to a ternary = system,completely different from our modern scientific perception of the = colour spectrum. The basic colour was white, with all its symbolic = charge of purity: black was the opposite of white, darkness, rather than = a specific hue. The other opposite of white was red, which ranges from = yellow through scarlet to purple and meant anything coloured, as the = Spanish words 'tinto' and 'colorado' both meaning 'red' still testify. = The gamut widened with the development of improved dyes and mordants = (during the 12C). During the 12C the washed out blue of woad was flanked = by the deep intense blue produced from indigo, imported ( to Italy) from = the southern Mediterranean. Interesting, huh? Hazel. ------=_NextPart_000_00AF_01C1E8AE.FCD11940 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I am reading 'Travels with a Medieval = Queen' by=20 Mary Taylor Simeti, and came across this, which I thought might be of=20 interest.

'The Abbess, being a nun of the = Benedictine order,=20 wore a habit of black wool, which was black in name only: by our lights, = it=20 would be a faded shade of blue. According to the French historian Michel = Pastoreau, in the early middle ages, colour was perceived according to a = ternary=20 system,completely different from our modern scientific perception of the = colour=20 spectrum. The basic colour was white, with all its symbolic charge of = purity:=20 black was the opposite of white, darkness, rather than a specific hue. = The other=20 opposite of white was red, which ranges from yellow through scarlet to = purple=20 and meant anything coloured, as the Spanish words 'tinto' and 'colorado' = both=20 meaning 'red' still testify. The gamut widened with the development of = improved=20 dyes and mordants (during the 12C). During the 12C the washed out blue = of woad=20 was flanked by the deep intense blue produced from indigo, imported ( to = Italy)=20 from the southern Mediterranean.

Interesting, huh?

Hazel.

------=_NextPart_000_00AF_01C1E8AE.FCD11940-- From tgs@idlh.net Sat, 20 Apr 2002 19:43:20 -0400 Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 19:43:20 -0400 From: TGS tgs@idlh.net Subject: [Regia-NA] Colour perception --=====================_457269==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed That is interesting. Would this then imply that when it says the English were fond of wearing 'red' that they were just wearing colorful clothing? Thanks, Tom At 09:04 PM 4/20/2002 +0100, Hazel Uzzell wrote: >I am reading 'Travels with a Medieval Queen' by Mary Taylor Simeti, and >came across this, which I thought might be of interest. > >'The Abbess, being a nun of the Benedictine order, wore a habit of black >wool, which was black in name only: by our lights, it would be a faded >shade of blue. According to the French historian Michel Pastoreau, in the >early middle ages, colour was perceived according to a ternary >system,completely different from our modern scientific perception of the >colour spectrum. The basic colour was white, with all its symbolic charge >of purity: black was the opposite of white, darkness, rather than a >specific hue. The other opposite of white was red, which ranges from >yellow through scarlet to purple and meant anything coloured, as the >Spanish words 'tinto' and 'colorado' both meaning 'red' still testify. The >gamut widened with the development of improved dyes and mordants (during >the 12C). During the 12C the washed out blue of woad was flanked by the >deep intense blue produced from indigo, imported ( to Italy) from the >southern Mediterranean. > >Interesting, huh? >Hazel. --=====================_457269==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" That is interesting. Would this then imply that when it says the English were fond of wearing 'red' that they were just wearing colorful clothing?

Thanks,
Tom

At 09:04 PM 4/20/2002 +0100, Hazel Uzzell wrote:

I am reading 'Travels with a Medieval Queen' by Mary Taylor Simeti, and came across this, which I thought might be of interest.

'The Abbess, being a nun of the Benedictine order, wore a habit of black wool, which was black in name only: by our lights, it would be a faded shade of blue. According to the French historian Michel Pastoreau, in the early middle ages, colour was perceived according to a ternary system,completely different from our modern scientific perception of the colour spectrum. The basic colour was white, with all its symbolic charge of purity: black was the opposite of white, darkness, rather than a specific hue. The other opposite of white was red, which ranges from yellow through scarlet to purple and meant anything coloured, as the Spanish words 'tinto' and 'colorado' both meaning 'red' still testify. The gamut widened with the development of improved dyes and mordants (during the 12C). During the 12C the washed out blue of woad was flanked by the deep intense blue produced from indigo, imported ( to Italy) from the southern Mediterranean.

Interesting, huh?
Hazel.

--=====================_457269==_.ALT-- From gerryfox@onetel.net.uk Sun, 21 Apr 2002 09:56:31 +0100 Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 09:56:31 +0100 From: Gerry Fox gerryfox@onetel.net.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] Calling Jim Revells This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0095_01C1E91A.D0376F80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Jim Plesae contact me directly on gerryfox@onetel.net.uk=20 thanks Gerry ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Sudden Service #5=20 To: list-regia-na@lig.net=20 Sent: Friday, April 19, 2002 3:28 AM Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Chronicle - have you moved? ----- Original Message -----=20 From: =20 To: Regia UK E-group ; list-regia-na@lig.net=20 Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 11:21 AM Subject: [Regia-NA] Chronicle - have you moved? If you have moved in the last three months and not told Gerry Fox, = then write your name here and send it straight back to me. I have not moved but I haven't received my Passport or any = membership papers since I sent the paperwork in during Jan, Jim Revells If you did not receive your Chronicle last time (number 64) then = write your name here and send it straight back to me. If you have not paid your subs, you will not get a Chronicle this = time. We cannot guarantee to provide a copy for late renewers once the = production run of 600 has been exhausted. Regards, Kim Siddorn. The early bird may get the worm - but the second mouse gets the cheese!=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0095_01C1E91A.D0376F80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi Jim

Plesae contact me directly on gerryfox@onetel.net.uk =

thanks

Gerry

----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Sudden=20 Service #5
To: list-regia-na@lig.net

Sent: Friday, April 19, 2002 = 3:28=20 AM

Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] = Chronicle - have=20 you moved?

----- Original Message -----
From: =20
To: Regia UK E-group ; list-regia-na@lig.net =

Sent: Thursday, April 18, = 2002 11:21=20 AM

Subject: [Regia-NA] Chronicle = - have=20 you moved?

If you have moved in the last three = months and not=20 told Gerry Fox, then write your name here and send it straight back = to=20 me.

I have not moved but I haven't received = my Passport=20 or any membership papers since I sent the paperwork = in during Jan,=20 Jim Revells

If you did not receive your Chronicle = last time=20 (number 64) then write your name here and send it straight back to=20 me.

If you have not paid your subs, you will = not get a=20 Chronicle this time. We cannot guarantee to provide a copy for late = renewers=20 once the production run of 600 has been exhausted.

Regards,

Kim Siddorn.

The early bird may get the worm -
but = the second=20 mouse gets the cheese!

------=_NextPart_000_0095_01C1E91A.D0376F80-- From capriest@cs.vassar.edu Sun, 21 Apr 2002 11:29:35 -0400 Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 11:29:35 -0400 From: Carolyn Priest-Dorman capriest@cs.vassar.edu Subject: [Regia-NA] Colour perception Hazel quoted from Simeti: >According to the French historian Michel Pastoreau, ... [snip] >The other opposite of white was red, which ranges from yellow through scarlet to purple and meant anything coloured,=20 In medieval European Jewish writings, red is the opposite of white and the two colors are characterized as the rose and the lily. (Accordingly, in this case "red" would have meant, approximately, "red.") Also, there is no moral judgment of purity vs. impurity between the two of them; they're both desirable to the balance of the universe. But then, historic Jewish sources don't consider the world a dichotomy of good and evil as much as they do a dichotomy of Justice and Mercy. The trick is to find the right balance of Justice and Mercy; I suspect the same is true of Jewish ideas about white and red. >During the 12C the washed out blue of woad was flanked by the deep intense blue produced from indigo, I've gotten some extremely saturated blues using Toulouse woad, and I'm just a beginner. Why the author would think that woad is a washed-out color, or that indigo overtook it in the 12th century, is beyond me! But I get the feeling that neither Pastoreau or Simeti is actually acquainted with medieval textile technology. =20 Carolyn Priest-Dorman =DE=F3ra Sharptooth http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/thora.html "Never trust anything that can think for itself if you can't see where it keeps its brain."=20 -- J.K. Rowling From MMagnusM@bellsouth.net Sun, 21 Apr 2002 15:49:48 -0400 Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 15:49:48 -0400 From: rmhowe MMagnusM@bellsouth.net Subject: [Regia-NA] Neat Websites http://www.re-enact.com/Rayne%20home1.htm Rayne Foundry, replica cauldrons, pans, chafing dish, pestles and mortars. http://www.re-enact.com/ The UK reenactor website. From kesomers@megalink.net Fri, 19 Apr 2002 22:27:03 -0400 Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 22:27:03 -0400 From: ed somers kesomers@megalink.net Subject: [Regia-NA] Beds In earlier periods 1600-1800 people slept propped up in bed like an invalid. Is it possible that this was an accepted way to sleep during this period. Possibly for upperclass?? At 01:32 PM 04/18/2002 -0700, Robb Schuster wrote: > >--- rmhowe wrote: >> A bit on the subject of beds: >> >> Everyone likes to try to replicate the smaller beds >> from the >> Oseberg ship. Problem is that that is a rare and now >> delicate >> book if you can find one. >> >> I have been trying for about a year to locate: >> Speake, G.: A Saxon Bed Burial on Swallowcliffe Down > > >------------------------------------- > > >i have this book, its great! > >keep in mind that there are several Saxon beds in this >book, as well as a few other much later period beds. >there are beds with woven reeds as a "box spring" and >also another bed with "box springs" that are made of >riveted steel strips and is suspended via rope and >iron loops from the sides of the bed (pics available >upon request) > > >also keep in mind that it is speculated that this bed >may not have been a normal "sleeping bed". The >dimensions are very small and wouldn't have >comfortably accommodated the average person (IMO), it >was 6ft long and 2ft 9 inches wide, granted the >pathology done on the skull fragment determined the >"owner" of the grave was a female, aged 18-25, and >they estimated by pathology of a femur bone >measurements that she was 5 ft 3 inches tall > > >when discussing it with our group here we came to the >conclusion that it may have served wither of the two >purposes listed below: > >1) that is was a bed build specifically for a burial >(as one reconstruction shows that some of the irons >fittings found on the side of the bed may have been >handles similar to the handles used to lift a modern >day casket) > >2) that is was the bed of an invalid (someone not able >to get out of bed for what ever reason) as the angle >of some of the iron work fittings at the head of the >bed seem to indicate that this bed had a tilted back >board (shaped like one of the big TV pillows) > >i found the book very interesting, it also shows a >picture of a later period (15c i think) campaigning >bed that looks amazing like the old outdoors metal >folding patio furniture (made of thin metal bands) >that my grandparents used to own > >Halvgrimr > > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax >http://taxes.yahoo.com/ >_______________________________________________ >list-regia-na mailing list >list-regia-na@lig.net >http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > From gythe@snrd.freeserve.co.uk Mon, 22 Apr 2002 09:07:55 +0100 Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 09:07:55 +0100 From: Hazel Uzzell gythe@snrd.freeserve.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] Spindles This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0077_01C1E9DD.30A8D620 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have had a request from another group, and I wonder if anyone can = help. Has anyone got any information on 'top weighted' drop spindles in use in = Wales? I assume in the Early Medieval period. Thanks, Hazel. ------=_NextPart_000_0077_01C1E9DD.30A8D620 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have had a request from another = group, and I=20 wonder if anyone can help.

Has anyone got any information on 'top = weighted'=20 drop spindles in use in Wales? I assume in the Early Medieval=20 period.

Thanks,

Hazel.

------=_NextPart_000_0077_01C1E9DD.30A8D620-- From snorri@vikingasaga.freeserve.co.uk Mon, 22 Apr 2002 09:38:36 +0100 Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 09:38:36 +0100 From: Ian Uzzell snorri@vikingasaga.freeserve.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] Where are you Tom? This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0023_01C1E9E1.7A245780 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Tom, I tried to send you an e-mail off list but it failed and was eventually = returned. Have you changed e-mail address? What e-mail address can I contact you on? Ian Uzzell snorri@vikingasaga.co.uk ------=_NextPart_000_0023_01C1E9E1.7A245780 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Tom,

I tried to send you an e-mail off list = but it=20 failed and was eventually returned.

Have you changed e-mail = address?

What e-mail address can I contact = you=20 on?

Ian Uzzell

snorri@vikingasaga.co.uk

------=_NextPart_000_0023_01C1E9E1.7A245780-- From kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Mon, 22 Apr 2002 10:51:16 +0100 Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 10:51:16 +0100 From: J. K. Siddorn kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] Neat Websites A quick glance here makes my alarm bells ring! Cauldrons in our period are not made from cast iron, they were fabricated from iron sheet and riveted together in sections. The cauldrons illustrated are vastly overpriced in my opinion. The bows look OK although that it is difficult to tell much from the squidgy pictures .Before any UK Regia member buys a bow for use in the society, they out to talk to Chris Boulton. The bowyer mentions that he was trained by Richard Galloway and - like Roland - I used to know Dick , sometime WWII flight gunner in Boulton Paul Defiants (he was in the ONLY aircraft to return from France unscathed in a sortie in which they lost the rest of the squadron) who described flying in them as "rather like attending your own funeral!" He was then posted to operational bombing missions and was Tail End Charlie (rear gunner) for TWO tours of Duty in Lancasters. He told me that he got the impression that the RAF did not like him very much. He lived on a barge on a canal near London and had an amazing collection of bows, one from an Egyptian tomb. Regards, Kim Siddorn. The early bird may get the worm - but the second mouse gets the cheese! ----- Original Message ----- From: "rmhowe" To: "- Atlantia" ; "- Regia Anglorum - North America" Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2002 8:49 PM Subject: [Regia-NA] Neat Websites > http://www.re-enact.com/Rayne%20home1.htm > Rayne Foundry, replica cauldrons, pans, chafing dish, pestles > and mortars. > > http://www.re-enact.com/ > The UK reenactor website. > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > From gythe@snrd.freeserve.co.uk Mon, 22 Apr 2002 13:55:37 +0100 Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 13:55:37 +0100 From: Hazel Uzzell gythe@snrd.freeserve.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] More colour perception This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0040_01C1EA05.615FF820 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable First of all, I will do what I should have done in the first place, and = give you Simeti's source: Michael Pastoureau. 'L'Uomo e il Color' supp no 5 to 'Storria e Dossier' = March 1987 I agree with Carolyn that there is nothing wrong with woad blue, and I'm = sure that Simeti is not a dyer, in fact, reading the 'blurb' on the book = jacket, her interest seems to be Italian food! Without getting too far into the realms of theosophy, I recommend C.R.Dodwell 'Anglo-Saxon Art - A New Perspective' The chapters on painting, sculpture and textiles give as good an insight = as any into the possible Anglo-Saxon perception of colour. Regards, Hazel ------=_NextPart_000_0040_01C1EA05.615FF820 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

First of all, I will do what I should = have done in=20 the first place, and give you Simeti's source:

Michael Pastoureau. 'L'Uomo e il Color' = supp no 5=20 to 'Storria e Dossier' March 1987

I agree with Carolyn that there is = nothing wrong=20 with woad blue, and I'm sure that Simeti is not a dyer, in fact, reading = the=20 'blurb' on the book jacket, her interest seems to be Italian = food!

Without getting too far into the realms = of=20 theosophy, I recommend

C.R.Dodwell 'Anglo-Saxon Art - A New=20 Perspective'

The chapters on painting, sculpture and = textiles=20 give as good an insight as any into the possible Anglo-Saxon perception = of=20 colour.

Regards,

Hazel

------=_NextPart_000_0040_01C1EA05.615FF820-- From SchusterRL@umsystem.edu Mon, 22 Apr 2002 08:19:06 -0500 Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 08:19:06 -0500 From: Schuster, Robert L. SchusterRL@umsystem.edu Subject: [Regia-NA] Beds In earlier periods 1600-1800 people slept propped up in bed like an invalid. Is it possible that this was an accepted way to sleep during = this period. Possibly for upperclass?? i guess its possible, this is the first ive heard of anyone sleeping in = this position, i may have to look into it and reevaluate my opinion on = the issue Halvgrimr From jcain@insight.rr.com Mon, 22 Apr 2002 09:54:06 -0400 Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 09:54:06 -0400 From: Joy Cain jcain@insight.rr.com Subject: [Regia-NA] More colour perception > This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --MS_Mac_OE_3102314047_4757006_MIME_Part Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit I have also seen a few books on the subject reviewed in Spin-Off. The one I could locate on Amazon was Color: The Story of Dyes and Pigments by Francois Delamare and Bernard Guineau. It has a chapter specifically on the dyes and paints of the Middle Ages. More of a history book than a dye book, I am hoping to get a copy soon. Joy From: "Hazel Uzzell" Reply-To: list-regia-na@lig.net Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 13:55:37 +0100 To: "Regia NA" Subject: [Regia-NA] More colour perception First of all, I will do what I should have done in the first place, and give you Simeti's source: Michael Pastoureau. 'L'Uomo e il Color' supp no 5 to 'Storria e Dossier' March 1987 I agree with Carolyn that there is nothing wrong with woad blue, and I'm sure that Simeti is not a dyer, in fact, reading the 'blurb' on the book jacket, her interest seems to be Italian food! Without getting too far into the realms of theosophy, I recommend C.R.Dodwell 'Anglo-Saxon Art - A New Perspective' The chapters on painting, sculpture and textiles give as good an insight as any into the possible Anglo-Saxon perception of colour. Regards, Hazel --MS_Mac_OE_3102314047_4757006_MIME_Part Content-type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable Re: [Regia-NA] More colour perception I have also seen a few books on the subject reviewed in Spin-Off. The one I= could locate on Amazon was Color: The Story of Dyes and Pigments by Francoi= s Delamare and Bernard Guineau. It has a chapter specifically on the dyes an= d paints of the Middle Ages. More of a history book than a dye book, I am ho= ping to get a copy soon.

Joy

From: "Hazel Uzzell" <gythe@snrd.freeserve.co.uk&= gt;
Reply-To: list-regia-na@lig.net
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 13:55:37 +0100
To: "Regia NA" <list-regia-na@lig.net>
Subject: [Regia-NA] More colour perception

First of all, I will do what = I should have done in the first place, and give you Simeti's source:
Michael Pastoureau. 'L'Uomo e il Color' supp no 5 to 'Storria e Dossier' Ma= rch 1987

I agree with Carolyn that there is nothin= g wrong with woad blue, and I'm sure that Simeti is not a dyer, in fact, rea= ding the 'blurb' on the book jacket, her interest seems to be Italian food!<= BR>
Without getting too far into the realms o= f theosophy, I recommend
C.R.Dodwell 'Anglo-Saxon Art - A New Perspective'

The chapters on painting, sculpture and t= extiles give as good an insight as any into the possible Anglo-Saxon percept= ion of colour.

Regards,
Hazel

--MS_Mac_OE_3102314047_4757006_MIME_Part-- From gythe@snrd.freeserve.co.uk Mon, 22 Apr 2002 18:59:22 +0100 Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 18:59:22 +0100 From: Hazel Uzzell gythe@snrd.freeserve.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] More colour perception This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C1EA2F.D0A4AC60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Re: [Regia-NA] More colour perception Dear Joy, This is an interesting = book. I got a copy when I was doing the booklet on pigments for shields. = It has some interesting details on woad dyeing. Regards, Hazel I have also seen a few books on the subject reviewed in Spin-Off. The = one I could locate on Amazon was Color: The Story of Dyes and Pigments = by Francois Delamare and Bernard Guineau. It has a chapter specifically = on the dyes and paints of the Middle Ages. More of a history book than a = dye book, I am hoping to get a copy soon. Joy From: "Hazel Uzzell" Reply-To: list-regia-na@lig.net Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 13:55:37 +0100 To: "Regia NA" Subject: [Regia-NA] More colour perception First of all, I will do what I should have done in the first place, = and give you Simeti's source: Michael Pastoureau. 'L'Uomo e il Color' supp no 5 to 'Storria e = Dossier' March 1987 I agree with Carolyn that there is nothing wrong with woad blue, and = I'm sure that Simeti is not a dyer, in fact, reading the 'blurb' on the = book jacket, her interest seems to be Italian food! Without getting too far into the realms of theosophy, I recommend C.R.Dodwell 'Anglo-Saxon Art - A New Perspective' The chapters on painting, sculpture and textiles give as good an = insight as any into the possible Anglo-Saxon perception of colour. Regards, Hazel ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C1EA2F.D0A4AC60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Re: [Regia-NA] More colour perception

Dear Joy, This is an interesting = book. I got=20 a copy when I was doing the booklet on pigments for shields. It has some = interesting details on woad dyeing.

Regards,

Hazel

I=20 have also seen a few books on the subject reviewed in Spin-Off. The = one I=20 could locate on Amazon was Color: The Story of Dyes and Pigments by = Francois=20 Delamare and Bernard Guineau. It has a chapter specifically on the = dyes and=20 paints of the Middle Ages. More of a history book than a dye book, I = am hoping=20 to get a copy soon.

Joy

From: "Hazel Uzzell"=20 <gythe@snrd.freeserve.co.uk>
Reply-To:=20 list-regia-na@lig.net
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 13:55:37=20 +0100
To: "Regia NA" = <list-regia-na@lig.net>
Subject:=20 [Regia-NA] More colour perception

First of all, I will do = what I=20 should have done in the first place, and give you Simeti's=20 source:
Michael Pastoureau. 'L'Uomo e il Color' supp no 5 to = 'Storria e=20 Dossier' March 1987

I=20 agree with Carolyn that there is nothing wrong with woad blue, and = I'm sure=20 that Simeti is not a dyer, in fact, reading the 'blurb' on the book = jacket,=20 her interest seems to be Italian food!

Without getting too far into the realms = of=20 theosophy, I recommend
C.R.Dodwell 'Anglo-Saxon Art - A New=20 Perspective'

The chapters=20 on painting, sculpture and textiles give as good an insight as any = into the=20 possible Anglo-Saxon perception of = colour.

Regards,
Hazel

------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C1EA2F.D0A4AC60-- From MMagnusM@bellsouth.net Mon, 22 Apr 2002 15:55:30 -0400 Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 15:55:30 -0400 From: rmhowe MMagnusM@bellsouth.net Subject: [Regia-NA] [MedEnc] Portable easily made forge / Re: blacksmithing The most basic forge can simply be a hole in the ground with a pipe (tuyere) supplying air from beneath or beside it. Or: An easily made portable forge can be had with some basic 2" pipe fittings, an electric blower, and a cast iron brake drum. I have had three forges in my time, a brake drum forge (actually my favorite), a very large commercial Buffalo forge, and a cast iron bandsaw brazing forge in which large tongs were heated to braze huge bandsaw blades together. I sold the Bandsaw brazing forge because it got too hot to be anywhere near. I traded the full size forge eight years ago when it became impossible for me to hammer much anymore, with a few other items to make a fair trade for a milling machine/lathe combination. To make an easily transportable Brake Drum forge you need: A brake drum from a car. Larger car sizes are preferable. (Truck brake drums are huge, deep, and have huge holes.) These are found at any scrapyard. Some fire clay, and some Hydraulic cement to mix it with 50/50, obtainable at a building supply place. Something to mix it in. A plastic bucket for example. Something to trowel it in with. (Plug your blower holes first.) or Some -soft- refractory brick to cut to fit the bottom of the forge. You can cut this stuff with a hacksaw. If your local brickyard/home supply place doesn't have it try a pottery supply store. You also need a set of -2"- (preferable) or 1 1/2" pipes: A pipe flange for the bottom of the brake drum, where the hole is. In my case I scrounged around and found an old cast iron gear to put over this. The center of the gear had a one inch hole in it and I drilled the outside of the gear with a number of 3/8" holes at an angle tapering to the center to create a focused air blast a few inches above the gear. This is where you obtain maximum heat. You could also use a cast iron drain plate or some holed stainless steel to help cover the hole in the bottom of the Brake drum over the 2" pipe, which is large enough to allow chunks of coal/coke/clinker to drop down it. Ordinary steel will burn through because of the carbon in it. Cast Iron won't burn easily and stainless would have to melt. To drill stainless steel you will need to buy or borrow a cobalt steel (some say C or M42) drill bit. Rest of pipes: 2 six inch long threaded pipe nipples to screw above and below a 'T' connector. The upper one screws into the flange. The lower one screw into the Pipe cap or oil drum cap. An oil drum cap to screw on the bottom of the bottom 6" nipple to function as a clean out. I used a piece of strap steel bolted to the cap with a counterweight to simply allow me to raise it with my foot to clean the pipe out. You could just stick a nail in the lock holes that are in these caps. If you can't find one you can simply use a pipe cap. You need a way to clean out the pipe either way. A foot long piece of pipe threaded at both ends. to screw horizontally into the 'T" fitting to connect it to the blower. Some bolts and nuts appropriate to what you are bolting through. A Drill and a few metal bits. A Piece of Sheet metal to make a blower cover out of. A little knob and screw. Most hardware stores have all of the above in stock. A blower: This can be a 120 volt electric blower with plug and in line switch (buy and install it in the hot side of the wire) or a 12 volt blower to hook up to your car battery with a set of alligator clamps. Or both interchangeably. In my case my initial blower had a square hole, I made a wooden block to fit the opening, screwed the block inside the square opening and drilled a hole I could thread the 1 foot long pipe into. (Alternately you could use a hair dryer, or a vacuum exhaust. They just aren't as controlable.) If you are going to be working on damp ground I recommend a three wire system hooked up to a portable GFCI or plug it to an in line GFCI, also known as a Ground Fault Circuit Interruptor. If you can't find a place to connect the green wire to on your blower, attach it to a bolt on the outside motor casing. This is so you won't get a fatal shock. If you don't know for sure what you are doing, ask an electrician or look in an electrical book. (I got my sophomore housing at college because my predecessor at the house electrocuted himself with a vacuum cord he'd dropped into a puddle he'd made washing his car mats. I am told that can be a slow way to go.) GFCI's can be had for as little as $10 or less. They only work on three wire grounded circuits with Black (hot)/ Green (Ground) / White (Neutral) wires. GFCI's cut the circuit before you can receive a fatal shock. This is what is required within six feet of water outlets in your house as well. Look in the kitchen and bathroom. They usually have a test and an on switch on them. Portable ones are $10-35. Hot black wires go to brass colored screws, White to the silver colored screw, green to the green screw or wire or to the bare wire without any insulation inside the wall box. (My wife could have easily died when someone hooked these up incorrectly and hotwired a new stove case. She did get a shock.) If you are wiring in a GFCI wallbox remember to cut the power at the main panel. Test to make sure it's off. A radio or light that is turned on will tell you when it is off if you don't have an electrical circuit tester. Northern http://www.northernstores.com/ and stove supply stores sell 120 volt blowers. So does American Scientific Supply or Surplus Supply usually. Blowers also exist within old air conditioners. These can be 120 or 240 volt in larger ones. (The problem with old air conditioners is that they also contain freon, and if you rupture a pipe getting one out you can blind yourself with the spray. I don't recommend this, but if you dig one out of one of these at the very least wear eye protection, with or without a face shield.) Getting one out can be difficult, so I recommend a different source. Call around. 12 volt blowers can be picked up at any auto scrapyard. They are used in the car heater system under the dash board. Alligator clamps may be had at Radio Shack or an auto supply place. Make sure you put the insulators back on their handles. Or put a lighter receptacle plug in instead. A blower's blast is simple to control by simply putting an egg shaped piece of metal over the intake hole with a small bolt in the small end of the egg shape to pivot on. I also put a little knob on mine opposite the pivot. Sliding it to cover or uncover the intake hole changes your airblast to the forge. When you are not heating metal switch the blower off. This saves fuel, the fire won't go out. In my case I mounted the whole thing on some old metal stool legs bolting the leg tops to the bottom of the brake drum. Basic set up: Brake drum on top, thick rim horizontal. _____________________ |_____________________| |_____ _____| | \ _ _ / |-- fire clay/cement |______|_| |_|______| infill here. '-|__|-' bolted together | | |__| | |_ Tee fitting. | |-----------| | _|-----------| to blower |____| | | | | _|__|_ (o|______|0) pipe tank cap / cleanout. Alternately you can set it up on blocks instead of putting legs under it. The blocks go on either side of the bottom of the brake drum. Mix the fire clay/hydraulic cement and cover the area inside the bowl on either side of the blower hole(s) in the bottom. Plug the holes first. Any bolting/assembly should be done before you lay your fireclay/cement. These things make an interesting place to have a cookout/party session around as well (when the wind doesn't shift your way). A hot dog can be done over wood scraps in about half a minute, or a marshmallow in about five seconds. My blower at full opening would produce a wood fire about a foot wide and four feet long. Coal/Coke is a bit more controllable. Coke is coal with the impurities burned out of it. Charcoal briquettes are easily obtained. Just get an adequate supply. That in-line switch really helps. You can obtain an in-line cord switch anywhere that sells electrical supplies. You also need a little can with holes in the bottom and a steel strap handle bolted to it to control the fire as a sprinkler. You need a water bucket anyway to quench your steel in. A piece of 5/16' iron made like a poker with a 90 degree bend at the end to pull out clinkers. Clinkers are what is left when the coal burns itself out. I bent the other end of mine to make a handle shape. This forge will get hot enough to easily burn steel up, so watch your pieces. A beginner also needs thick leather gloves, a real pair of American-made Vise-Grip pliers (trade name, better than the softer Chinese imitations) (round jaws style recommended) and a smooth faced hammer. Other hammers with crossed straight and ball peen heads will help. Any damage to the hammer face or your anvil will transfer with each blow to your piece you are working. Leather gloves will smoke before you feel the heat. Use some eye protection. Red hot steel produces scale. Hot scale or embers hurt. For a smoother finished item, brush off the scale each time with a long handled wire brush before you hammer it. Natural fiber clothes are a *lot* safer than synthetics. Steel anvils tend to ring. Cast iron kind of clunks. Cast iron anvils are a lot more prone to spalling or throwing off chuncks. Hitting it with a hammer and listening might help you find a better one. Some have steel welded to a cast iron base. A good quality anvil is about $4+ per pound. Centaur Forge is on the internet. Cheap Chinese imitations claim to be useful. I don't happen to have one. Rail Road Rail can be made into an anvil. Since I am writing this in the U.S.A. I am using electrical terms familiar to us. Your overseas wiring may be different. Master Magnus Malleus, OL © 2002 R.M. Howe *No reposting my writings to newsgroups, especially rec.org.sca, or the SCA-Universitas elist. I view this as violating copyright restrictions. As long as it's to reenactor or SCA -closed- subscriber based email lists or individuals I don't mind. It's meant to help people without aggravating me.* Inclusion, in the http://www.Florilegium.org/ as always is permitted. From kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Tue, 23 Apr 2002 01:53:34 +0100 Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 01:53:34 +0100 From: J. K. Siddorn kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] [MedEnc] Portable easily made forge / Re: blacksmithing (I got my sophomore housing at college because my predecessor at the house electrocuted himself with a vacuum cord he'd dropped into a puddle he'd made washing his car mats. I am told that can be a slow way to go.) >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> It's a lot quicker over here with 250 volt mains! Mains voltage is something you learn an early and deep respect for in the UK. However ............. When I was 14 or so, I had a fishing friend and he showed me a good way of collecting worms. Take two six inch nails, connect them to two bits of wire and push them into the ground about six feet apart. Attach a plug to the other ends of the wires and shove it in the socket. You should see those little critters come flying out of the ground! To the naive and the youngsters who might read this I will simply say this DON'T STAND IN THE GARDEN WHILST YOU TRY IT! Usual disclaimers .............. Regards, Kim Siddorn. The early bird may get the worm - but the second mouse gets the cheese! ----- Original Message ----- From: "rmhowe" To: ; "- Regia Anglorum - North America" ; "- Atlantia" Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 8:55 PM Subject: [Regia-NA] [MedEnc] Portable easily made forge / Re: blacksmithing > The most basic forge can simply be a hole in the ground with > a pipe (tuyere) supplying air from beneath or beside it. > > Or: > > An easily made portable forge can be had with some basic 2" > pipe fittings, an electric blower, and a cast iron brake drum. > > I have had three forges in my time, a brake drum forge > (actually my favorite), a very large commercial Buffalo forge, > and a cast iron bandsaw brazing forge in which large tongs > were heated to braze huge bandsaw blades together. I sold the > Bandsaw brazing forge because it got too hot to be anywhere near. > I traded the full size forge eight years ago when it became > impossible for me to hammer much anymore, with a few other > items to make a fair trade for a milling machine/lathe combination. > > To make an easily transportable Brake Drum forge you need: > > A brake drum from a car. Larger car sizes are preferable. > (Truck brake drums are huge, deep, and have huge holes.) > These are found at any scrapyard. > > Some fire clay, and some Hydraulic cement to mix it with > 50/50, obtainable at a building supply place. > Something to mix it in. A plastic bucket for example. > Something to trowel it in with. (Plug your blower holes first.) > or > Some -soft- refractory brick to cut to fit the bottom > of the forge. You can cut this stuff with a hacksaw. > If your local brickyard/home supply place doesn't have > it try a pottery supply store. > > You also need a set of -2"- (preferable) or 1 1/2" pipes: > A pipe flange for the bottom of the brake drum, where the hole is. > In my case I scrounged around and found an old cast iron > gear to put over this. The center of the gear had a one > inch hole in it and I drilled the outside of the gear with > a number of 3/8" holes at an angle tapering to the center > to create a focused air blast a few inches above the gear. > This is where you obtain maximum heat. > You could also use a cast iron drain plate or some holed > stainless steel to help cover the hole in the bottom of > the Brake drum over the 2" pipe, which is large enough to > allow chunks of coal/coke/clinker to drop down it. > Ordinary steel will burn through because of the carbon in > it. Cast Iron won't burn easily and stainless would have > to melt. To drill stainless steel you will need to buy > or borrow a cobalt steel (some say C or M42) drill bit. > > Rest of pipes: > 2 six inch long threaded pipe nipples to screw above and > below a 'T' connector. The upper one screws into the flange. > The lower one screw into the Pipe cap or oil drum cap. > An oil drum cap to screw on the bottom of the bottom 6" > nipple to function as a clean out. I used a piece of > strap steel bolted to the cap with a counterweight to > simply allow me to raise it with my foot to clean > the pipe out. You could just stick a nail in the lock > holes that are in these caps. If you can't find one > you can simply use a pipe cap. You need a way to clean > out the pipe either way. > A foot long piece of pipe threaded at both ends. > to screw horizontally into the 'T" fitting to connect > it to the blower. > > Some bolts and nuts appropriate to what you are bolting > through. > > A Drill and a few metal bits. > > A Piece of Sheet metal to make a blower cover out of. > > A little knob and screw. > > Most hardware stores have all of the above in stock. > > A blower: > This can be a 120 volt electric blower with plug and > in line switch (buy and install it in the hot side of > the wire) or a 12 volt blower to hook up to your car > battery with a set of alligator clamps. Or both interchangeably. > In my case my initial blower had a square hole, I made a > wooden block to fit the opening, screwed the block inside > the square opening and drilled a hole I could thread the > 1 foot long pipe into. (Alternately you could use a hair > dryer, or a vacuum exhaust. They just aren't as controlable.) > > If you are going to be working on damp ground I recommend a > three wire system hooked up to a portable GFCI or plug it to an > in line GFCI, also known as a Ground Fault Circuit Interruptor. > If you can't find a place to connect the green wire > to on your blower, attach it to a bolt on the outside motor casing. > This is so you won't get a fatal shock. If you don't know > for sure what you are doing, ask an electrician or look > in an electrical book. > > (I got my sophomore housing at college because my predecessor > at the house electrocuted himself with a vacuum cord he'd > dropped into a puddle he'd made washing his car mats. > I am told that can be a slow way to go.) > > GFCI's can be had for as little as $10 or less. They only > work on three wire grounded circuits with Black (hot)/ > Green (Ground) / White (Neutral) wires. GFCI's cut the > circuit before you can receive a fatal shock. This is what > is required within six feet of water outlets in your house > as well. Look in the kitchen and bathroom. They usually > have a test and an on switch on them. > Portable ones are $10-35. > > Hot black wires go to brass colored screws, White to the silver > colored screw, green to the green screw or wire or to the bare > wire without any insulation inside the wall box. > (My wife could have easily died when someone hooked these up > incorrectly and hotwired a new stove case. She did get a shock.) > If you are wiring in a GFCI wallbox remember to cut the power > at the main panel. Test to make sure it's off. A radio or light > that is turned on will tell you when it is off if you don't > have an electrical circuit tester. > > Northern http://www.northernstores.com/ > and stove supply stores sell 120 volt blowers. > So does American Scientific Supply or Surplus Supply usually. > > Blowers also exist within old air conditioners. > These can be 120 or 240 volt in larger ones. > (The problem with old air conditioners is that they > also contain freon, and if you rupture a pipe getting > one out you can blind yourself with the spray. I don't > recommend this, but if you dig one out of one of these > at the very least wear eye protection, with or without > a face shield.) Getting one out can be difficult, so > I recommend a different source. Call around. > > 12 volt blowers can be picked up at any auto scrapyard. > They are used in the car heater system under the dash > board. Alligator clamps may be had at Radio Shack or an auto > supply place. Make sure you put the insulators back on their > handles. Or put a lighter receptacle plug in instead. > > A blower's blast is simple to control by simply putting an > egg shaped piece of metal over the intake hole with > a small bolt in the small end of the egg shape to pivot > on. I also put a little knob on mine opposite the pivot. > Sliding it to cover or uncover the intake hole changes > your airblast to the forge. > > When you are not heating metal switch the blower off. > This saves fuel, the fire won't go out. > > In my case I mounted the whole thing on some old metal stool > legs bolting the leg tops to the bottom of the brake drum. > > Basic set up: > Brake drum on top, thick rim horizontal. > _____________________ > |_____________________| > |_____ _____| > | \ _ _ / |-- fire clay/cement > |______|_| |_|______| infill here. > '-|__|-' bolted together > | | > |__| > | |_ Tee fitting. > | |-----------| > | _|-----------| to blower > |____| > | | > | | > _|__|_ > (o|______|0) pipe tank cap / cleanout. > > Alternately you can set it up on blocks instead of putting > legs under it. The blocks go on either side of the bottom > of the brake drum. Mix the fire clay/hydraulic cement > and cover the area inside the bowl on either side > of the blower hole(s) in the bottom. Plug the holes > first. Any bolting/assembly should be done before > you lay your fireclay/cement. > > These things make an interesting place to have a > cookout/party session around as well (when the wind > doesn't shift your way). A hot dog can be done > over wood scraps in about half a minute, or a > marshmallow in about five seconds. My blower at > full opening would produce a wood fire about a > foot wide and four feet long. Coal/Coke is a bit > more controllable. Coke is coal with the impurities > burned out of it. Charcoal briquettes are easily > obtained. Just get an adequate supply. > > That in-line switch really helps. > You can obtain an in-line cord switch anywhere > that sells electrical supplies. > > You also need a little can with holes in the bottom > and a steel strap handle bolted to it to control > the fire as a sprinkler. You need a water bucket > anyway to quench your steel in. > A piece of 5/16' iron made like a poker with a 90 > degree bend at the end to pull out clinkers. > Clinkers are what is left when the coal burns itself > out. I bent the other end of mine to make a handle shape. > > This forge will get hot enough to easily burn steel up, > so watch your pieces. A beginner also needs thick leather > gloves, a real pair of American-made Vise-Grip pliers > (trade name, better than the softer Chinese imitations) > (round jaws style recommended) and a smooth faced hammer. > Other hammers with crossed straight and ball peen heads > will help. Any damage to the hammer face or your anvil > will transfer with each blow to your piece you are working. > Leather gloves will smoke before you feel the heat. > > Use some eye protection. Red hot steel produces scale. > Hot scale or embers hurt. For a smoother finished item, > brush off the scale each time with a long handled wire > brush before you hammer it. Natural fiber clothes are a > *lot* safer than synthetics. > > Steel anvils tend to ring. Cast iron kind of clunks. > Cast iron anvils are a lot more prone to spalling or > throwing off chuncks. Hitting it with a hammer and listening > might help you find a better one. Some have steel welded > to a cast iron base. A good quality anvil is about $4+ > per pound. Centaur Forge is on the internet. Cheap > Chinese imitations claim to be useful. I don't happen to > have one. Rail Road Rail can be made into an anvil. > > Since I am writing this in the U.S.A. I am using electrical > terms familiar to us. Your overseas wiring may be different. > > Master Magnus Malleus, OL © 2002 R.M. Howe > *No reposting my writings to newsgroups, especially rec.org.sca, > or the SCA-Universitas elist. I view this as violating copyright > restrictions. As long as it's to reenactor or SCA -closed- > subscriber based email lists or individuals I don't mind. It's > meant to help people without aggravating me.* Inclusion, in the > http://www.Florilegium.org/ as always is permitted. > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > From kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Tue, 23 Apr 2002 02:02:15 +0100 Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 02:02:15 +0100 From: J. K. Siddorn kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] [MedEnc] Portable easily made forge / Re: blacksmithing Hi Magnus, This should find a corner in Chronicle next time around. If it;'s OK with you, I'll add some parts where voltages/ suppliers are different in the UK. These I'll render in a different font. You might enjoy this newsgroup and there are other similar ones in the States too. http://www.newsgate.co.uk/uk/uk.rec.engines.stationary/index.html Regards, Kim Siddorn. The early bird may get the worm - but the second mouse gets the cheese! ----- Original Message ----- From: "rmhowe" To: ; "- Regia Anglorum - North America" ; "- Atlantia" Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 8:55 PM Subject: [Regia-NA] [MedEnc] Portable easily made forge / Re: blacksmithing > The most basic forge can simply be a hole in the ground with > a pipe (tuyere) supplying air from beneath or beside it. > > Or: > > An easily made portable forge can be had with some basic 2" > pipe fittings, an electric blower, and a cast iron brake drum. > > I have had three forges in my time, a brake drum forge > (actually my favorite), a very large commercial Buffalo forge, > and a cast iron bandsaw brazing forge in which large tongs > were heated to braze huge bandsaw blades together. I sold the > Bandsaw brazing forge because it got too hot to be anywhere near. > I traded the full size forge eight years ago when it became > impossible for me to hammer much anymore, with a few other > items to make a fair trade for a milling machine/lathe combination. > > To make an easily transportable Brake Drum forge you need: > > A brake drum from a car. Larger car sizes are preferable. > (Truck brake drums are huge, deep, and have huge holes.) > These are found at any scrapyard. > > Some fire clay, and some Hydraulic cement to mix it with > 50/50, obtainable at a building supply place. > Something to mix it in. A plastic bucket for example. > Something to trowel it in with. (Plug your blower holes first.) > or > Some -soft- refractory brick to cut to fit the bottom > of the forge. You can cut this stuff with a hacksaw. > If your local brickyard/home supply place doesn't have > it try a pottery supply store. > > You also need a set of -2"- (preferable) or 1 1/2" pipes: > A pipe flange for the bottom of the brake drum, where the hole is. > In my case I scrounged around and found an old cast iron > gear to put over this. The center of the gear had a one > inch hole in it and I drilled the outside of the gear with > a number of 3/8" holes at an angle tapering to the center > to create a focused air blast a few inches above the gear. > This is where you obtain maximum heat. > You could also use a cast iron drain plate or some holed > stainless steel to help cover the hole in the bottom of > the Brake drum over the 2" pipe, which is large enough to > allow chunks of coal/coke/clinker to drop down it. > Ordinary steel will burn through because of the carbon in > it. Cast Iron won't burn easily and stainless would have > to melt. To drill stainless steel you will need to buy > or borrow a cobalt steel (some say C or M42) drill bit. > > Rest of pipes: > 2 six inch long threaded pipe nipples to screw above and > below a 'T' connector. The upper one screws into the flange. > The lower one screw into the Pipe cap or oil drum cap. > An oil drum cap to screw on the bottom of the bottom 6" > nipple to function as a clean out. I used a piece of > strap steel bolted to the cap with a counterweight to > simply allow me to raise it with my foot to clean > the pipe out. You could just stick a nail in the lock > holes that are in these caps. If you can't find one > you can simply use a pipe cap. You need a way to clean > out the pipe either way. > A foot long piece of pipe threaded at both ends. > to screw horizontally into the 'T" fitting to connect > it to the blower. > > Some bolts and nuts appropriate to what you are bolting > through. > > A Drill and a few metal bits. > > A Piece of Sheet metal to make a blower cover out of. > > A little knob and screw. > > Most hardware stores have all of the above in stock. > > A blower: > This can be a 120 volt electric blower with plug and > in line switch (buy and install it in the hot side of > the wire) or a 12 volt blower to hook up to your car > battery with a set of alligator clamps. Or both interchangeably. > In my case my initial blower had a square hole, I made a > wooden block to fit the opening, screwed the block inside > the square opening and drilled a hole I could thread the > 1 foot long pipe into. (Alternately you could use a hair > dryer, or a vacuum exhaust. They just aren't as controlable.) > > If you are going to be working on damp ground I recommend a > three wire system hooked up to a portable GFCI or plug it to an > in line GFCI, also known as a Ground Fault Circuit Interruptor. > If you can't find a place to connect the green wire > to on your blower, attach it to a bolt on the outside motor casing. > This is so you won't get a fatal shock. If you don't know > for sure what you are doing, ask an electrician or look > in an electrical book. > > (I got my sophomore housing at college because my predecessor > at the house electrocuted himself with a vacuum cord he'd > dropped into a puddle he'd made washing his car mats. > I am told that can be a slow way to go.) > > GFCI's can be had for as little as $10 or less. They only > work on three wire grounded circuits with Black (hot)/ > Green (Ground) / White (Neutral) wires. GFCI's cut the > circuit before you can receive a fatal shock. This is what > is required within six feet of water outlets in your house > as well. Look in the kitchen and bathroom. They usually > have a test and an on switch on them. > Portable ones are $10-35. > > Hot black wires go to brass colored screws, White to the silver > colored screw, green to the green screw or wire or to the bare > wire without any insulation inside the wall box. > (My wife could have easily died when someone hooked these up > incorrectly and hotwired a new stove case. She did get a shock.) > If you are wiring in a GFCI wallbox remember to cut the power > at the main panel. Test to make sure it's off. A radio or light > that is turned on will tell you when it is off if you don't > have an electrical circuit tester. > > Northern http://www.northernstores.com/ > and stove supply stores sell 120 volt blowers. > So does American Scientific Supply or Surplus Supply usually. > > Blowers also exist within old air conditioners. > These can be 120 or 240 volt in larger ones. > (The problem with old air conditioners is that they > also contain freon, and if you rupture a pipe getting > one out you can blind yourself with the spray. I don't > recommend this, but if you dig one out of one of these > at the very least wear eye protection, with or without > a face shield.) Getting one out can be difficult, so > I recommend a different source. Call around. > > 12 volt blowers can be picked up at any auto scrapyard. > They are used in the car heater system under the dash > board. Alligator clamps may be had at Radio Shack or an auto > supply place. Make sure you put the insulators back on their > handles. Or put a lighter receptacle plug in instead. > > A blower's blast is simple to control by simply putting an > egg shaped piece of metal over the intake hole with > a small bolt in the small end of the egg shape to pivot > on. I also put a little knob on mine opposite the pivot. > Sliding it to cover or uncover the intake hole changes > your airblast to the forge. > > When you are not heating metal switch the blower off. > This saves fuel, the fire won't go out. > > In my case I mounted the whole thing on some old metal stool > legs bolting the leg tops to the bottom of the brake drum. > > Basic set up: > Brake drum on top, thick rim horizontal. > _____________________ > |_____________________| > |_____ _____| > | \ _ _ / |-- fire clay/cement > |______|_| |_|______| infill here. > '-|__|-' bolted together > | | > |__| > | |_ Tee fitting. > | |-----------| > | _|-----------| to blower > |____| > | | > | | > _|__|_ > (o|______|0) pipe tank cap / cleanout. > > Alternately you can set it up on blocks instead of putting > legs under it. The blocks go on either side of the bottom > of the brake drum. Mix the fire clay/hydraulic cement > and cover the area inside the bowl on either side > of the blower hole(s) in the bottom. Plug the holes > first. Any bolting/assembly should be done before > you lay your fireclay/cement. > > These things make an interesting place to have a > cookout/party session around as well (when the wind > doesn't shift your way). A hot dog can be done > over wood scraps in about half a minute, or a > marshmallow in about five seconds. My blower at > full opening would produce a wood fire about a > foot wide and four feet long. Coal/Coke is a bit > more controllable. Coke is coal with the impurities > burned out of it. Charcoal briquettes are easily > obtained. Just get an adequate supply. > > That in-line switch really helps. > You can obtain an in-line cord switch anywhere > that sells electrical supplies. > > You also need a little can with holes in the bottom > and a steel strap handle bolted to it to control > the fire as a sprinkler. You need a water bucket > anyway to quench your steel in. > A piece of 5/16' iron made like a poker with a 90 > degree bend at the end to pull out clinkers. > Clinkers are what is left when the coal burns itself > out. I bent the other end of mine to make a handle shape. > > This forge will get hot enough to easily burn steel up, > so watch your pieces. A beginner also needs thick leather > gloves, a real pair of American-made Vise-Grip pliers > (trade name, better than the softer Chinese imitations) > (round jaws style recommended) and a smooth faced hammer. > Other hammers with crossed straight and ball peen heads > will help. Any damage to the hammer face or your anvil > will transfer with each blow to your piece you are working. > Leather gloves will smoke before you feel the heat. > > Use some eye protection. Red hot steel produces scale. > Hot scale or embers hurt. For a smoother finished item, > brush off the scale each time with a long handled wire > brush before you hammer it. Natural fiber clothes are a > *lot* safer than synthetics. > > Steel anvils tend to ring. Cast iron kind of clunks. > Cast iron anvils are a lot more prone to spalling or > throwing off chuncks. Hitting it with a hammer and listening > might help you find a better one. Some have steel welded > to a cast iron base. A good quality anvil is about $4+ > per pound. Centaur Forge is on the internet. Cheap > Chinese imitations claim to be useful. I don't happen to > have one. Rail Road Rail can be made into an anvil. > > Since I am writing this in the U.S.A. I am using electrical > terms familiar to us. Your overseas wiring may be different. > > Master Magnus Malleus, OL © 2002 R.M. Howe > *No reposting my writings to newsgroups, especially rec.org.sca, > or the SCA-Universitas elist. I view this as violating copyright > restrictions. As long as it's to reenactor or SCA -closed- > subscriber based email lists or individuals I don't mind. It's > meant to help people without aggravating me.* Inclusion, in the > http://www.Florilegium.org/ as always is permitted. > _______________________________________________ > list-regia-na mailing list > list-regia-na@lig.net > http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na > From dsunlin@hotmail.com Tue, 23 Apr 2002 09:24:06 -0700 Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 09:24:06 -0700 From: Douglas Sunlin dsunlin@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] [MedEnc] Portable easily made forge / Re: blacksmithing Yes, I have seen the blowers made from old hair dryers or vaccum cleaners. <><><> <><><> <><><> >From: rmhowe >Reply-To: list-regia-na@lig.net >To: "- MedievalEncampments@yahoogroups.com" >, - Regia Anglorum - North America >, - Atlantia >Subject: [Regia-NA] [MedEnc] Portable easily made forge / Re: blacksmithing >Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 15:55:30 -0400 > >The most basic forge can simply be a hole in the ground with >a pipe (tuyere) supplying air from beneath or beside it. > >Or: > >An easily made portable forge can be had with some basic 2" >pipe fittings, an electric blower, and a cast iron brake drum. > <><><> <><><> <><><> Beoð ge gesunde, Oswald of Baldurstrand http://groups.yahoo.com/group/California_Viking_Age http://www.geocities.com/baldurstrand/ _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From CRMayhew@hotmail.com Tue, 23 Apr 2002 17:28:58 -0400 Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 17:28:58 -0400 From: Charlotte Mayhew CRMayhew@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Spindles This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0040_01C1EAEC.59B4FF20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Throughout Europe, I've only ever heard of the Icelanders using = top-whorl drop spindles. Everywhere else they seem to be bottom-whorl. At least the ones I've = seen. Interesting... ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Hazel Uzzell=20 To: Regia NA ; Regia E-Group=20 Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 4:07 AM Subject: [Regia-NA] Spindles I have had a request from another group, and I wonder if anyone can = help. Has anyone got any information on 'top weighted' drop spindles in use = in Wales? I assume in the Early Medieval period. Thanks, Hazel. ------=_NextPart_000_0040_01C1EAEC.59B4FF20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Throughout Europe, I've only ever heard = of the=20 Icelanders using top-whorl drop spindles.

Everywhere else they seem to be = bottom-whorl. =20 At least the ones I've seen.

Interesting...

----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Hazel Uzzell
To: Regia NA ; Regia=20 E-Group

Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 = 4:07=20 AM

Subject: [Regia-NA] = Spindles

I have had a request from another = group, and I=20 wonder if anyone can help.

Has anyone got any information on = 'top weighted'=20 drop spindles in use in Wales? I assume in the Early Medieval=20 period.

Thanks,

Hazel.

------=_NextPart_000_0040_01C1EAEC.59B4FF20-- From capriest@cs.vassar.edu Tue, 23 Apr 2002 17:17:30 -0400 Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 17:17:30 -0400 From: Carolyn Priest-Dorman capriest@cs.vassar.edu Subject: [Regia-NA] Spindles Charlotte wrote: >Throughout Europe, I've only ever heard of the Icelanders using top-whorl drop spindles. >Everywhere else they seem to be bottom-whorl. At least the ones I've seen. One of the Oseberg spindles, found complete with whorl in place, was top-whorl. At least one of the Jorvik spindles had a notch carved in each end, so it could be used either way round. (And for that matter, the only info I can find so far on Icelandic top-whorl spindles seems to date to the post-Viking Age, when women were spinning for knitting. I'd be interested to hear about any evidence for Viking Age Icelandic top-whorl spindles.) But I don't know diddly about *Welsh* top-whorl spindles! Carolyn Priest-Dorman =DE=F3ra Sharptooth http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/thora.html "Never trust anything that can think for itself if you can't see where it keeps its brain."=20 -- J.K. Rowling From CRMayhew@hotmail.com Tue, 23 Apr 2002 17:57:57 -0400 Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 17:57:57 -0400 From: Charlotte Mayhew CRMayhew@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Spindles Dear Þóra-- Very interesting! I guess my spindle knowledge is shakier than I thought! I've had little luck finding actual photos...and few of them have dimensions. I'd love to know books/sources that have pictures, if you can think of them off-hand. I have a good photo of what's called an "Anglo-Saxon" whorl from a spinning book, but it does not give a scale. Looks to be soapstone or stearite, and it appears to be a wide, flat whorl, rather than a spherical one. I've noticed that top-whorl spindles generally have shorter shafts (better-weighted that way--if you really want to know why, Dirk the engineer can give you a lecture on the properties of spin). I wonder if they tend to be used in places where wood is scarce? You don't happen to know when knitting hit Iceland and Scandinavia, do you? I'm just curious... Thanks for the Oseberg and Jorvik spindle references...something to copy! --charlotte mayhew ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carolyn Priest-Dorman" To: Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 5:17 PM Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Spindles Charlotte wrote: >Throughout Europe, I've only ever heard of the Icelanders using top-whorl drop spindles. >Everywhere else they seem to be bottom-whorl. At least the ones I've seen. One of the Oseberg spindles, found complete with whorl in place, was top-whorl. At least one of the Jorvik spindles had a notch carved in each end, so it could be used either way round. (And for that matter, the only info I can find so far on Icelandic top-whorl spindles seems to date to the post-Viking Age, when women were spinning for knitting. I'd be interested to hear about any evidence for Viking Age Icelandic top-whorl spindles.) But I don't know diddly about *Welsh* top-whorl spindles! Carolyn Priest-Dorman Þóra Sharptooth http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/thora.html "Never trust anything that can think for itself if you can't see where it keeps its brain." -- J.K. Rowling _______________________________________________ list-regia-na mailing list list-regia-na@lig.net http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na From capriest@cs.vassar.edu Tue, 23 Apr 2002 17:51:11 -0400 Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 17:51:11 -0400 From: Carolyn Priest-Dorman capriest@cs.vassar.edu Subject: [Regia-NA] Spindles Charlotte wrote (semi-privately?): >I'd love to know books/sources that have pictures, if you can think of them >off-hand. Try here: http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/spindles.html I especially recommend the Grenander Nyberg article for consideration of top- versus bottom-whorl spinning. Hoffmann, _The Warp-Weighted Loom_, has photos of several Oseberg textile implements, including I think the top-weighted spindle. Walton Rogers, _Textile Production at 16-22 Coppergate_, has the Jorvik spindles, etc., and is a real goldmine for textile tools. >You don't happen to know when knitting hit Iceland and Scandinavia, do you? >I'm just curious... After Vikings. ;> (Seriously, I don't know for sure, except that it seems quite well established by the end of SCA period. I'm guessing not before the 13th or 14th century, but that's just a guess.) Carolyn Priest-Dorman =DE=F3ra Sharptooth http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/thora.html "Never trust anything that can think for itself if you can't see where it keeps its brain."=20 -- J.K. Rowling From CRMayhew@hotmail.com Tue, 23 Apr 2002 18:42:49 -0400 Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 18:42:49 -0400 From: Charlotte Mayhew CRMayhew@hotmail.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Spindles Thanks very much, Þóra! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carolyn Priest-Dorman" To: Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 5:51 PM Subject: Re: [Regia-NA] Spindles Charlotte wrote (semi-privately?): >I'd love to know books/sources that have pictures, if you can think of them >off-hand. Try here: http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/spindles.html I especially recommend the Grenander Nyberg article for consideration of top- versus bottom-whorl spinning. Hoffmann, _The Warp-Weighted Loom_, has photos of several Oseberg textile implements, including I think the top-weighted spindle. Walton Rogers, _Textile Production at 16-22 Coppergate_, has the Jorvik spindles, etc., and is a real goldmine for textile tools. >You don't happen to know when knitting hit Iceland and Scandinavia, do you? >I'm just curious... After Vikings. ;> (Seriously, I don't know for sure, except that it seems quite well established by the end of SCA period. I'm guessing not before the 13th or 14th century, but that's just a guess.) Carolyn Priest-Dorman Þóra Sharptooth http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/thora.html "Never trust anything that can think for itself if you can't see where it keeps its brain." -- J.K. Rowling _______________________________________________ list-regia-na mailing list list-regia-na@lig.net http://www.lig.net/mailman/listinfo/list-regia-na From MMagnusM@bellsouth.net Thu, 25 Apr 2002 20:17:54 -0400 Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 20:17:54 -0400 From: rmhowe MMagnusM@bellsouth.net Subject: [Regia-NA] Some good arts and music pages http://www.sca-isles.org/script.html From MMagnusM@bellsouth.net Fri, 26 Apr 2002 06:44:33 -0400 Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 06:44:33 -0400 From: rmhowe MMagnusM@bellsouth.net Subject: [Regia-NA] Glass blowing pages http://www.ecu.edu/chem/glassblowing/gb.htm From kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Fri, 26 Apr 2002 12:35:32 +0100 Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 12:35:32 +0100 From: J. K. Siddorn kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] September dates in Chronicle This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_004F_01C1ED1E.DAECAC30 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Vara has pointed out that the September dates in Chronicle are no longer = correct. I had copied these from an earlier file and both events now = have an earlier date. Instead of=20 September 14-15th. Military Odyssey, Kent County Showground, Detling. = Major event at this popular multi-period show. September 8th-15th. Largs Viking Festival. Major event for local = council. Battle on Saturday evening as usual. D/L 1263 _Which is how they appear, it should be _ September 7th-8th. Military Odyssey, Kent County Showground, Detling. = Major event at this popular multi-period show. September 1st - 9th. Largs Viking Festival. Major event for local = council. Battle on Saturday evening as usual. D/L 1263 Sorry for this error, mea culpa.............. Regards, Kim Regards, Kim Siddorn. The early bird may get the worm - but the second mouse gets the cheese!=20 ------=_NextPart_000_004F_01C1ED1E.DAECAC30 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Vara has pointed out that the September dates in = Chronicle are=20 no longer correct. I had copied these from an earlier file and both = events now=20 have an earlier date.

Instead of

September 14-15^th. Military Odyssey, Kent County = Showground,=20 Detling. Major event at this popular multi-period show.

September 8th—15th. Largs Viking Festival. Major event for = local council.=20 Battle on Saturday evening as usual. D/L 1263

_Which is how they appear, it should be _

September 7th-8th. Military Odyssey, Kent County Showground, Detling. = Major=20 event at this popular multi-period show.

September 1st - 9th. Largs Viking Festival. Major event for local = council.=20 Battle on Saturday evening as usual. D/L 1263

Sorry for this error, mea culpa..............

Regards,

Kim

Regards,

Kim Siddorn.

The early bird may get the worm -
but the second mouse gets the = cheese!=20

------=_NextPart_000_004F_01C1ED1E.DAECAC30-- From kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Fri, 26 Apr 2002 14:05:01 +0100 Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 14:05:01 +0100 From: J. K. Siddorn kim.siddorn@blueyonder.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] Interesting website This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C1ED2B.5B702F60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I could spend a lot of money here! Thanks to Magnus - again http://www.lindsaybks.com/prod/index.html Regards, Kim Siddorn. The early bird may get the worm - but the second mouse gets the cheese!=20 ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C1ED2B.5B702F60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I could spend a lot of money = here!

Thanks to Magnus - again

http://www.lindsaybks.= com/prod/index.html

Regards,

Kim Siddorn.

The early bird may get the worm -
but the second mouse gets the = cheese!=20

------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C1ED2B.5B702F60-- From gythe@snrd.freeserve.co.uk Sat, 27 Apr 2002 20:42:19 +0100 Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 20:42:19 +0100 From: Hazel Uzzell gythe@snrd.freeserve.co.uk Subject: [Regia-NA] Fw: Floors Dear all, Another request for help! Anyone know anything about proofing pottery with sour milk, or walking on reeds?? (see below) Thanks in anticipation Hazel (snip) > This all started when I was researching earthenware pottery. One > source I found said that soured milk was used to make the pottery more > waterproof . My first thought was eueew! the smell! But the more I > thought about it, the more intrigued I got, especially as a cooking list > I'm on was discussing the use of milk to break down shark meat to make it > more edible. >> I ran across references to a mixture of chalk, clay and sour milk, and > basically, what I've been trying to find is the ratios so I can make > myself (gulp!) a tile about a foot square to see what happens. Does it > smell awfully, is the other question! I am also curious what about the > milk seals the clay. > > My *other* floor question is reeds. Agecroft Hall, an early > seventeenth century manor house was dismantled in England in the twenties > and thirties, and reassmbled in Richmond, Virginia, where it is now a > museum of seventeenth century English life. They had a bundle of reeds > of about 1/4 inch (maybe 5mm.?) in diameter. The docent said that they > were spread on the floors and swept out every so often when they got > loathesome. Now this is an *extremely* familiar bit of knowledge to me, > which I never questioned (in fact Erasmus made a note in his diary about > English floorsand reeds) but I looked at the bundle of unused reeds and > saw myself as the fourth of the three stooges--'Slippy' would be my > name! I can't imagine trying to walk on a mish-mash of reeds. I have > since read that straw was used, but was wondering if you've tried reeds, > or seen them in use. > > On a personal note, and I hope I don't offend, but are you the Gythe > (the Weßestre) pictured in the Regia pages? > > Thanks for reading my muddledness! > > Elizabeth > On Fri, 26 Apr 2002 21:17:49 +0100 "Hazel Uzzell" > writes: > >I belong to an early Saxon group called Theod, and we formed > >especially to > >live in reconstructed Anglo-Saxon houses. We live in West Stow in > >Suffolk > >for anything up to 10 days at a time, and also on a reconstructed > >Anglo-Saxon farm at Jarrow in the north of England. Maybe I can help > >you > >with how the floors smell??? > >What do you want to know? > >Regards, > >Hazel > > > ________________________________________________________________ > GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! > Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! > Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: > http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. > From Marfield66@aol.com Sat, 27 Apr 2002 15:40:27 EDT Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 15:40:27 EDT From: Marfield66@aol.com Marfield66@aol.com Subject: [Regia-NA] Fw: Floors --part1_1ba.ccd80.29fc58ab_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Not specifically relating to the questions but apparently not all of the original structure of Agecroft Hall was relocated to Virginia and that is about all I know of the place. Martin F. --part1_1ba.ccd80.29fc58ab_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Not specifically relating to the questions but apparently not all of the original structure of Agecroft Hall was relocated to Virginia and that is about all I know of the place.
Martin F. --part1_1ba.ccd80.29fc58ab_boundary-- From MMagnusM@bellsouth.net Sat, 27 Apr 2002 18:55:58 -0400 Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 18:55:58 -0400 From: rmhowe MMagnusM@bellsouth.net Subject: [Regia-NA] Tablet Weaving Techniques Reprinted Peter Collingwood's Book Tablet Weaving Techniques has just been reprinted by: Robin and Russ Handweavers, Inc. 533 North Adams Street McMinnville, OR 97128 robinandruss@onlinemac.com 1-800-WEAVE-91 or (503) 472-5760 They are open M-S 8:30-5:30 PST. http://www.robinandruss.com/ I happened to find this out doing a websearch for one after seeing it at the local Textile School last nite. Checked American, English, German and Scandinavian nets. Then noticed it was by Robin and Russ and looked them up. Paperback, New, $35 U.S. Reprinted and delivered Wednesday. ***Please cut and paste into another email to forward.*** Magnus, OL, Atlantia, GDH From MMagnusM@bellsouth.net Mon, 29 Apr 2002 12:30:54 -0400 Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 12:30:54 -0400 From: rmhowe MMagnusM@bellsouth.net Subject: [Regia-NA] Experimental Archaeology http://www.grampus.co.uk/parabow/index.htm http://www.grampus.co.uk/index.htm Magnus